UNUSALL LOW BOOST. P1497 P2562 HELP

[lawns]

My 2016 C3 1.4 HDI DV4C cruse control trips out sometimes when climbing hills. I did a global test on Lexia and found P1497 and P2562 fault codes logged against the Bosch EDC17C10 R3 ECU. After clearing the codes, I did a live check of the air system and found the Turbo wastegate requirement drops from 99% to 54% soon after engine coolant temperature goes above 60C. The actual wastegate position also drops but only to 75% at static tick over.
The Turbo boost pressure follows this and drops below requirement as you would expect, however when decelerating the wastegate requirement climbs back towards 99% and the + 20% split of actual to required Turbo wastegate heads to zero, restoring Turbo pressure. This seems the wrong way round to me as I thought you would need Max boost on acceleration not deceleration! This low wastegate/Turbo boost pressure remains till shutdown and coolant drops below 60C which resets the wastegate requirement back to 99% and Turbo boost pressure meets requirement till again coolant goes over 60C.
I have checked the suspect areas listed against these fault codes in information on my old cloned copy of Citroen Service Box but can’t find anything relating to what changes at coolant temperatures above 60C.
Has anyone seen anything similar to this problem? Has anyone suggestions or information to pin down the cause as I have run over my knowledge level.
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[ImNoExpert]

Hello. It's been a long time since you posted with no replies, but did you find a solution to your P1497?

Thanks.

[lawns]

Hi ImNoExpert,
Yes it has been a long time, and yes did cure the P1497 & P2562 fault codes after changing lots of sensors to check they were giving good readings I found the air flow meter was giving bad inlet air readings. The bad news for me is it did not fully cure the required and measured turbocharger position split which I still have, may be due to fitting a cheap EBay air flow meter and now have lots of BSI FA58 fault codes so its not happy with something and cruse control that still cuts out on hills.
Hope this helps,
Regards

[ImNoExpert]

Thanks, Lawns.

I too have replaced all sensors and not for OEM parts. It's not an area I've looked at as I've no actual codes on the van......I just seem to have low turbo at higher speeds/pedal positions.

Hope you find the solution.

Regards.

[Doo]

Turbo's work best on cool wet nights (which sucks because you don'e really want extra power on wet roads ).

So if the turbo is trying to compress air, it's working hard. But compressing hot air, which is less dense, it's working harder. As a safe option, the waste-gate will open to dump the air & allow the turbo to cool....or in this case, thinks it's too hot!

Except, turbos don't think, they compress. I would feel inclined to think the MAF should be an OEM and check for any splits or cracks in the hoses or the PCV which is often overlooked. I believe your model will have a boost control position sensor which can go faulty. I would assume you've checked this?

[ImNoExpert]

Turbo's work best on cool wet nights (which sucks because you don'e really want extra power on wet roads ).

So if the turbo is trying to compress air, it's working hard. But compressing hot air, which is less dense, it's working harder. As a safe option, the waste-gate will open to dump the air & allow the turbo to cool....or in this case, thinks it's too hot!

Except, turbos don't think, they compress. I would feel inclined to think the MAF should be an OEM and check for any splits or cracks in the hoses or the PCV which is often overlooked. I believe your model will have a boost control position sensor which can go faulty. I would assume you've checked this?

Hi, Doo.

I've taken a hiatus from the van but put a full can of Lucas EGR/Trubo cleaner thru the Inlet Man over a period of 4 days.

I have used Lexia Diagbox 7.83 and got an intermittent P1497 Not Enough Turbo (Copy Sensor) I don't have a removable sensor as it's built into the whole actuator.

This van has had so much done to it and so many parts changed. the heat chield on the rear of the engine that protects the solenoids has been removed, so I've replaced all of them (3 of them-pressure converter and 2 vac sols)


So what I haven't done is test the voltages/wiring etc. I don't have the knowledge but i do have a miltimeter. I'm missing what the voltages should be. I'll check the feed to and from the sensor.


I'm really close to figuring this out and it's going to be something simple. 3rd may is my 12 month Anniversary of buying the van and every day since, trying to figure out why it's so under powered (intermittently).

[Doo]

Turbo's work best on cool wet nights (which sucks because you don'e really want extra power on wet roads ).

So if the turbo is trying to compress air, it's working hard. But compressing hot air, which is less dense, it's working harder. As a safe option, the waste-gate will open to dump the air & allow the turbo to cool....or in this case, thinks it's too hot!

Except, turbos don't think, they compress. I would feel inclined to think the MAF should be an OEM and check for any splits or cracks in the hoses or the PCV which is often overlooked. I believe your model will have a boost control position sensor which can go faulty. I would assume you've checked this?

Hi, Doo.

I've taken a hiatus from the van but put a full can of Lucas EGR/Trubo cleaner thru the Inlet Man over a period of 4 days.

I have used Lexia Diagbox 7.83 and got an intermittent P1497 Not Enough Turbo (Copy Sensor) I don't have a removable sensor as it's built into the whole actuator.

This van has had so much done to it and so many parts changed. the heat chield on the rear of the engine that protects the solenoids has been removed, so I've replaced all of them (3 of them-pressure converter and 2 vac sols)


So what I haven't done is test the voltages/wiring etc. I don't have the knowledge but i do have a miltimeter. I'm missing what the voltages should be. I'll check the feed to and from the sensor.


I'm really close to figuring this out and it's going to be something simple. 3rd may is my 12 month Anniversary of buying the van and every day since, trying to figure out why it's so under powered (intermittently).

Sorry I haven't been around, got a rotten cold, burst eardrum and all manner of chest infection, sore muscles from coughing (perhaps I "should" wear a mask when grinding rust, dust & general grot!) and am dizzy from either the meds or the ear....

Anyhoo, most CanBus sensors use 5v, but can vary from 0v to 5v fully attenuated. There's the odd thing that may require 12v. But DO NOT apply 12v to ANY of these unless it specifies so!!!

I think you need to carry out a Live Data interrogation, which can operate systems using the computer via the CanBus system.

Wife came home from driving to work after a call telling me her car sounds like the fan is running full speed when she accelerates. I suggested she turn around & take my car.

I retired to bed until after lunchtime as I was in no fit state to even make tea, let alone diagnose & repair my wife's car. So when I got up & ingested my second round of meds, I felt solid enough to wade in. Found a short hose with the inner lining in tatters as well as a 3 bolt joint at the inlet where full pressure was bleeding out. I removed the aluminium part, cleaned the small oil weep & checked the rubber sealing ring (square, but who's anal enough t point that o....ahh, wait ) I digress. I put the bolts back in, spun them up tight with my Sealey 90 degree 3/8ths battery ratchet (reaches around 38Nm of torque) but not mad tight.

Took the car down the hill & back up & the mad fan noise had gone I felt good enough to adjust up her parking brake, which was less than appropriate to a more pleasing 4 clicks (although I suspect it needs pads "very" soon).

The thing is, her pressure leak wasn't severe enough to trigger any MAF warnings, so I caught it in time (or rather she did, clever girl ) and averted any system shut down grievances.

So if you have already ruled out the usual suspects, I would most definitely start interrogating the electronics. Also, be sure to have a good, fully charged battery and not missing any earth wires as they also can play havoc with the CanBus system.

[ImNoExpert]

hahah. That was a great read. Hope you're on the mend. seems a Bad Cold is going around, so fingers crossed it's passes me by.

Despite my longing to have this issue sorted, I was experiencing water loss, high pressures in the cooling system. Maybe I did it myself when removing the EGR last year for inspection, but it now appears I've never bled the system correctly. Either that, or the egr is knackered or the head gasket is blown and has been like this since I bought it 12 months ago.

Either way, I'm wondering if you have any wisdom on bleeding this system without the use of a charge cylinder? I can't find one to buy not instructions on how it even works.

The turbo copy sensor will have to wait till i sort the bubbling expansion tank and hope it's not the head gasket.