How easy is it to replace the lower steering column on a 205 (With PAS)?
Is it simply a matter of removing the upper column or does the steering rack need to be removed?
205 steering column removal
Moderator: RichardW
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Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
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Remove (not just slacken) the appropriate pinch bolt on the bottom U/J, if you want to leave the joint on the rack and remove just the upper shaft, then remove the upper pinch bolt on the U/J.
Think it can be got at by prising the big rubber grommet out from around the shaft, but be warned its a bugger to get back properly.
Dave
Think it can be got at by prising the big rubber grommet out from around the shaft, but be warned its a bugger to get back properly.
Dave
Success! I managed to replace the shaft after a bit of faffing.
1. Jack front of car up as high as you can and place on axle stands.
2. Pop rubber grommet out from inside of car using screwdriver (It does budge!)
3. Loosen and remove bolt securing lower joint. This is really a fiddle, especially if you have large hands! On mine the nut was held in place with a cage so only a ratchet needed on the bolt.
4. Remove plastic shroud around steering column. Next unplug all the wires. Remove plastic panel above accelerator pedal.
5. Slacken and remove nut/bolt securing top joint. Remove 4 nuts holding upper steering column and remove upper column.
6. The lower shaft should simply pull off..
In the Haynes tradition, re-assembly is simply the reverse of the above! However, note the following:
1. The joint on the new shaft may be too tight to fit on the splined shaft that comes out of the steering rack. I opened the joint up fractionally with a lever making it an easy slide fit.
2. The new shaft was a slightly different design meaning the cage that holds the nut on the lower joint didn't fit! I dispensed with the cage and just used the nut/bolt. To tighten the nut/bolt on the lower joint I found it easiest to have an assistant inside the car holding the nut with a spanner whilst I was under the car tightening the bolt with a ratchet.
3. The rubber grommet thing will go back in quite easily..or maybe I was lucky? Insert the curved edge first then push the straight edge home with a screwdriver. It's easier if you lift the carpets first and use washing up liquid around the lip. Then, once the grommet is fitted to the car lift the edge and push the carpet back underneath.
I also greased the two nylon bushes that are in the grommet for good measure.
4. Make sure the upper column is correctly aligned otherwise the plastic cover won't fit properly! This is easy if you look for the indentations left by the securing nuts.
5. Make sure you reconnect all the cables!
Rather interestingly replacing this shaft has cured the 'Shimmy' problem I had with the car. At certain low speeds and on certain roads only the car would 'shimmy' from side to side as if the wheels were buckled. having checked suspension, tracking and wheels I found nothing amiss.
I assume that the Power Steering system was getting into a tizzy and starting to oscillate, causing the front wheels to move slightly from side to side rapidly and obviously with a sloppy steering column joint there was nothing to stop this happening.
1. Jack front of car up as high as you can and place on axle stands.
2. Pop rubber grommet out from inside of car using screwdriver (It does budge!)
3. Loosen and remove bolt securing lower joint. This is really a fiddle, especially if you have large hands! On mine the nut was held in place with a cage so only a ratchet needed on the bolt.
4. Remove plastic shroud around steering column. Next unplug all the wires. Remove plastic panel above accelerator pedal.
5. Slacken and remove nut/bolt securing top joint. Remove 4 nuts holding upper steering column and remove upper column.
6. The lower shaft should simply pull off..
In the Haynes tradition, re-assembly is simply the reverse of the above! However, note the following:
1. The joint on the new shaft may be too tight to fit on the splined shaft that comes out of the steering rack. I opened the joint up fractionally with a lever making it an easy slide fit.
2. The new shaft was a slightly different design meaning the cage that holds the nut on the lower joint didn't fit! I dispensed with the cage and just used the nut/bolt. To tighten the nut/bolt on the lower joint I found it easiest to have an assistant inside the car holding the nut with a spanner whilst I was under the car tightening the bolt with a ratchet.
3. The rubber grommet thing will go back in quite easily..or maybe I was lucky? Insert the curved edge first then push the straight edge home with a screwdriver. It's easier if you lift the carpets first and use washing up liquid around the lip. Then, once the grommet is fitted to the car lift the edge and push the carpet back underneath.
I also greased the two nylon bushes that are in the grommet for good measure.
4. Make sure the upper column is correctly aligned otherwise the plastic cover won't fit properly! This is easy if you look for the indentations left by the securing nuts.
5. Make sure you reconnect all the cables!
Rather interestingly replacing this shaft has cured the 'Shimmy' problem I had with the car. At certain low speeds and on certain roads only the car would 'shimmy' from side to side as if the wheels were buckled. having checked suspension, tracking and wheels I found nothing amiss.
I assume that the Power Steering system was getting into a tizzy and starting to oscillate, causing the front wheels to move slightly from side to side rapidly and obviously with a sloppy steering column joint there was nothing to stop this happening.