Wonder if anyone can help.
My Berlingo's heater wont turn off, it will adjust hi and lo speeds
but when turned to the off position it keeps on going.
Any one know if it could be a stuck relay? if so where is the relay on old shape Berlingo?
Or any suggestions would be gladly received.
Thanks
Heater Gremlin
Moderator: RichardW
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jack.dempsey
- Posts: 116
- Joined: 05 Mar 2003, 17:57
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: BX TZD @ 250K miles (J reg),
Xantia TD @ 165K miles (R reg),
Xantia 2.1 TD (R reg)
and tow a caravan with them all (not at the same time)
When this happened on my BX (symptoms exactly the same) it was the electronic speed control module that had gone 'dicky'. This allowed a certain current through at all times axcept when the control moved to maximum at which point the full speed relay energised to supply full current to the fan. I guess there's a similar setup on your vehicle.
flugle
funny enough had the very same problem on a 2000 berlingo with a/c.
heater just keeps on blowing although in my case there was no variable control cept it run slightly faster at max posn.
I found the problem to be a short circuit transistor (1 of a pair) on the electronic motor speed controller mounted in the blower housing.
the transistor would you believe is obsolete!!! - on a then, 2.5 year old car!!! but i did find an equivelent that does the job.
if you think this matches your problem give me shout.....
dave
funny enough had the very same problem on a 2000 berlingo with a/c.
heater just keeps on blowing although in my case there was no variable control cept it run slightly faster at max posn.
I found the problem to be a short circuit transistor (1 of a pair) on the electronic motor speed controller mounted in the blower housing.
the transistor would you believe is obsolete!!! - on a then, 2.5 year old car!!! but i did find an equivelent that does the job.
if you think this matches your problem give me shout.....
dave
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jack.dempsey
- Posts: 116
- Joined: 05 Mar 2003, 17:57
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: BX TZD @ 250K miles (J reg),
Xantia TD @ 165K miles (R reg),
Xantia 2.1 TD (R reg)
and tow a caravan with them all (not at the same time)
The control unit on a BX consists of just one transistor, a small PCB and a thermistor. The unit is about the size of a packet of fags and sits in the heater ducting - quite close to the fan. The transistor is stamped up with a manufacturers number thats obviously an OEM specific number - it doesn't appear in any of the transistor equivalent charts. I've just replaced my control unit it cost £50 - gulp ! I suspect that the transistor would cost about a fiver at most, and could be easily changed by the average DIY'er.
sorry jack £2.75 for the spare .... cit wanted over £90 for new ctrllr... and i did think the cash saved was best spent on beer and unfortunately, nappies for the new addition.
like you say unless you are familiar with electronics it may somtimes prove difficult. it wasnt easy to fix as the whole thing was riveted together, poor quality and it took me a while to figure out the trannie reqd .... but hey, i wouldnt tackle a timing belt!
worst thing was the car was pretty new and the board was corroded after being located so close to the a/c water drain ... i'm sure they do these things by design...
dave
like you say unless you are familiar with electronics it may somtimes prove difficult. it wasnt easy to fix as the whole thing was riveted together, poor quality and it took me a while to figure out the trannie reqd .... but hey, i wouldnt tackle a timing belt!
worst thing was the car was pretty new and the board was corroded after being located so close to the a/c water drain ... i'm sure they do these things by design...
dave
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jack.dempsey
- Posts: 116
- Joined: 05 Mar 2003, 17:57
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: BX TZD @ 250K miles (J reg),
Xantia TD @ 165K miles (R reg),
Xantia 2.1 TD (R reg)
and tow a caravan with them all (not at the same time)
Flugle,
Silly question time!
Have you checked that the aircon (if fitted) is switched off?
On my Cav*lier, the blower motor always runs when the aircon is switched on.
I don't know whether the Berlingo has a separate switch for aircon, but if it does it's worth checking (it caught me out on my Cav!).
Hope this helps
Silly question time!
Have you checked that the aircon (if fitted) is switched off?
On my Cav*lier, the blower motor always runs when the aircon is switched on.
I don't know whether the Berlingo has a separate switch for aircon, but if it does it's worth checking (it caught me out on my Cav!).
Hope this helps
Thanks Fellas
Davey, it does sound like that, had another twiddle last night it seems to have some variation in the fan speed toward the end as you turn the dial clockwise, Do i have to dismantle the car to get at it? I'll give it go not bad at soldering etc. can it test it in situ first to see if it is faulty?
My first thought was a stuck relay? Has the blingo got a relay for the heater?,
I think this is possibly related to the other problems i had which are all in the wipers, heater, washer circuit
Its bl**dy flustrating things like when the heaters going full tilt i can remove the fuse and it keeps going until next time you start the ignition.
PS Stu,it has got aircon on a seperate switch and the air con is turned off I had to check tho!! Ta! Wouldn't be the first time Mr Stupids been playing with my car.
Davey, it does sound like that, had another twiddle last night it seems to have some variation in the fan speed toward the end as you turn the dial clockwise, Do i have to dismantle the car to get at it? I'll give it go not bad at soldering etc. can it test it in situ first to see if it is faulty?
My first thought was a stuck relay? Has the blingo got a relay for the heater?,
I think this is possibly related to the other problems i had which are all in the wipers, heater, washer circuit
Its bl**dy flustrating things like when the heaters going full tilt i can remove the fuse and it keeps going until next time you start the ignition.
PS Stu,it has got aircon on a seperate switch and the air con is turned off I had to check tho!! Ta! Wouldn't be the first time Mr Stupids been playing with my car.
flugle,
from experience with a/c on the blower does not automatically blow on the berlingo .... but the rad fans do.
it is straightfwd to get the blower assy out - passenger footwell, remove the carpety trim below dash. looking up you will see the round blower housing. remove the 5 wire multi connector from the housing and drainage hose, i think (it was a while back) there are 3 crossheads on the base of the housing (outer 3 screws) - remove and the lower part of the housing will come away the the motor and controller inside.
disconnect the thick single black/red motor pwr wires from the housing. looking inside you should see the controller with its heatsink and 2 large transistors held in by 2 hex self tappers. remove these and you have 90 quids worth in yr hand.
i think there were another 2 screws in the centre of the housing that held the motor in place, remove these and motor pulls out.
the controller looks cheap, nasty and probably rusty as its so moist in there with a/c running. keeping things simple, use a multimeter to check the resistance between all combinations of the 2 pins on base of trannie and its outer case which is the 3rd pin. the trannies are in parallel so if you have a s/c on 1 it will show on both.
let me know how u get on with that check as it would b a shame to go further if the fault not present. there is a relay on the board but is simply used when u turn blower ctrl to max - it puts max pwr to motor & reduces load on trannies. i will try and dig out part no. in meantime of equivelent.
enjoy ...
the motor
from experience with a/c on the blower does not automatically blow on the berlingo .... but the rad fans do.
it is straightfwd to get the blower assy out - passenger footwell, remove the carpety trim below dash. looking up you will see the round blower housing. remove the 5 wire multi connector from the housing and drainage hose, i think (it was a while back) there are 3 crossheads on the base of the housing (outer 3 screws) - remove and the lower part of the housing will come away the the motor and controller inside.
disconnect the thick single black/red motor pwr wires from the housing. looking inside you should see the controller with its heatsink and 2 large transistors held in by 2 hex self tappers. remove these and you have 90 quids worth in yr hand.
i think there were another 2 screws in the centre of the housing that held the motor in place, remove these and motor pulls out.
the controller looks cheap, nasty and probably rusty as its so moist in there with a/c running. keeping things simple, use a multimeter to check the resistance between all combinations of the 2 pins on base of trannie and its outer case which is the 3rd pin. the trannies are in parallel so if you have a s/c on 1 it will show on both.
let me know how u get on with that check as it would b a shame to go further if the fault not present. there is a relay on the board but is simply used when u turn blower ctrl to max - it puts max pwr to motor & reduces load on trannies. i will try and dig out part no. in meantime of equivelent.
enjoy ...
the motor
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uhn113x
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Davey and flugle
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">the controller looks cheap, nasty and probably rusty as its so moist in there with a/c running. keeping things simple, use a multimeter to check the resistance between all combinations of the 2 pins on base of trannie and its outer case which is the 3rd pin. the trannies are in parallel so if you have a s/c on 1 it will show on both.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
To clarify, you should read a few hundred ohms one way between the two transistor leads, no reading the other way. If the transistor is short-circuit there will be a reading of only a few ohms between the case and one lead, both ways.
A definitive check would be to short the two leads together with the blower on - the transistor should turn off and blower should stop. If not, transistor is short circuit.
Can I make a plea that folk do not post in text-speak? It must make difficult reading for those for whom English is not their native language! It <b>is</b> mine, and I have problems reading some posts, but not as bad as some forums - I have given up on the Car Mechanics one as 50% of posts are totally unintelligible[:D][:D]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">the controller looks cheap, nasty and probably rusty as its so moist in there with a/c running. keeping things simple, use a multimeter to check the resistance between all combinations of the 2 pins on base of trannie and its outer case which is the 3rd pin. the trannies are in parallel so if you have a s/c on 1 it will show on both.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
To clarify, you should read a few hundred ohms one way between the two transistor leads, no reading the other way. If the transistor is short-circuit there will be a reading of only a few ohms between the case and one lead, both ways.
A definitive check would be to short the two leads together with the blower on - the transistor should turn off and blower should stop. If not, transistor is short circuit.
Can I make a plea that folk do not post in text-speak? It must make difficult reading for those for whom English is not their native language! It <b>is</b> mine, and I have problems reading some posts, but not as bad as some forums - I have given up on the Car Mechanics one as 50% of posts are totally unintelligible[:D][:D]
flugle
ref last be carefull about shorting bits together in there, for a couple of reason one because of close proximty of blower u may not need to cut yr finger nails for a while and second on the board is some fancy suface mount electronics potted in resin that are not repairable of u touch the wrong part with the cct live....endex.
uhn ...yes i know all about base, emitter, collector resistances and barrier volts but i'm keeping things as simple as poss because flugle may no know what i'm on about so why confuse the issue.
as an electronics engineer from birth i dont like boring the pants of people with excessive technical guff .... if it has failed short cct the reading will be virtually zero because the motor is drawing probably upto 10 or so amps thru it.
political correctness.. what horses**t. flugle is askin for help, and i offered some. if he is happy with the advice then excellent if yr not then too bad.....
sorry but there r too many whingers & do gooders in this world that get on my t*ts. it also doesnt help throwin in boldface and exclamation marks when only offerin help....
right, now i can get back to my bottle of beer and clean the babys puke of my shoulder .. and that reminds me, anyone know any good tips for gettin baby puke outta berlingo back seats?
ref last be carefull about shorting bits together in there, for a couple of reason one because of close proximty of blower u may not need to cut yr finger nails for a while and second on the board is some fancy suface mount electronics potted in resin that are not repairable of u touch the wrong part with the cct live....endex.
uhn ...yes i know all about base, emitter, collector resistances and barrier volts but i'm keeping things as simple as poss because flugle may no know what i'm on about so why confuse the issue.
as an electronics engineer from birth i dont like boring the pants of people with excessive technical guff .... if it has failed short cct the reading will be virtually zero because the motor is drawing probably upto 10 or so amps thru it.
political correctness.. what horses**t. flugle is askin for help, and i offered some. if he is happy with the advice then excellent if yr not then too bad.....
sorry but there r too many whingers & do gooders in this world that get on my t*ts. it also doesnt help throwin in boldface and exclamation marks when only offerin help....
right, now i can get back to my bottle of beer and clean the babys puke of my shoulder .. and that reminds me, anyone know any good tips for gettin baby puke outta berlingo back seats?
hold on here folks
i was all for getting this motor half out and i'd already made up two crockadile? clips ready for shorting ...
I know a little knowlege is dangerous.. but!!
should I just bite the bullet and pay Mr.C his dues for blindly designing my motor?
I don't want you to spat over this
and i dont want to blow my self up
please help!
i was all for getting this motor half out and i'd already made up two crockadile? clips ready for shorting ...
I know a little knowlege is dangerous.. but!!
should I just bite the bullet and pay Mr.C his dues for blindly designing my motor?
I don't want you to spat over this
and i dont want to blow my self up
please help!
flugle,
stop yr worryin... a little difference is good thing now & again.
mike is right in what he says about the pin shorting test with the whole lot running ... get the blower assy out and have a look and you will see what i mean about the awkwardness, you will have all the guts danglin from under your dash whilst trying to attach croc clips on tiny blobs of solder.
it is straightfwd to measure the resistance with a meter and easier as u can do no wrong.
it is a bit fiddly to repair (if u find it to be faulty) but worth it as the repair was so cheap and the replacement part i put in was better suited for the job.
see what u think when u get it out and shout if u need more help
stop yr worryin... a little difference is good thing now & again.
mike is right in what he says about the pin shorting test with the whole lot running ... get the blower assy out and have a look and you will see what i mean about the awkwardness, you will have all the guts danglin from under your dash whilst trying to attach croc clips on tiny blobs of solder.
it is straightfwd to measure the resistance with a meter and easier as u can do no wrong.
it is a bit fiddly to repair (if u find it to be faulty) but worth it as the repair was so cheap and the replacement part i put in was better suited for the job.
see what u think when u get it out and shout if u need more help