207 1.6 hdi codes and Eolys questions

[loafin_about]

hi all, first post here although have been reading a bit over the years.
My 207 sw 1.6 hdi (VIN VF3**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]) is currently having some intermittent missing and stalling. It all started following a service, which may or may not be related. They did overfill the oil and put 4.3 litres in rather than 3.5.
Since then there has been intermittent stalling and missing and occasional check engine light. I have since had fuel filter replaced, but the mechanic could find no cause for faults.
I have found some moisture in the main engine fuse box and a couple of fuses showed minor corrosion. I have replaced all fuses, but not box, plus cleaned and checked as many sensor wires as I can easily reach with the fault still intermittent. The oil was then fully drained and replaced with correct amount. Fault remained.
Then late last week a mechanic noticed 2 injectors were slightly loose and snugged them up. They also said the Eolys was empty and needed replacing soon but couldn't tell if dpf was blocked. Since then the car has been running great, maybe better than before the problems started, but as the fault was intermittent I am not holding my breath.
So the questions are:
1) the FAPapp says FAP additive remain 18161 – is this km, not ml? It has now dropped to something like 18040 which makes sense as I filled up between the 2 readings.
2) what should I look for in FAP to see if dpf is blocked - FAPpressure, FAPsoot, or FAPdeposit?
3) can I please be told official description of the following codes: P0001, P0409, P0606, P1166, P1471 which have all come up since the problem started. Google and this forum have given me clues, but I would like VIN specific please. the 2 mechanics and FAPapp all provided the same numbers.
4) Do you think it is electrical - corrosion of fuses, some sensor errors seem to be voltage/faulty connection, or do you think it is EGR/dpf related? I am leaning towards new fuse box as the next step if the fault returns.

Thanks!

[GiveMeABreak]

Hi Loaf

Leave this with me and I'll get something up for you shortly.

[GiveMeABreak]

Here you go, official codes as they relate to your specific engine ECU. Bear in mind that the additive quantity remaining is not physically measured. It is estimated based on injected volume into the fuel tank from when the additive counter was last reset. Some unscrupulous individuals may reset the additive counter without actually putting any additive into the tank or replacing the pouch if you have this system - just to move the car on and get rid if the vehicle. This can leave the next owner with the potential for a knackered additive pump and the DPF becoming blocked if natural regeneration is infrequent enough.

Fault Code:	P0001
Description of Fault:	Fuel flow regulator signal: Temperature of the engine ECU too high. Temperature on ECU pin too high (Fuel flow regulator track) The fault appears at the end of 500 ms
Conditions for Fault to clear:	Ignition on
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	Engine stopped Cutting of cruise control (Irreversible) Deactivation of the speed limiter Down-graded management of the fuel circuit
Symptoms:	Lack of power Exhaust smoke Starting problem
Suspect Areas:	Electrical harness Connectors High pressure fuel pump (Flow rate regulator) Engine ECU

Fault Code:	P0409
Description of Fault:	Electric EGR valve position copy signal: Valve sticking during the initialisation. Valve sticking for 8 seconds during the initialisation of the powerlatch (between switch off using the key and the ECU going to sleep) The following conditions have to be met - Consult the associated contexts for the Pcode forwarding conditions The engine coolant temperature should be between 10 and 100 ° C he battery voltage has to be between 10 and 15 volts
Conditions for Fault to clear:	Driving for 5 minutes
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	None Recorded
Symptoms:	Jerking/stalling Smoke from the exhaust Lack of power Starting problem
Suspect Areas:	Electrical harness Connector Exhaust gas recycling valve Engine ECU Fouling

Fault Code:	P0606
Description of Fault:	Injection electronic control unit: ECU internal fault. Problem internal to the injection ECU
Conditions for Fault to clear:	Ignition switched on
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	Cutting of cruise control Deactivation of the speed limiter "SERVICE" warning lamp will be lit.
Symptoms:	Jerking/stalling
Suspect Areas:	Engine ECU

Fault Code:	P1166
Description of Fault:	High pressure fuel regulation: Measured rail pressure higher than the maximum pressure. Pressure of the fuel high pressure common injection rail measured higher than the maximum pressure (for 5 seconds).
Conditions for Fault to clear:	Driving for 5 minutes
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	Engine stopped Irreversible cutting of the cruise control Deactivation of automatic mode for the electronic parking brake Deactivation of the speed limiter Warning lamp MIL will be lit.
Symptoms:	Lack of power Jerking/stalling
Suspect Areas:	Electrical harness Connectors High pressure fuel pump Fuel flow regulator Low pressure fuel circuit Fuel filter Engine ECU High pressure fuel sensor

Fault Code:	P1471
Description of Fault:	Throttle housing electrovalve control (EGR)(Principal air meter): Throttle open. Open circuit for 200 ms (Air mixer open)
Conditions for Fault to clear:	Ignition on
Downgrade Modes whilst Fault is active:	Inhibiting of the diagnostics and air flow sensor plausibility Cut of all the actuators: EGR butterfly (turbo air cooler), EGR valve and bypass butterfly (inlet air heater) in all functioning modes
Symptoms:	Lack of power Jerking/stalling Smoke from the exhaust
Suspect Areas:	Air mixer Electrical harness Connector

[loafin_about]

Here you go, official codes as they relate to your specific engine ECU. Bear in mind that the additive quantity remaining is not physically measured. It is estimated based on injected volume into the fuel tank from when the additive counter was last reset. Some unscrupulous individuals may reset the additive counter without actually putting any additive into the tank or replacing the pouch if you have this system - just to move the car on and get rid if the vehicle. This can leave the next owner with the potential for a knackered additive pump and the DPF becoming blocked if natural regeneration is infrequent enough.
SNIP

Thanks Marc!
All those codes make look towards electrics.
I'll chat to the mechanic that said the Eolys was empty and see if they did a physical inspection. I've owned the car from new (~150,000km and 12 years) and don't believe the bag has been filled/replaced before.
Cheers,
John

[GiveMeABreak]

No worries John, good luck.

[loafin_about]

The car has done around 400km since the last post - largely fine, although today it posted P1351 and has seemed bit surgey the last few days.
Looking at some of the live data I've logged I definitely think it is electrical - today I saw manifold temps of -40 C and battery volts as low 0.1 v while the car was running fine and FAP pressure ranging from 0 to 640 while car was turned off!
What exact BSM does this model have? Aesthetically, any of the 6500** look right, but do I need the 6500FH, 6500 HV or some other variant. There is a white label on the BSM but no text is legible so I don't know the original part number.
Cheers

[wheeler]

6500HW is the correct part number for this car.
Should be marked with the label 9667199780

[loafin_about]

To update. Yesterday I replaced the BSM with a new one and the electrical gremlins continue unfortunately - see screenshots from the FAP app taken 2 seconds apart - noting car is off and Airflow sensor reading changes from 17 (about ambient temp) to -40C and FAP temp changing from 201 to 452C.
Prior to, and since replacing the BSM I have had P1351 show up and return on starting if cleared. I understand this may be glow plug or glow plug sensor.
So, any thoughts on next steps to troubleshoot as it seems electrical? Would getting a Diagbox or PP reading give much more info than the FAP app?
thanks

edited to actually attach the photos!

[GiveMeABreak]

I think you've attached the same photo twice John...

[Hell Razor5543]

No Marc, they are different. The bottom 'graph' is way in the orange (second picture) when compared to the first one.

[GiveMeABreak]

To update. Yesterday I replaced the BSM with a new one and the electrical gremlins continue unfortunately - see screenshots from the FAP app taken 2 seconds apart - noting car is off and Airflow sensor reading changes from 17 (about ambient temp) to -40C and FAP temp changing from 201 to 452C.
Prior to, and since replacing the BSM I have had P1351 show up and return on starting if cleared. I understand this may be glow plug or glow plug sensor.
So, any thoughts on next steps to troubleshoot as it seems electrical? Would getting a Diagbox or PP reading give much more info than the FAP app?
thanks

edited to actually attach the photos!

Something not right there then - if these were only taken a few seconds apart with the vehicle engine not running. I can't comment on the FAP app, but I know it's not as comprehensive as Diagbox.

Re the photos, I was just looking at the data - not the graph, but regardless those readings can't be correct as nothing can cool that quickly in a few seconds John.

[Hell Razor5543]

251 degrees increase in 2 seconds? That is both impressive and worrying.

[loafin_about]

yep, and volts of 1.1v even when running? The readings are clearly false but is that because the FAP app is not as good as Diagbox, or is it because of some car wide sensor issue which also results in intermittent stalling. I thought the latter so replaced the BSM, but no joy.
Think I need to find a diagbox as the next step.
cheers

[loafin_about]

So I determined the communication settings in the FAP app were causing the faulty readings after replacing the BSM and the car has run well for around a month with no surges or stalls! I still need to fix the empty Eolys pouch which a local mechanic has physically inspected and advised is empty. The car is still regenerating well and according to the FAP app the last regeneration was 51km ago. The FAP soot load dropped from around 60% to around 2% and has since slowly climbed. The Deposits in FAP seems pretty steady at 63g. FAPpressure ranged from 0mbar to around 80mbar today depending on revs. Car has done 150,000km, mainly country km.
I have priced a replacement bag and counter reset and think it will be in the order of AUD$850 – of which parts is close to $500.
So I have these questions:
• Are those FAPpressure ranges within normal tolerance or do they indicate the DPF is already fairly clogged? I don't have access to diagbox.
• What about the 63 g – again is this a sign if clogging or is it ok?
• How urgently do I need to sort the additive/DPF - daily drive seems to be enough to get appropriate temps for regen.

Any advice or thoughts would be much appreciated.
Cheers

[GiveMeABreak]

The alert level is approximately 84g and 63g is roughly equivalent, so you are roughly three quarters through the particle filter's life before it will need deep cleaning or replacing.

As for the additive pouch being low - don't wait or you will end up with additional costs when the additive pump burns out from dry running.