Peugeot 306 getting hot

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JR
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Peugeot 306 getting hot

Post by JR »

Hi all,
I have posted here before regarding my Peugeot 306 1.8xt auto 95', which is still having temp problems.
To date I have replaced the; radiator, rad switch, thermostat, temp gauge and had the head skimmed and head gasket replaced. The car is certainly running allot smoother, however the cooling fan is still coming on too often for my liking.
Whilst cruising, the temp sits around 85, which is all good, but as soon as I hit a bit of light traffic or even a few sets of traffic lights, the temp creeps up to 100, followed by the cooling fan kicking in. I call it the point of no return, as once the cooling fan has come on the engine strugles to maintain a stable temperature and the cooling fan will then come on more regularly.
The cooling system is not loosing any water and the coolant was changed 3 months ago. I have noticed that the engine smells of hot oil, particuarly when I have been in heavy traffic.
I am not sure what other components to check, someone did mention that I should have the coolant temp sensor checked, which is attached the cylinder head. According to the Haynes manuals this sensor feeds info to the ECU on the temp of the engine, as opposed to actually regulating the engine temperature.
Any ideas or further suggestions greatly appreciated,
cheers, JR
CITMAN
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Post by CITMAN »

as long as its not losing any coolant it ll be okay. After sitting in traffic my zx 1.4i stays at around 100c, until I get on the open road and drops pack to just above 90c. Would worry unless its running dodge.
JR
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Post by JR »

I realise the temp is not in the danger zone, but it is very close to it and the last time the rad boiled over, I had to had to have the head skimmed - not cheap! I want to alleviate this from happening again and therefore regulate the temperature.
The car does not have air con and the only way to regulate the engine temp is to leave the heating on setting number 3, which in the winter is 'cool', but in the summer months I roast.[8D]
There must be something I'm missing, as the cooling system is not working the way it use to when I bought the car. Are there any other parts of the cooling system or sensors associated with the cooling system that I should check or replace?
cheers, JR
philhoward

Post by philhoward »

Next things to check would be if the fan(s) are running as well as they should be. There should be a serious blow from them when running (short out the fan switch to check). Possible causes of a slow fan could be either corroded connectors - do the connectors get hot when running? - or even a partially siezed fan - does it spin freely with no power to it?. Another possibility is if your water pump is not upto scratch. I've seen a quick check to do (something like removing a bleed screw on a cold engine and seeing how far the jet of water goes) for the water pump.
JR
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Post by JR »

Cooling fan is working fine and sounds like an industrial hoover - I often advise small children not too get too close to the car when it is on as they could quite easily be sucked into the engine. The cooling fan is doing it's job, it just does it far too often.
I will have a look at the water pump - how far should the water shoot out from centre bleed screw when cold?
What about the coolant temperature sensor - is it worth having that checked?
cheers, JR
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Post by JohnD »

When you refilled the cooling system, did you make sure you got rid of any air locks?
CITMAN
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Post by CITMAN »

If the fan is kicking in and out. May be your temp gauge is not accurate. I know the one on the zx is crap
batwad
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Post by batwad »

I too had cooling fan problems with my 306 last month. I found that my cooling fans were kicking in when they shouldn't and not cutting out when they should, so I replaced the thermostat and rad thermoswitch which seem to have sorted things. You say you've replaced them though, so we can assume they're fine.
As far as engine temp is concerned, yours sounds like mine - cruises nicely at around 85 but warms up when you hit traffic. I've had mine reach around 90 since changing the bits I mentioned, but then I don't often encounter bad traffic on my commute (touch wood). So I'm with Citman; so long as you're not losing coolant don't worry too much. Put some newspaper under the bonnet where the overflow pipe runs so you can easily spot any leaks.
When I changed the coolant on my 306 I inadvertantly opened the lower bleed screw before the rad had emptied (momentary loss of concentration on my part) and was treated to a jet of coolant up my sleeve! I'd expect the middle bleed screw to easily clear the car :-)
Have you tried giving the system a damn good flushing to see if it's clogged up with gunk? I believe that to fully flush the head you need to temporarily remove the thermostat.
CITMAN
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Post by CITMAN »

A tip JR to see if your losing coolant. Get a small plastic bag with no holes in it obviously. Hook it up to your coolant overflow pipe properly using a cable tie or something similar. Ensure that its well away from moving parts of the engine such as alternator, power steering belt. When you drive the car if its pressurising i.e. losing coolant it ll appear in the bag.
If it does its either that your coolant pressure cap is knackered or your cooling system is presurising which may mean that at worst its the head gasket or head joint problem.
JR
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Post by JR »

There are definitely know air locks in the system - through practice I have mastered the plastic bottle/header tank system.
It's not the water pump as there is a good shooting motion going on there.
It's not the temp gauge - this has already been replaced and the coolant level has not dropped in the last three months.
In vain, the cooling system is doing its job, but it is straining and has been for the last 8 months - poor cooling fan is really over worked!!
I am trying to establish why the engine is getting so hot in the first place, which is why I'm thinking it could be a faulty coolant senor(attached to cylinder head) which feeds info to the ECU on the temperature of the engine. Or perhaps the ECU itself is knackered.
Do you think it's worth having the ECU and the sensors checked out, if so can anyone recommend a decent ECU testing kit?
cheers, JR
arry_b
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Post by arry_b »

Is the fan connected up the right way so it sucks air through the radiator? Unlikely to be wrong, but I have seen it before.
fewkesd
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Post by fewkesd »

I have a 106 Xl 1996 and the heater blower has gone. I am told that I will have to strip the dash to get to it. Can anyone confirm that this is only way to gain access to the heater motor. What is the cost of a new motor
solara
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Post by solara »

I would check the coolant temperature sensor.
Seeing as you've changed everything else, you may as well give this a go.
Are you sure this feeds via the ECU to the dash temp gauge? My diesel doesn't have an ECU, and it is fed direct.
I wouldn't blame ECU if you are getting a reading on the temp gauge. Thermal sensors are more likely to go out of calibration with age.
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