Mannol oils

[bobins]

Has anyone any useful views on Mannol oils, or has anyone ever used them medium / long term ? I see that you can currently get 20 litres of their PSA B71 2290 spec low SAPS oil for around £36-odd delivered via ebay and a discount code. That seems remarkably cheap

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MANNOL-20L-O ... 3171714482
https://www.mannol.de/products/o-e-m-li ... ot-citroen

[moizeau]

Yep, I've got their AM6 oil in the 407. I checked all the specs and researched it do death. They were well rated on a Volvo forum.
I have recently bought my low saps oil from here
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322817194286
It works out at 4€ a litre plus post and it's TOTAL so I was pleased with that.

[johntech]

I have used Mannol oil in my cars for a number of years and had no problems.
Could it be the big names take us for a ride ?
If I bought a new car I suppose I may be a bit wary after looking under the bonnet "Citroen prefer Total"
Best Wishes John

[bobins]

Ta for the feedback, chaps. Much appreciated.

[lexi]

I bought 10 litres of the ENERGY 5-30 and did first oil change last month on the DV6 1.6hdi. First time I have used it. This will be what it gets I think.
Don't think it is the lowest of Saps numbers mind. Some doubt the whole wisdom of low saps oils anyway. Change it frequent and does it all matter?

[civvie]

I used Mannol low sap oil on my 3008 when I had it and also my daughters 207 (mind you I replaced the oil every 6 months or so due to possible turbo issues) checked and rechecked all the specs didn't have any problems with it. Maybe because they don't spend millions on publicity they sell it cheaper.

[Paul-R]

Some doubt the whole wisdom of low saps oils anyway. Change it frequent and does it all matter?

Indeed it does. The low SAPS oils are not used because of impurities they might pick up and hold in suspension.

Low SAPS means that the oil will burn (as some inevitably does) in the combustion chamber and leave the minimum of solids behind. These solids are blown out of the combustion chamber and then trapped in the particle filter (as they should be - that's what the filter is there for). If the oil is not low SAPS then the particle filter will clog up earlier than normal.

[Peter.N.]

I've used them for some time, used to get my oil from Trago Mills but its not cheap there any more so I use Mannol. I was buying 20 litres of engine oil but with the lower mileage I am doing now and the extended change intervals - not that I leave it that long, I buy a couple of gallons at a time.

They do a terrific range of oils, my son just got some for the limited slip diff in his Ranger, about half the price of anywhere else. As long as it meets the required spec I have no problem with it.

Peter

[Sveina]

First of all, an ACEA C2 oil is not low SAPS. It is medium SAPS. C2 is also the 2,9-3,5 cP HTHS viscosity range. It is full SAPS oils which can make problems with DPF/GPF. If that 20 liter contains the correct PSA spec for your vehicle, and the oil sold is not counterfeit, then it will do the job for you, regardless of what brand it is. So then it is just a matter of choosing the cheapest not-counterfeit PSA B71 2290 oil you can get. I usually substitute the ACEA C2 with ACEA C3 with the addition of BMW LL-04 and MB-approval 229.51/52.

The text on the ebay site is a little bit confusing. Probably not correct at all. It sais C2 oil and meets specs of MB 229.51. First of all, proper MB approvals is listed as: MB-approval 229.51, and is on the MB Bevo list. Not just MB 229.51. They probably don't have that approval, since 229.51 needs HTHS >3,5 cP, and this C2 oil probably don't (3,0 range). Not that is impossible, but unlightly. I would only believe in those text on the front of the container in big sizes. The ones you linked seems to not have the exact same labeling...

If you need B71 2290 then look no further. Only concern is that it is genuine or not.

[lexi]

Some doubt the whole wisdom of low saps oils anyway. Change it frequent and does it all matter?

Indeed it does. The low SAPS oils are not used because of impurities they might pick up and hold in suspension.

Low SAPS means that the oil will burn (as some inevitably does) in the combustion chamber and leave the minimum of solids behind. These solids are blown out of the combustion chamber and then trapped in the particle filter (as they should be - that's what the filter is there for). If the oil is not low SAPS then the particle filter will clog up earlier than normal.

Yeah we know all that!
That oil isn't low saps. It is medium. I do low miles and change often, do I care if it 'aint the top top low saps? Some doubt the whole wisdom of low saps, is what I said. Oilem seem to think it goes a lot deeper than the stuff you gave above, that you can find on a label.

[Sveina]

Some doubt the whole wisdom of low saps, is what I said. Oilem seem to think it goes a lot deeper than the stuff you gave above, that you can find on a label.

SAPS levels for ACEA E approved oils for trucks is generally much higher than those for small passenger cars. A lot of people have gotten away with running full SAPS oils in their cars. Why? -The sulfated ash collects in the DPF/GPF and is burned deliberately through cycles. When you have a type of driving that heats up your exhaust gas temperature you also burn off the collected ash in the filter. And that driving can be the engine is programmed to cycle in a high heat burn or it can be from own high EGT driving. People that only short trip and doesn't get any high heat for weeks on is much more likely to get problems with high SAPS oils. Those should choose a low-SAPS type. If you are autobahn driving alot of distances a full SAPS may be good.

SAPS in itself are a good agent for a higher TBN (total base number). Research have shown with new additives that the ACEA C oils which have lower TBN than ACEA A3, to have good TBN retention, and many times not deplete as much as the A3 version. So that the lowered initial TBN isn't really a problem. This in diesel engines.

[Paul-R]

Yeah we know all that!

Then I can't understand why you made that post and framed it the way you did.

The answer is not the difference between low and medium SAPS but the difference between normal oil and oil which is lower in SAPS. Lower could be low or medium in this context.

[lexi]

Some doubt the whole wisdom of low saps, is what I said. Oilem seem to think it goes a lot deeper than the stuff you gave above, that you can find on a label.

SAPS levels for ACEA E approved oils for trucks is generally much higher than those for small passenger cars. A lot of people have gotten away with running full SAPS oils in their cars. Why? -The sulfated ash collects in the DPF/GPF and is burned deliberately through cycles. When you have a type of driving that heats up your exhaust gas temperature you also burn off the collected ash in the filter. And that driving can be the engine is programmed to cycle in a high heat burn or it can be from own high EGT driving. People that only short trip and doesn't get any high heat for weeks on is much more likely to get problems with high SAPS oils. Those should choose a low-SAPS type. If you are autobahn driving alot of distances a full SAPS may be good.

SAPS in itself are a good agent for a higher TBN (total base number). Research have shown with new additives that the ACEA C oils which have lower TBN than ACEA A3, to have good TBN retention, and many times not deplete as much as the A3 version. So that the lowered initial TBN isn't really a problem. This in diesel engines.

I do low miles per annum. 5k mls. It consists of 40 -150 miles return trips on country roads at 50-60 mph. No short trips.

[lexi]

Yeah we know all that!

Then I can't understand why you made that post and framed it the way you did.

The answer is not the difference between low and medium SAPS but the difference between normal oil and oil which is lower in SAPS. Lower could be low or medium in this context.

I was speaking of the Mannol oil in question, not bog standard any old oil .