Help Please - C3 Picasso front bumper removal (to aid DPF removal)

[[billyjoel]]

Hi all,
Ive recently aquired a 2012 C3 Picasso that is in need of a DPF overhaul. I want to remove it and properly clean it off the car, so had a go at removing it, following the process shown in a YT vid called 'How To Remove Peugeot Partner Tepee DPF'. The C3 Picasso has far less working room between the DPF and radiator / intercooler so I want to take the front of hte car off to aid access.

Can I get hte front bumper off? Can I heck. All clips and bolts are out, 4 from the top, 4 from the bottom. Screws from arch liners out also. A gentle pull of the NS of hte bumper has already broken the first 2 tabs off so Im obviously doint something wrong. But I cant see anything else to undo! I cant seem to get hte headlight out without removing the bumper first so cant be under there.

Ive already read the info on: https://remont-bampera.com/en/citroen-c3-picasso and looked at several pictures of bumpers on ebay etc. These show what apears to be 5 tabs on each side.

Can somebody please help? Im stumped.

Thanks, and apologies for this being a first post. I'll say hi shortly once Ive stopped swearing.

[GiveMeABreak]

Removing the DPF will vary depending on the exact model you have as there are different procedures for different engines on the C3 Picasso. One requires the bumper and headlights to be removed, the other does not. Pop your VIN up here (automatically masked on submission) so I can see which you have and then I might be able to assist you.

[[billyjoel]]

Hi Marc,
Thanks for the reply. My VIN is VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff].

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so your vehicle does not require the bumper to be removed. Here's a guide for you:

Always Disconnect the Battery! See the BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure.

Tooling

Pliers for removing exhaust clips

Before Replacement: Respect the precautions to be taken before repair: The front flexible pipe should be protected against any external mechanical interference The front flexible pipe should not come into contact with any corrosive products Do not deform the front flexible hose by more than 20° angular (X), 20 mm axial and 25 mm in shear (Y) Do not deform the front flexible hose by more than 3° angular (X), 0 mm axial and 3 mm in shear (Y) (Front flexible pipe in place)

Note: Failure to observe these precautions results in a reduction of the service life of the front hose. The uncoupling or removal of the exhaust line is essential for operations requiring lifting of the power train.

Removal


Wait for 1 hour before removal to allow time to cool

• Put the vehicle on a hoist.
• Disconnect the battery.
• Raise the vehicle.
• Remove the under engine protection .

Remove: The bolts (2) The sub-frame front crossmember (1)	Unscrew the bolt (4) to the maximum. Remove and move aside: The pressure take-off pipe (3).

Remove the exhaust clamp (7) using the pliers for removing exhaust clips [0193-B]. Unscrew the bolt (5) to the maximum. Open out the collar (6) as fully as possible. Remove the particulate emission filter (8) (In the direction of the arrow ). Retrieve the steel joint.

Refitting

Tightening Torques:

Reference	Designation	Tightening torques
(4)	Clip - front pipe / Catalytic converter and particle filter (according to equipment)	Tightening to 2,5 m.daN
(6)	Oxygen sensor (according to equipment)	Tightening to 5 m.daN
(7)	Clip - catalytic converter/ turbocharger	Tightening to 2,5 m.daN
(8)	bolts - Front catalytic converter heat shield	Tightening to 0,8 m.daN
(9a)	nuts - Exhaust catalytic converter / Cylinder block	Tightening to 2,5 m.daN
(9b)	studs - Exhaust catalytic converter / Cylinder block	Tightening to 0,6 m.daN
(10)	Clip - catalytic converter/ Particle filter (according to equipment)	Tightening to 2,3 m.daN
(11)	Particle filter inlet exhaust pressure pipe (according to equipment)	Tightening to 2 m.daN
(12)	Particle filter outlet exhaust pressure pipe (according to equipment)	Tightening to 2 m.daN
(13)	bolts - Retaining bracket / Exhaust gas pressure sensor pressure take-offs (according to equipment)	Tightening to 0,3 m.daN
(14)	Exhaust gas temperature sensor	Tightening to 3 m.daN
(15)	bolts - Connector support / Particle filter exhaust differential pressure sensor (according to equipment)	Tightening to 0,8 m.daN
(16)	bolts - Particle filter exhaust differential pressure sensor (according to equipment)	Tightening to 0,8 m.daN

Note: A shim is delivered with the flexible exhaust pipe and particle emission filter alignment kit. Open out the collar (6) as fully as possible (Upwards). Refit the particle emission filter (8) / Exhaust catalytic converter (9) (In the direction of the arrow). Insert the exhaust hose positioning shim ( as "a"). Refit the clip (6). Tighten: The (5) bolt. Remove: The shim (at "a"). Refit: The exhaust clip (7) The pressure take-off pipe (3) The (4) bolt The sub-frame front crossmember (1) The bolts (2) CAUTION: Perform the operations to be carried out following reconnection of the battery. Reconnect the battery, following the relevant part of BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure Start the engine. Check that there are no exhaust gas leaks. Refit the under-engine protection . Check that the pressure sensors are working correctly (measuring of parameters using a diagnostic tool).

[[billyjoel]]

Hi Marc,
Thats amazing, thank you. I had assumed that the DPF and Catalytic Convertor had to be removed as a single unit. Does the CC get blocked with soot too or is it generally just the DPF?

Lastly, any ideas an how to get the pressure take off pipe off? This is proving to be a complete swine. Ive tried heat and WD40, but its yet to budge. Realistically will it actually come loose?

Thanks again.

[GiveMeABreak]

The catalyst part of the system isn't designed to trap particulate matter, so should pass through and that only gets trapped in the DPF part until it gets regenerated and burnt off. Catalytic converters can become clogged over time though - but not commonly. Again shorter journeys where it doesn't get hot enough is usually the culprit, or from the internal components getting bashed / weakened going over bad roads that could cause some elements to come loose and cause blocking. You can get catalytic converter cleaning kits, but you need to make sure they are suitable for the vehicle.

As for getting that pipe off - some PlusGas and leaving it to soak over night - but like anything under the car these are subject to the elements and a car's best friend - rust!

[[billyjoel]]

Thanks for the clarification, looks like the job just got a whole lot simpler, apart from that nut. Thank you again.

[Hell Razor5543]

I swear by (and not AT) Plus Gas. It penetrates well, and can (over time and several doses) release pretty much anything. Not for nothing is it known as 'dismantling fluid'.

[mrjohnson]

Wanted to clean my C3 Picasso DPF and this is the best thread I found describing removal. It came off really easily. Car on ramps. I didn't need to remove the cross member. The pipe clamp bolt only needs loosening a bit. The big circular clamp came off easily. The smaller lower one needed the bolt taking out and two screwdrivers put through the clamp holes in an X shape to act as levers. The pressure connector was stiff. My 20mm C spanner was a little loose for comfort so I used an adjustable spanner with a tube extender to wrangle it off. A bit fiddly. The DPF then just dropped down easily.