squeeeeeek

This is the Forum for all your Citroen Technical Questions, Problems or Advice.

Moderator: RichardW

picassodad
Posts: 207
Joined: 04 Oct 2018, 14:26
x 9

squeeeeeek

Post by picassodad »

Hi all, hope you had a good xmas and all the very best to you for 2019.

As title, a squeak from the aux drive belt area. Please could admin post the parts diagram exploded view of the aux drive belt stuff for the lads car please.

Admin still has the info for the model, a 2003 xsara picasso 1.8 dohc petrol, ew7j4 engine ( 6fz )

The diagram is needed to show whats what and whats involved, and , hopefully, if the auto drive belt tensioner is remove able/refit able with the engine in situe.

I think I have seen a picture on here, the auto tensioner pulley lever pivots on a shaft with needle roller bearings??

I will try and hunt down that thread which may take some time....
picassodad
Posts: 207
Joined: 04 Oct 2018, 14:26
x 9

Re: squeeeeeek

Post by picassodad »

Ok seen my earlier thread page 6 near bottom, but parts exploded view would be helpful, and, is the auto tensioner removable with engine in situe please
User avatar
GiveMeABreak
Forum Admin Team
Posts: 25415
Joined: 15 Sep 2015, 19:38
x 2831

Re: squeeeeeek

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Here you go
5BEEEA60-DAFD-412A-B6E0-3DA6AB268A9F.jpeg
picassodad
Posts: 207
Joined: 04 Oct 2018, 14:26
x 9

Re: squeeeeeek

Post by picassodad »

Oh brill, printing off now. Happy new year by the way, way tooooo late for "clennig"

Judging by the length of the 2 retaining bolts, it looks as if the auto adjuster can be removed with the engine in situ, hopefully !

The lads picasso has a different cable/wire arrangement to the alternator, the large dia main charge lead is there held by a nut, but the smaller lead, on his, seems to be a 2 wire affair and a plastic block type connection??

Will be seeing the picasso this afternoon for an hour or 2, so will take a picture of the alternator to try and find its make and model. Anyone know where I can get replacement brushes for an alternator?? IO have seen a fairly recent thread on new alternator brushes, but cannot remember where???

The car has been behaving but yesterday he says it only just about started. I am thinking maybe the alternator needs new brushes ?

The engine to chassi main earth lead still needs sorting as well as the 2 earths behind the abs block, but the lad needs the car for work daily. Just hoping it will get him to work and home until his next days off, in about a week, then I can have it for a day or 2.
User avatar
GiveMeABreak
Forum Admin Team
Posts: 25415
Joined: 15 Sep 2015, 19:38
x 2831

Re: squeeeeeek

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Don't get too hung up on the alternator shown in the picture - there are about 10 variants of these that were fitted to this model!

The best way as you already mentioned is to check the model number / codes on the original alternator itself and replace with like for like.

The part number is 5705KY.

Plenty of brushes available on the bay:

https://www.ebay.ie/dsc/i.html?_sacat=0 ... hes&_frs=1
picassodad
Posts: 207
Joined: 04 Oct 2018, 14:26
x 9

Re: squeeeeeek

Post by picassodad »

Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!
sparksie
Donor 2016
Posts: 595
Joined: 04 Jan 2014, 23:35
x 32

Re: squeeeeeek

Post by sparksie »

Slow starting is almost always blamed on battery or alternator issues.
However, as you've hinted at, it's often down to the wiring being unable to carry the high current required for starting.
Leave a multimeter attached to the battery and watch the voltage when cranking. It will drop dramatically, but probably not fall below 10.5-11V. If it goes lower, then continue investigating the battery and alternator, keeping in mind that the starter might be stiff, or shorted, which will draw more current than it should, with similar symptoms.
If the voltage stays in the acceptable range, but cranking is slow, the wiring is suspect.
If you can, measure voltage at the large stud on the starter solenoid, again while cranking. Please be careful doing anything around an engine in motion, even if only cranking.
Keep everything away from moving parts!
If the voltage observed at the starter solenoid is the same, or only very slightly lower, the positive lead is ok.
Put the meter lead back on the positive post and use the engine block as the negative meter connection.
Again, measure cranking volts. If this is the same, then the grounding is ok and you're looking at a sick starter.
If, however, either of the suggested tests produces significantly different values from those found at the battery, you have a bad connection, or a dud lead. Correcting that will solve your slow starting. You can even prove your diagnosis, before dismantling anything, by putting a jump lead in parallel with the suspect lead. If it starts better with a jump lead from battery negative to block, you need to correct the grounding. If a lead from battery positive to the starter solenoid stud (this can be tricky to do) improves things, repair/replace the main positive lead.
Good luck
picassodad
Posts: 207
Joined: 04 Oct 2018, 14:26
x 9

Re: squeeeeeek

Post by picassodad »

Thanks sparksie,

Those not in the "know" are now, which can only be good. See new Non Starter thread for pictures of what we have found so far, a defo bed connection.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=61622&p=596610#p596610
Last edited by GiveMeABreak on 03 Jan 2019, 12:34, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Included Thread Link