C4 Coupé clutch 2l 136bhp petrol 2005

[moizeau]

Afternoon all. It seems to be the year of the clutch.
Vin VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]
Has anyone got a part number(s) for the clutch and anything else I might need please?
Also has someone got a procedure, Haynes don't do a book of lies for this car.
Is it a nightmare or straight forward?
Thanks in advance.

[GiveMeABreak]

The clutch kit (item 6) has a few options Pete:

OEM part: 2052K1 priced £385.66
Cheaper Version, part: 1636264380 priced at £163.50
or an exchange service clutch, part: 2051T9 priced at £200.00

I'll put up a guide in the members Resources Section shortly.

[GiveMeABreak]

Do you need to know how to remove the gearbox for this operation?

[moizeau]

Thanks Marc, yes please. Much appreciated.

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so I'll have to do this tomorrow as it will take some time to put together.

[moizeau]

One more quickie, Is the oil gl-4? Cheers

[GiveMeABreak]

ESSO 75W80 EZL 848 or TOTAL 75W80 H 6965 is the recommended.

[moizeau]

Thanks Marc, I've read it takes 1.9l but can't find whether it's gl4 / gl4+ or gl5?

[RichardW]

It's GL4 - you should be able to get the genuine Total stuff easily enough in France! Now called Total Traxium Gear 8. Just under 2 litres is about right -unchanged pretty much since the evolution of the BE box way back in the early 80's!

[moizeau]

Thanks Richard

[GiveMeABreak]

Thanks Marc, yes please. Much appreciated.

Ok, all done:

There are 2 separate guides - one for the gearbox and the other for the clutch:

C4 Coupe EW10J4 2.0 16V 138 BE4R (BVM5) Gearbox Removal / Refitting

C4 Coupe EW10J4 2.0 16V 138 BE4R (BVM5) Clutch Replacement

[moizeau]

Thanks very much

[moizeau]

Well that was a job.
Special tool for the gearbox mount, a pipe wrench if you lower the engine/gearbox enough for access under the wheel arch, it's a 16mm nut with rounded corners so a spanner doesn't work. Remove bolt for the lower engine mount, better to remove it completely. The reason you have to take the front end off is to protect the rad when you move the engine forward to get the rear crash mount off, if not the AC pipes will take the rad out.
Clutch plates were fine, just the release bearing had started to collapse and was eating the spring fingers.
Getting the bottom suspension ball joint off was fun, sheared my t27 socket on the first go releasing the drop arm so had to adlib. Jacked the drop arm a tad and released the ball joint, worked well both sides. Putting them back on however.....
Don't attempt this unless you have a hoist...or are Heman. The G/B isn't heavy but bench pressing it on your back into position isn't good. Luckily, where I was at a mates farm, a tractor came to the rescue with a sling.
Going back to the bottom ball joint, putting it back together, it's easier to remove the 2 bolts that hold the bearing carrier on and take that off, the lower arm doesn't need much persuasion to mate with the shock, far less than the lower ball joint on the arm.
There was something else I was going to mention but can't remember...if anyone wants some photos, I have some but not many, too busy swearing.