C5 2009 2.0 HDi sluggish start-up

[mpellegri]

Hello there,
last month I bought a 2009 C5 VTR+ with 65k miles and really well kept for 3400£ a really good deal. I always like the C5 and when I saw it I could not resist.
The car passed the MOT a week before the purchase. They recently replaced the battery because they were not using it very often and by checking the inspection window it appears to be new.

However, the car start-up seems a little sluggish. If the temperature is below 0C it likely takes two tries to start. In normal conditions it still feels like it's struggling a bit, with low rpm start-up before ignition. I checked the cranking specs of the battery and they seem about right (in the lower acceptable range - 680A... but still acceptable). I struggled a bit to read the specs without removing it, I will need to double check. (BTW do you guys know if you need a code to reset the radio if you remove the battery?)

Has anyone had similar experiences? I checked videos online and they seem to start normally.
Could it be a bad starter motor?

Thanks in advance!

[Hell Razor5543]

Hi, and to the Forum.

That IS likely to be the starter motor. The HDi engine needs to get to a certain RPM (during the starting cycle) before the relevant ECU will allow fuel into the cylinders. I have had to replace the starter motor on my previous C5, and helped to replace one on an HDi Berlingo. On both cars the engines then spun up much faster when starting. I got a refurbished motor from GSF for around £120, and (because I gave them the old motor in the packaging they provided) I got back around £60.

When the engine is cold the oil is thicker than when the engine is at working temperature, so requires more effort from the motor to turn it over. Once the oil is warm it is easier to turn the engine over.

If you disconnect or replace the battery you will not need to enter a code for the radio, although it will have lost the station settings and the time/date. However, you should follow a specific procedure to allow the ECUs to shut down and then start up cleanly. Failing to do this can sometimes cause glitches to occur;

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... 51&t=61997

[wheeler]

There is no radio code on the car, it is coded to the VIN so you dont need to input any codes after a battery disconnection.
The little inspection windows on a car battery are not the slightest bit indicative of the condition of the battery.
Im pretty sure the original battery is 720 CCA (EN) so I wouldn't waste my time looking at the starter motor until i had at least the same as the original.
That extra 30 amps could make all the difference at these temperatures.
Out of curiosity what brand is the battery?

[mpellegri]

Thanks for the reply.

The brand is Lion (not Li-on) Batteries... never heard before!
I agree, that's what worried me. I'll try and have a look with a multi-meter to check the voltage, but I agree, if the CCA is low there is not much to do.

[wheeler]

Thanks for the reply.

The brand is Lion (not Li-on) Batteries... never heard before!
I agree, that's what worried me.

Your right to be, thats Euro Crap Parts own brand junk. Average lifespan about 6 months in my experience.
Static voltage again is not a good indicator of battery condition, a failed battery can have 12.65v at rest but not enough power to start the car.
Does your voltmeter record max/min? You want to see what it drops down to on cranking, it should not drop below 9v on a first cold start.

[Hell Razor5543]

Erm, that explains a lot. People on this forum will drive a long way to avoid buying parts from ECP. The quality of their parts is usually substandard, while their customer aftercare service can be even worse. Reputable mechanics/garages avoid them (Halfords use them, which may explain a few things).

[Peter.N.]

I have had this problem with one of mine, I changed the starter which didn't seem to help much but eventually found the battery was below par - still didn't help. When I was going up a steep hill in Yorkshire last year it cut out on me, you could only keep it going by keeping the revs up. Later when home again I changed the fuel filter, that made it worse, anyway to cut a long story shorter I found I was getting air in the fuel line, you couldn't actually see the bubbles until I shone a bright light through the back of the clear fuel line and there was a stream of very small bubbles at the top of the pipe.

The fuel filter was covered with something that looked like fungus so I suspected I had the same in the tank filter, removed it, clean as a whistle. On reassembly I tried it again and no bubbles, not only did the engine start immediately but it didn't try and stall on me when I pulled away as it had previously.

After about 100 miles it started doing the same thing again and I haven't found where the air is getting in yet and the weather had been so awful I haven't really tried, but I suspect the fuel line connector on the tank may be the problem as it was only after a disconnected and reconnected it that the fault dissapeared. We are using the other car at the moment.

You can check if it is air by pumping the primer before you try to start, if its soft but starts better after priming that will likely be the problem.

Peter

[admiral51]

When i needed to change the battery on my Xantia earlier this year i got one from GSF.
The link is for the same brand and i have had no issues so far.
GSF Battery They have a 60% off discount brings it in at just under £98.
Would like to say i did do some research on the brand YUASA before my purchase and the one linked to has 760 CCA as opposed to the OP's current one of 680 CCA

Colin

[mpellegri]

Thanks everyone, I think I will go for a new battery. I am worried the one I have rn might damage the electronics in the long term.
I found good offers on Amazon like this one.

I would like to change it. Any recommendation for a C5 VTR+? I saw a few things you need to do after the battery is removed, like reinitialise the remote key, the windows and potentially the navi? Anything else I need to be aware of?

[wheeler]

Looks good, I generally only fit Yuasa batteries to my vehicles as i have always found them the most reliable but Bosch would be my second choice.

[Peter.N.]

If you leave it with everything off and doors closed until the ECU's shut down, just a few minutes before you disconnect it, then make sure you get a good connection first time when you reconnect it you shouldn't have to do anything.

I have bought a few batteries from 'Tayna' batteries on ebay, the prices are good and so is their feedback, I have had no trouble with them so far, get the highest capacity battery that will fit.

I have a good secondhand starter for for the car but I only paid about £60 for a new one, again on ebay and its fine.

Peter