Constant live for dashcam

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derbyshire1970
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Constant live for dashcam

Post by derbyshire1970 »

Good afternoon
Can any body offer advice, I am looking to hardwire a nextbase dash cam and use the parking mode facility.
I have the correct piggyback fuse connector from Nextbase
But which fuse in the glove box isa constant live
I.e doesn’t shut down i
After about 20 minutes
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GiveMeABreak
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by GiveMeABreak »

I'll have a look shortly for you - I fitted a front and rear camera to my C5 X7 (see link below). I appreciate you want to use the park facility - but be aware that this can also flatten your battery very easily. If you use a permanent live (as I originally did for the same reason), you have to remember to switch the camera off manually every time you don't want it on. I found that I forgot to do this more times than I care to remember and flattened the battery.

I therefore decided that option was more trouble than it was worth and changed it to use a switched positive instead. Now the camera starts up and shuts off with the ignition automatically so I can forget it.

viewtopic.php?t=56754

I'll take a look at the wiring shortly for a permanent fuse for you in any case.
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GiveMeABreak
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Ok, so looking at your specs, I would of suggested the inside cabin fusebox, but according to your VIN you don't have these options - so check to see if there are any fuses in these locations. Note that the BH12 fuse box will be mounted either to the sides, bottom or top of the BSI and are marked as I've noted - so you may need a torch to see the markings.

F29: 30A driver's heated seat regulation control unit - passenger's heated seat regulation control unit
F38: 20A seat memorisation control unit
F36: 20A audio amplifier

If these are not there, then you can try:

F15: 30A driver door lock assembly - passenger door lock assembly - rear LH door lock assembly - rear RH door lock assembly

But make sure your secondary piggy back fuse connection uses an appropriate fuse rated for the connected camera (s).
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white exec
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by white exec »

Is there maybe an option for cigarette lighter socket being either Perm+ or IGN+ ?
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Not really feasible Chris, as per my guide I linked to, the 12V power socket is BSI controlled on many PSA vehicles, so the BSI will cut power at any time it wants within 30 minutes (usually a lot sooner) when economy mode kicks in.
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Stickyfinger
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by Stickyfinger »

LiPo battery pack powered from (shut off) live ?
It should give days and days of power.
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van ordinaire
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by van ordinaire »

Unless, of course, the camera's activated - presumably.
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Stickyfinger wrote:
11 Jan 2020, 15:57
LiPo battery pack powered from (shut off) live ?
It should give days and days of power.
Yes, that’s a good idea. So the battery power pack would be charged from switched positive while the engine is running and would power your dashcam continuously until it ran out when the engine was switched off. Sounds like a plan.

There are different types of systems on the dash cams. Some stay on when parked, actually recording to catch the trolley scraping vandals and others with an accelerometer that only activates the recording when the impact has occurred.
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Stickyfinger
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by Stickyfinger »

Just make sure the power supply is a 2amp one....a 3x 18650 pack (with low discharge protection) will do it and last about 3-5 days I would think
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white exec
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by white exec »

That sounds unnecessarily complicated.
Surely possible to locate a "perm live" in the dash area.
How about the one feeding the radio? Will likely already be suitably fused.
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by GiveMeABreak »

A lot of these are BSI controlled Chris - that's the issue - like the 12V cigarette lighter scenario. And as we are using a piggy back from the BSI fuse boxes it's a matter of finding one that it will not switch off. Not advisable to splice into wires on these with the CAN wiring going through so many systems either as that will guarantee electrical issues down the line.
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by jscadden »

I fitted a permanent feed for my dashcam. The kit I used contained circuitry to monitor the voltage and switch off if it dropped too low. I used a fuse in the compartment next to the battery by selecting a live fuse whilst the ignition was off.

Works perfectly!

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white exec
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by white exec »

The problem on many modern cars is finding a safe route for any extra cable needing to be run from engine compartment to cabin/dash. Double firewalls, rigid and inaccessible grommets and soundproofing all make this difficult.

In theory, cigarette lighter sockets (if perm live can be activated) and radio feeds should provide moderate level power, but otherwise it's a matter of investigating the IGN switch (often difficult to access), or the cabin fuseboard - where a circuit diagram is pretty much essential.

Disappointing to hear that power sockets/cigarette lighters might no longer have the via-IGN/perm-live option, which was available on many cars by selecting the position of a fuse.
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by Gibbo2286 »

I couldn't be bothered with permanent wiring and the cigarette lighter connection was a bit dodgy, kept disconnecting on bumps in the road, so I bought one of these and it sits on the dash close to the windscreen wired directly to the camera with a short usb cable.

When I was having my front yard re-laid I stuck the camera to my front bedroom window and recorded the whole process over several days without needing to charge the kit.

https://www.imuto.com/index.php?route=p ... ct_id=79
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Re: Constant live for dashcam

Post by GiveMeABreak »

I wanted mine properly wired in, without any loose or dangling wires and nothing plugged into the cigarette lighter, so have all my wiring hidden and wired into the fusebox and earthing point. With both front and rear cameras, this was essential, as there would be 2 lots of wiring to route back to the front camera (power and rear camera) and even a third wire if one wanted the additional GPS module for this camera - but I didn't need or want this option just to get the location / speed data on the camera footage.

viewtopic.php?t=56754

I must confess I like the clean unclustered look and don't like the dangly bits!