Hi folks
The small number of ZXs I have driven seem to have excessive free travel in the brake pedal - say 2 inches, although the brakes are excellent. Does this simply mean most have seized rear self-adjusters, or is it normal? I am discounting anything to do with the pedal-to-servo pushrod as this is unlikely to have been disturbed
How much play in ZX brake pedal?
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David W
- Posts: 439
- Joined: 30 Apr 2001, 17:49
Mike,
Yes this is often an issue. With rear drum brakes folks often leave in the rear shoes well past the point where they affect the pedal feel, if not the actual ultimate stopping ability (i.e. they will pass an MOT OK).
Usually the shoes do not look badly worn but they do not need to be nearly to the metal to produce this fault.
Of course leaking rear wheel cylinders are quite common, peel back the dust seals to check when the drums are off. Also faults with the self adjusters or really worn rear drums are not unknown.
Many cars are going about with old brake fluid so worth looking at changing/bleeding sooner rather than later.
Finally I have changed a few master cylinders on ZX/306s with over 80,000 mls to improve the pedal feel no end.
I reckon in 75% of cases though it is simply a new set of rear shoes to bring back a decent pedal.
David
Yes this is often an issue. With rear drum brakes folks often leave in the rear shoes well past the point where they affect the pedal feel, if not the actual ultimate stopping ability (i.e. they will pass an MOT OK).
Usually the shoes do not look badly worn but they do not need to be nearly to the metal to produce this fault.
Of course leaking rear wheel cylinders are quite common, peel back the dust seals to check when the drums are off. Also faults with the self adjusters or really worn rear drums are not unknown.
Many cars are going about with old brake fluid so worth looking at changing/bleeding sooner rather than later.
Finally I have changed a few master cylinders on ZX/306s with over 80,000 mls to improve the pedal feel no end.
I reckon in 75% of cases though it is simply a new set of rear shoes to bring back a decent pedal.
David
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uhn113x
- Posts: 1161
- Joined: 06 Jan 2004, 22:06
- x 3
Thanks for that, David. I am going to do the infamous subframe mounts as soon as we get a decent fine day, so I will whip the drums off and have a look. My experience of Girling self-adjusting brakes is that the self-adjusters are usually seized (unless like those I looked at on a friend's Visa, the adjusters had been swapped from right to left, and were 'unadjusters'!
I usually have a close look behind wheel cylinder boots - DS will need them sorting soon, as one side has the slightest weep - not enough to escape from the boot (yet)
I usually have a close look behind wheel cylinder boots - DS will need them sorting soon, as one side has the slightest weep - not enough to escape from the boot (yet)
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David W
- Posts: 439
- Joined: 30 Apr 2001, 17:49
Mike,
As long as the drum wear lip is not too bad (and if it is then you really need new drums anyway) it is often a good test to force the adjusters out as far as possible so the drums will only just slip on. Then you'll get a feel for the pedal with minimal shoe-drum distance.
Yep I'm always peering behind the cylinder dust rubbers. I hate this dealer thing of only checking rear brakes every 24K mls , and often then by looking through an inspection bung. They never see leaking cylinders until the drum is full of a pasty mess.
You're going to beat me to it with the rear subframe mounts. Ours has just got the "clonk" over the past month or two. It is a bit dangerous to say it but after all that work you will have read about (clutch, shocks, discs/pads, complete exhaust, driveshaft gaiters, battery, 4 tyres, etc etc) the subframe bushes *should* be the last thing to do for a while! I don't have time for a good few weeks though.
David
As long as the drum wear lip is not too bad (and if it is then you really need new drums anyway) it is often a good test to force the adjusters out as far as possible so the drums will only just slip on. Then you'll get a feel for the pedal with minimal shoe-drum distance.
Yep I'm always peering behind the cylinder dust rubbers. I hate this dealer thing of only checking rear brakes every 24K mls , and often then by looking through an inspection bung. They never see leaking cylinders until the drum is full of a pasty mess.
You're going to beat me to it with the rear subframe mounts. Ours has just got the "clonk" over the past month or two. It is a bit dangerous to say it but after all that work you will have read about (clutch, shocks, discs/pads, complete exhaust, driveshaft gaiters, battery, 4 tyres, etc etc) the subframe bushes *should* be the last thing to do for a while! I don't have time for a good few weeks though.
David
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uhn113x
- Posts: 1161
- Joined: 06 Jan 2004, 22:06
- x 3
<font color="blue">David
<font face="Arial">As long as the drum wear lip is not too bad (and if it is then you really need new drums anyway) it is often a good test to force the adjusters out as far as possible so the drums will only just slip on. Then you'll get a feel for the pedal with minimal shoe-drum distance.
<font color="black"> Never thought of that - good idea</font id="black">
Yep I'm always peering behind the cylinder dust rubbers. I hate this dealer thing of only checking rear brakes every 24K mls , and often then by looking through an inspection bung. They never see leaking cylinders until the drum is full of a pasty mess.
<font color="black">That's OK - no dealer has ever or will ever see a wheel cylinder of mine!</font id="black">
You're going to beat me to it with the rear subframe mounts. Ours has just got the "clonk" over the past month or two. It is a bit dangerous to say it but after all that work you will have read about (clutch, shocks, discs/pads, complete exhaust, driveshaft gaiters, battery, 4 tyres, etc etc) the subframe bushes *should* be the last thing to do for a while! I don't have time for a good few weeks though.</font id="Arial"></font id="blue">
Depends on the weather - garage is full of dismantled Caban, so will be doing it on drive. Wiper motor and timer to replace first - some clot had put the arm back in the wrong position at some time, I think, because the motor windings are cooked - it runs very slowly and gets hot, and the NC contacts for 'park' in the relay are O/C
<font face="Arial">As long as the drum wear lip is not too bad (and if it is then you really need new drums anyway) it is often a good test to force the adjusters out as far as possible so the drums will only just slip on. Then you'll get a feel for the pedal with minimal shoe-drum distance.
<font color="black"> Never thought of that - good idea</font id="black">
Yep I'm always peering behind the cylinder dust rubbers. I hate this dealer thing of only checking rear brakes every 24K mls , and often then by looking through an inspection bung. They never see leaking cylinders until the drum is full of a pasty mess.
<font color="black">That's OK - no dealer has ever or will ever see a wheel cylinder of mine!</font id="black">
You're going to beat me to it with the rear subframe mounts. Ours has just got the "clonk" over the past month or two. It is a bit dangerous to say it but after all that work you will have read about (clutch, shocks, discs/pads, complete exhaust, driveshaft gaiters, battery, 4 tyres, etc etc) the subframe bushes *should* be the last thing to do for a while! I don't have time for a good few weeks though.</font id="Arial"></font id="blue">
Depends on the weather - garage is full of dismantled Caban, so will be doing it on drive. Wiper motor and timer to replace first - some clot had put the arm back in the wrong position at some time, I think, because the motor windings are cooked - it runs very slowly and gets hot, and the NC contacts for 'park' in the relay are O/C