After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

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joydivision
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After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by joydivision »

Hi!

I bought a 406 Break (2.1TD from 11/1997), as I had to change my car (due to work I have to take care of over the next months and also I've got two kids, so my previous car was really needing an upgrade in terms of space, and this one has LOTS of it). I've always liked the 406 (a friend of mine owned one, years ago), but hadn't met the TD (XUD) motor yet, only the HDI. Then this car came up and I bought it, it was cheap and has little mileage. I traveled quite some miles by bus to get it, as here where I live I couldn't find anything at a good price. When I tested it, I was really paying attention and had myself prepared (I've bought used cars before, and have some knowledge in mechanics and quite more in electronics, but still I'm not a mechanic), I did notice some little things which were not obvious, but I was quite convinced and bought it. I obviously couldn’t spot the hidden ones, though. The trip back home went fine, the motor seemed a little "slow", probably due to carbon build-up not having been driven well for a long time (was used for small daily trips) and maybe not having been taken care of that well. Just with the trip it became much more responsive, though. I then took it to a mechanic I trust and asked him to do the obvious stuff (oil change, coolant change, fuel filter, air filter) and also decided to do the timing belt. Turned out my insticts were right, the timing belt would have had 20 years and could have broken on the trip home, so much for the words of the seller: "the owner made all the normal maintenance". If leaving a timing belt for 20 years is normal, then I don't know... The mechanic unfortunately also noticed that the auxiliary belt hadn't been changed, either, and a few associated components were damaged (a roller, and a kind of spring, which was making a heck of a noise which I noticed but thought had to do with some plastic near the wipers). So, the bill was raising. Then he found a pipe that goes over the motor (it's metal) which was completely in bad shape, unfortunately costs around 100 euros... all together ended up almost 800 euros... but the car is running really well now, the 109 HP are clearly there, it pushes very nicely and sounds great, lots of torque. Just what I need. Also seems to be quite economic. Despite the age (and the less careful maintenance), I think I've got myself a nice car, I really like to drive it. The interior also is in a nice shape. The exterior it has some defects in paint, nothing really serious, except for a few spots of corrosion, but again not critical, all on a superficial level. Still, I will have to take care of them sometime in the future. Right now I've got other priorities - besides the 800 euros already spent, turns out the A/C wasn't repaired correctly (seller had changed the compressor on his expenses, and the system was working, but then stopped working, seems to have a leak) and also I've discovered quite a lot of really annoying small electrical problems since then, which I'm determined to fix, as I've got knowledge and experience in electronics, but I'm struggling a bit, although I already got myself a Haynes manual for this car and found a lot on the internet, but seems there have been like almost half a dozen different versions of the 406, at least what concerns the electrical systems... So, I came to this place (and a few others) to share my adventure with this nice estate and also seek some help from the more experienced. All in all I hope that this car will make still a lot of miles with me and my family and serve me well for the task I have on hands over the next months. Here are some photos. I will open several separate threads for the most important issues I'm in the process of solving. But this is going to be the working thread - I'm going to check the list here of issues to solve. Hopefully it won't be long until I have it all sorted out. Then in the future, if the car behaves well and I have more time, I might well decide to restore it in terms of paint and some other details. Let's see.
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white exec
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by white exec »

Hi, and welcome.

You might find a certain gent called Peter here, who has a very soft spot for both the 406 and 2.1td (lots of them, in fact).
A great first post, so we look forward to more, and hope you'll pick up some answers along the way.
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moizeau
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by moizeau »

Welcome, I'm not 'Peter' but also have a soft spot for the 406 and the 2.1. Over 30mph it's like an auto, just leave in 5th and enjoy. I'd have still been driving mine but the sills collapsed. It was sat out the back for 3 years, put a battery on it, primed it and it started straight up.
Hope you get everything sorted.
The fact that the aux belt tensioner was knackered was probably due to age but just to be sure have a wipe round the fuel injection pump underneath to make sure it's not leaking. If it does the diesel pools near the tensioner pivot.
Good luck
joydivision
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by joydivision »

Thanks for the warm welcome :)

Will certainly look out for Peter, would be nice and interesting to talk to him on here.

Thanks also for the hint about the aux belt tensioner. I suspect this originally had one of these "infamous" Lucas pumps, but it now has a Bosch, which is great (and it's not leaking for as far I can see). So maybe it was in fact caused by leaking, when it still had a Lucas. But that's just me speculating.

So, after having taken care of the important and urgent maintenance in motor, as already mentioned, done very well by a mechanic a trust, here's the list of things to get done mostly by myself (it unfortunately might grow - I'm still discovering little hidden "nightmares" - seems that the car despite its good mechanic shape, little mileage and well cared interior, has been serviced with too much of improvisation and too little real fixes...). I will regularly come back here and edit when I fixed one:

- NOT FIXED!: A/C is not working (compressor engages if I fool the system bridging pressure switch, but no cold air, still have to check if there's any gas in system left, suspect it's a leak, as the seller promised to make it work and did, by installing a working compressor and charging it, but a week later it wasn't working anymore). This one I won't do myself, don't have the equipment or access to the gas, still have to find someone to do this...
Had this done by a garage specialized in A/C systems, and they did a good, quick and cheap work - the system now seems to work perfectly. Although first impression was that it wasn't that cold, using a lower blower speed and recirculation mode it gets really cold. And it seems to improve with usage, I guess this confirms what I've read, A/C wants to be used (seals itself, etc...). Mechanic said it must have been incorrectly charged or might have a really small leak, having been charged insufficiently, then it would have lost a little gas and stopped working. Let's see. If it needs charging once a year, that would be fine for me. I'm so glad the system works, I was really worried that some component could have suffered damage... UPDATE: Compressor is leaky. Going to get a new compressor.

- FIXED: Blower motor only works on high speed. This is caused by faulty controller module (so called resistor, it's not a resistor). I just bought new one (unfortunately before taking out the motor - turns out the motor is different, has control module on board... now two options: repair or replace on board module or rewire with new module (found pinout looking at a video of a Megane - uses same module). But there's one more scary issue: there's a wiring hack that was made - the original power cables for blower were cut and the cables were connected to other thinner cable. Scares me a little to drive that powerful motor on such small cables... :( also don't know if they work for the control module. Have to check all this. Maybe rewire. This is important, as I want to have the A/C fixed... (might open separate thread in correct section with photos). Was an unconnected cable! Someone installed a motor from a Xantia and didn't wire it totally well... I will open separate thread, as I learned some valuable info.

- FIXED PARTIALLY: Electric mirror control was not working. Took control switch out and dismantled it - was fully oxidised, cleaned it, good as new (will post photos when I can, don't have them right now). Still wouldn't work. Took out one mirror - turns out they DISCONNECTED the wiring. Connected it - woha! That's strange, now driver's mirror would go crazy when turning ignition on. After that, manual electric control would work nicely, still only on driver's side. Discovered they are linked to memory function of electric seats (ECU under driver seat). Don't have time or expertise to mess with such ECU. SO: installed a quick hack which made at least drivers mirror be adjustable: a button installed in plastic triangle cover of mirror allows disconnecting the control, so that you can have it off by default (no more crazy movement when starting the car), but when car is running, you can engage the control, adjust the mirror as you want, and turn the switch back off. Works great! No luck for passenger mirror, seems they disconnected it somewhere else! Anyone knows if there's additional connectors? Maybe in door? Seems there is no power getting there. So, I still have to fix passenger mirror... (might open separate thread in correct section with photos).

- TO DO (POSTPONED): RPM gauge in instruments cluster is not working. For economic driving (and safe acceleration) it's useful and I really like it, so I have to fix that. Might be just a bad connection. Now also the speedo is sticking sometimes, have to get this fixed. Took instrument cluster apart, did all recommended maintenance/repair (resoldering, bending and cleaning pins for needle meters for better connection, even soldered wires instead of flex cable, measure all, to no avail...). Speedo seems to be fixed, I found out about the Bitron and resoldered it. Will leave the RPM gauge problem for later.

- IS BEING FIXED: exterior temperature indication not working (shows three dashes) - might be the sensor, as it's in passenger mirror and that's the mirror that's still not working. One question: does anyone here know if that temperature measurement is really of any importance for the A/C control? this one has automatic control with temperature adjustment. if it's of any importance, then this is of higher priority, as I need A/C. I'm also not sure if the is only a multifunction display for temperature and radio of if it's the trip computer (then it's not working - or it doesn't have the button on command switch on steering wheel column).
Turns out the mirror wiring connector was "configured" to not connect correctly - the grey part was pushed down so the pins would not engage. Now it displays a temperature, but it's wrong. I installed a potentiometer in series and adjusted, now it shows correct temp, but I think it's probably lost correct linearity like this, I'll have to test with lower and higher temperatures... I suppose the sensor is wrong (it appears to be working, measured its resistance and it varies correctly and is stable), as the mirror is not original (has too much wires).

- FIXED: multi function display and clock have no back light - install new bulbs. Turns out at least the clock it wasn't the bulb, was a broken bulb holder, so I soldered wires to bulb. Works! MFD display really had the bulbs blown.

- PARTIALLY DONE: change the radio for aftermarket Sony with CD which I had here - the original is only cassette. Did the change today, bought the nice adapter frame and correct wiring adapter. Nice job, BUT: speakers in front doors sounding distorted and in rear no sound at all (maybe no speakers installed? have to check). Tested the radio with known good speaker and it's fine on all 4 output channels. Will take speakers out of doors to inspect them but probably need new speakers... tweeters sound fine, fortunately.

- FIXED?: locks of the doors where "spinning freely" sometimes when you try to lock/unlock - followed advice on internet, sprayed WD-40 inside, they stopped doing it. They did it again, arghh! But it's rare. Might be a worn key?

- PARTIALLY FIXED: Hood mostly doesn't open correctly (gets stuck on right safety hook, which is stupidly annoying and really tough to get past sometimes!). First thought it would only need lubrification, but no, found a broken spring. Installed a different spring I had lying around here, seems to work, but still needs some improvement (sometimes the spring falls down).

- TO BE FIXED SOON: another one with the hood - after staying 5 days at the workshop for timing belt and all (probably hood open all the time), the gas cylinders that hold the hood open gave up their ghost - they are leaking oil and hood doesn't stay up for more than 2 seconds... ordered a set of new ones from EBay cheap, but they will take at least 2 weeks to arrive... so annoying!!

- FIXED: drivers electric window elevator works, but the automatic mode is gone, and when closing the window, it goes in steps, you have to press button like a half a dozen times to get it up - I suppose that would be a fault in the button? Checked with local parts store - this one is a rare version which they don't have aftermarket, only original, which costs 40 euros :O :O, so for now it stays like this, but I might try to repair the switch (which is a gamble, sometimes that can go wrong and then I can't operate the window!!) or maybe I can find a cheaper one on EBay. Or is it NOT the switch? If anyone knows this problem, would be helpful. Was not the switch, only needed a reset!

- MAYBE/OR MAYBE NOT: electric sunroof doesn't work - no response at all. Might just be a fuse or connection. Not a priority. Had a look at the wiring - it is disconnected. Having read about the complexity of the mech and the problems with leaky sunroofs, I don't have the courage to open this can of worm - it looks exactly like the mirrors, someone disconnected the wiring on purpose because it wouldn't work and was too hard (or expensive) to fix. Imagine I connect them and the sunroof opens alone and doesn't close anymore! I think I can live without it working.

- LATER (for the mechanic): small oil leak behind the motor somewhere close to the turbo, hard to get to. Only drops very slowly (I'm checking oil level often!), so not really a problem (except for the environment :( ) , but maybe a problem when it will go to inspection (MOT you call it? here it's annual inspection).

- LATER (for the mechanic): rear brake discs are worn (didn't spot that one when I bought it), that's why the handbrake even fully adjusted to maximum has to be pushed hard to secure the car well on a hill...I always leave it in gear therefore.

- MUCH LATER: there are a few small corrosion spots on exterior paintwork. For now I won't invest in new paint for these panels, but I might look for a way of at least stopping the corrosion. Ideas welcome (might open separate thread in correct section with photos).

- WON'T FIX: on cold start, this car has to be "tricked" or "helped" or whatever you want to call it. Discovered this solution on the internet, seems to be related with the Bosch pump, and it's a great tip because solves the problem I only discovered when I got home and started the next day: without the trick, it has a hard time to get started on cold start - more than 10 seconds, then white smoke and rough idle, might even cut out again. On warm start never fails, turns on in 1 second. I searched this on the net and found out that this means cold start fuel advance correction is not working (or not implemented? Bosch swap?), but an easy trick solves this: just press throttle pedal down a little to around 25%, maintain it there and then turn the key (after having the glow plug light go out, obviously) - it will start in not more than two or three turns when cold, without any white smoke and no rough idle, if 2 seconds later you take the foot off the pedal. This doesn't need a fix, just have to teach this to my wife who might sometimes need to drive it...

- FIXED: the ignition would suddenly turn off during driving - only happened twice, but it could be dangerous. Motor would lose power first and battery light go on, then switches off. After much observation (and paying attention the second time it happened), we deducted it would be problem with ignition switch. Got myself a used complete key barrel and while replacing (only ignition switch for now), I noticed that previously a repair of this had been done badly - broken off locking clip and not fitted wiring retention - all this could contribute for the ignition switch being loose, so probably this caused the problem, together with a quite heavy key bunch - I now put the key in a way it minimizes this risk and I'm careful not to touch it with my knee.

So, that's it (for now). You can already see that I had little luck regarding the electrical system :( but I'm still lucky as I've got knowledge in this field...
Last edited by joydivision on 20 Jul 2021, 17:19, edited 5 times in total.
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moizeau
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by moizeau »

A/C leak is probably the condenser, get some UV dye in it. Also at the A/C place they will vacuum it before refilling. If it's a substantial leak it won't empty.
Blower motor wiring is probably due to the ignition switch being partially burnt out when the blower has been running flat out. If done correctly there should be a relay in there somewhere.
Mirror, mine did this intermittently, also on drivers door. Quite possibly the wiring in the flexi between the door and a post. I never bothered fixing this.
Rev counter, try giving it's face a tap and it might spring back into life, again a common issue. Probably gunged up spindle but again never bothered fixing it as it was mostly working.
Display loses some it's functions when an aftermarket stereo is fitted. I fitted an electric cassette connected to an mp3 player.
Spinning locks is an anti theft design, it thinks the wrong key is in and is caused because the lock is never used (locked and unlocked on the remote)and the rockers (can't remember the name) are gunged.
Electri window, inch it to the top then hold the button on. It's the anti pinch and it needs to be taught. Probably due to a battery removal.
Sunroof, possibly the cable or runners, are stuck, it can be operated with an allen key.
Oil leak maybe the inlet manifold rubbers, very common on the XUD's, they harden with heat and age.
Don't worry about the handbrake, they are crap unless you're parked with the rear pointing down a hill. They are internal shoes inside the disc.
joydivision
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by joydivision »

Thanks moizeau, that was a really helpful reply.
I'm going to find out soon about the A/C, right now I'm looking for the right people to take it to. But yes, I also thought about the possibility of being the condenser, it looks "old"...

I'm (hopefully) going to fix the blower today, the control module is defective, I tested it yesterday, today found a local dealer who has it in stock. It might additionally have the problem you're mentioning, but someone made a hack so that it gets 12V (which turns out to be not that wrong after all, it's just the wire that's a bit small in gauge, but I'm not planning to run the blower at full speed for long, especially to spare the new control module that I'm getting today...) so I don't have to solve that.

I'm going to check what you're saying about mirrors wiring, also for the sunroof.

That's some great hint about the electric windows, have to try it, I didn't know that was necessary after battery removal. Was almost planning on buying a new switch... that would have been foolish...

Yes, I knew about the spinning locks, problem was they did it with the right key, sometimes. But the tip on the net worked, they never did it again.

Sure, the display logically loses some functions because no radio connected anymore. But what I'd like to find out is: does my car have only the multifunction display or the trip computer? Probably the first, right? as it doesn't have the button on the steering column switch for the wipers and also the display only seems in a mood of showing the (for now non-existant) temperature indication...

About the oil leak being the inlet manifold rubbers, it's possible, they are in fact oily, maybe the oil gets slowly down on the back of the engine and ends up dropping slowly to the ground. But I'd think that the mechanic would have noticed this (as he took off that metal tube, he had to work close to the inlet manifold) and not taken the conclusion that the leak was close to the turbo. But you may well be right. Somewhere in the future I'll take care of that, it's not a priority for now.

Good to know about the handbrake, one less thing to take care of, but one thing to be really careful with, as we have a lot of hills here.

moizeau wrote:
04 Jul 2021, 11:12
A/C leak is probably the condenser, get some UV dye in it. Also at the A/C place they will vacuum it before refilling. If it's a substantial leak it won't empty.
Blower motor wiring is probably due to the ignition switch being partially burnt out when the blower has been running flat out. If done correctly there should be a relay in there somewhere.
Mirror, mine did this intermittently, also on drivers door. Quite possibly the wiring in the flexi between the door and a post. I never bothered fixing this.
Rev counter, try giving it's face a tap and it might spring back into life, again a common issue. Probably gunged up spindle but again never bothered fixing it as it was mostly working.
Display loses some it's functions when an aftermarket stereo is fitted. I fitted an electric cassette connected to an mp3 player.
Spinning locks is an anti theft design, it thinks the wrong key is in and is caused because the lock is never used (locked and unlocked on the remote)and the rockers (can't remember the name) are gunged.
Electri window, inch it to the top then hold the button on. It's the anti pinch and it needs to be taught. Probably due to a battery removal.
Sunroof, possibly the cable or runners, are stuck, it can be operated with an allen key.
Oil leak maybe the inlet manifold rubbers, very common on the XUD's, they harden with heat and age.
Don't worry about the handbrake, they are crap unless you're parked with the rear pointing down a hill. They are internal shoes inside the disc.
joydivision
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by joydivision »

Good news: blower is fixed, working great on all speeds now! :cheesy: . Was quite an adventure, though. I'll post the story in a separate thread in right subforum, as this may be really useful to other people. And so I only now noticed that this forum doesn't allow editing your posts later... so I can't edit the post saying that it's fixed... :supafrisk: :lol:

Regarding the blower: it was just a not connected cable! the blower motor is not exactly the right type (found out it's from a Xantia) and it didn't come with the connector for that cable which my 406 has (and that works as a feedback control wire for the head unit to know that the motor is in fact spinning when controlled by PWM signal pulsing the ground connection), so they left it unconnected, which made the speed control not working anymore. I was always looking at the wrong culprit (the control module). But more to this in the thread that I will open.

So, the list is getting smaller, but still long enough. I contacted a local A/C specialist who was recommended (hard to find one here...) but their machine is being repaired, so only next week... Now, I've noticed the speedometer is starting to fail (stick) more often, sometimes for large seconds or even minutes, especially at lower speeds. This is annoying (and might even get me a speeding ticked, would be the first in 17 years that I've got my licence, although I'm not really that driver who uses to stick to speed limits precisely...) and I need to get it fixed, this will be done together with the RPM meter (which is dead right now), have to find time to take the instrument cluster out and refurbish it :)

Otherwise the car is behaving nicely, now that I got the cold start thing sorted out (with the trick), it never fails to start quite quickly, and when it has been started once and been driven a little, all the other starts during that day are really, really prompt.

Today, I learned that I can't trust the fuel gauge too much. I almost ran out of fuel. Or at least I believe it was that, as I can't imagine any strange problem causing this and happening only once, and only after doing more than 1000 km with the car already. I was close to 905 km since I had the fuel tank filled (gauge was showing almost half of the last quarter, no orange light on yet), when I was going down a hill, suddenly the car lost power and speed and battery symbol went half on, then I pulled over and the motor was off (noticed it first due to lack of steering assistance and the radio beeping (it's a Sony, lol, they do that when switched off ignition). And yes, when I turned the key, it started right away, but the orange fuel reserve light was on, although the gauge was still in the same place, about half of last quarter. Luckily a gas station was really close, so I carefully drove there and got some diesel. Car has been going perfectly well after this. I noted down the litres I put today, tomorrow I'll fill the tank at a cheaper station I like to go to and make the calculations for average mpg, and there I will see if my suspicions about the fuel gauge are right.

Ah, and the electric window is fine now, thanks again for the hint, was spot on!
joydivision
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by joydivision »

So, some worthy updates.

Here's what I've done:
-- Fixed the clock illumination problem (bulb holder was gone - simply soldered the bulb with wires to correct points)
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-- Took the instruments dash board out, took it apart and resoldered, measured everything, couldn't find any faults, had a better research on the net and found people fixing it by bending the pins slightly on which the needle meters go, to make better contact, I went even further and treated them with deoxit and fine sand paper (they were a bit oxidized), then noticed a problem with the flex cable (that's fixed with that metal piece) that makes connection from inner PCB to the flexible PCB. Decided to go around it and soldered 11 fine wires into place. A hell of a job, and it's not really neat, as to be able to take it apart again fully, they have to be unsoldered from the connector part (where the flex cable went to, previously). I know it's not a nice solution. But it works, eliminates one possible fault source. Hopefully I won't have to get it apart anymore. Result: all the same, unfortunately. :roll:
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Did another research and found out about the (in)famous Bitron 1929SJ (or speedo interface box, another name for it) which clearly is fitted into my car and when I found it (easily), I immediately noticed it had been opened before! Less work for me :lol: as I didn't have to undo the glue. Opened it and it still had the paint on it, so I bathed it in Acetone and used a tooth brush - when solder pads were blank, I started to test it. Measured all and every passive components and also the transistors and ICs. All measured fine. Decided to fully resolder all and every solder joint. Took half an hour. Put it all back together and went for a test drive - speedo working perfectly, hasn't failed yet! Normally it would fail at least once here and then, has started with this since a week or so. So, I think I nailed the speedo going to zero problem, without any need to spend money to buy a new Bitron :cheesy:
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(That's how it looked when I took it out of the car. Forgot to take a pic of the PCB, duh...)

Rev counter problem is the same, though. I consulted the electric schemes in Haynes manual, it doesn't go through the Bitron, it comes direcly from the main ECU in motor. I can't find out if it uses the TDC sensor or something else to figure out the speed. As this car has some modifications (Bosch pump, for example), it might very well be a problem of missing signal? I don't know if that's possible. I've read many cars get RPM from alternator. Maybe it's still the instrument cluster, after all, as I got the point to stick to 4000 rpm suddenly and it stayed there, after knocking around hardly on the instruments cluster. After turning off ignition, it fell immediately to zero and wouldn't go alive again, not even knocking. So, maybe I knocked excessively and brought the meter off its balance? I mean, if it doesn't get a correct signal, maybe it can be made to move by a hard knock and stick somewhere else, like it sticks at zero. I don't know how these meters work, they are different from the simple meters used for temperature and fuel, they have four pins. So, this doesn't necessarily mean that the problem lies in instrument cluster. It might well be a wire or a missing tachometer signal. Right now I don't have time to fiddle anymore with this, will move this to future problems to solve. Priorities right now are ignition switch and air conditioning.
joydivision
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by joydivision »

Here are some (not really good...) pics of the motor.
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And here are two pics about things I discovered. A disconnected plug, don't know what it is for. Any ideas?
Also, in the fuse box there's a place for some relay which is not there. I also admired the fact that there's no relay at all, unlike many other cars, probably they're all inside the BSI or hidden somewhere around the whole vehicle... a french approach? :lol:
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Hell Razor5543
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by Hell Razor5543 »

It is not unusual for there to be unused plugs and sockets. They could be for optional extras that were not specified when the car was first ordered. They could also be because (to save manufacturing costs) there may only be a couple of wiring looms used across a range of model specs.
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moizeau
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by moizeau »

I'm pretty sure mine had that one not plugged in, I presumed it was an inertia switch / crash sensor that turns the fuel off (presumably on petrols).
joydivision
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by joydivision »

Ok that's reassuring :). And you're probably right moizeau, I remember seeing that "crash sensor" with it's rectangular reset button on images of the motor of the petrol versions very close to where this plug is.
joydivision
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by joydivision »

Today I finally managed to take he car to the garage that was recommended to me, and yes, they did a great job (and really cheap!): A/C system is working perfectly now! He said it was totally low on gas, must have been charged incorrectly, machine didn't detect any relevant leak, but he says it may have a very small leak, which could explain why it partially worked for some time when I got the car - if it was charged very low, it would have worked a bit and then the loss of just a little of the gas would make it go below the point where it would stop working at all. Seems plausible to me. Well, as long as it doesn't need more than 1 charge per year, I can live with it. Really happy now! Here in PT it's just madness to drive a car without A/C in the summer...
joydivision
Donor 2021
Posts: 49
Joined: 20 Jun 2021, 11:31
x 9

Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by joydivision »

Today I replaced the ignition switch. One less thing to worry about, I hope.
But bad news regarding the A/C: after these few days going strong, it suddenly stopped working again. Must have a small leak, which takes a few days to loose gas until it's below the threshold for pressure sensor (and fooling the system by bypassing sensor makes compressor clutch come on, but no cool air, exactly like last time), it's small enough for the machine not detecting it when filling. Tomorrow I'm going to call the garage and take the car to them again, but this time to find the leak. Hopefully it's only a hose or some simple component, and not a leaky compressor, for example... :roll:
Hell Razor5543
Donor 2021
Posts: 12429
Joined: 01 Apr 2012, 09:47
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Re: After two americans and one japanese, now my car is a french one :)

Post by Hell Razor5543 »

What can sometimes happen is that a joint can become very slightly loose. This will allow the gas to slowly escape. However, when the A/C equipment runs its' leak test it normally puts a vacuum onto the vehicle A/C, which pulls the joint together and temporarily seals the leak. What you have to hope the garage did was to add a little bit of leak detector fluid into the system when they last topped it up. Then, using a U/V lamp, they can see where the fluid (and gas) escaped.