1.9 Td Xantia Bosch injector pump leaking

[sparksie]

Hi all

It has been a very long time and circumstances have changed quite a lot, but I'm still around and throwing an eye over things on the rare occasions I have internet access.
Hoping that's about to improve!
I have a little problem with Cit that I have not had personal experience of before.
She's always started at the first try, despite a year long layup, outside.
All that changed in Feb, when I decided to move her to a more sheltered location, with a view to fitting the spheres I've had waiting.
Suddenly she didn't want to know.
I established there was no fuel at the injectors, so I dug in to the armour plating and checked the stop solenoid, but that was working.
With a sinking feeling, I fitted a primer bulb in place of the non-return valve, so as to be able to pressurise the fuel system and found there is a leak in the injector pump, presumably on the suction side.
Never having opened one of these myself, I'm a bit wary and I'd like to check it out on paper/on line before going much further.
I always sent pumps out for professional rebuilding, but that won't be an option this time, so I'm really hoping some of you guys can advise, or point me to where I can get information.
At the moment, when I pump up the system I can initially hear air escaping, then diesel starts dripping from the bottom of the injector pump, about half way along. I can't see where it's coming from, so I think it must be on the block side of the pump. It's not coming from the throttle spndle, nor the shaft, as far as I can tell. I'd hate to take it off and then discover I could have fixed it in situ.
I'm working in the open, very exposed to the elements, so quick fixes are very welcome.
I can bodge it on this occasion, simply because I need to move her into shelter, but I'd rather do it properly if there's a way...
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance

[CitroJim]

This will get you started:

http://www.eastment.net/boschpump1.htm

And also look for threads on here by KennyW and MikeT

Both have written excellent guides on this job...

I wish you every success

[ekjdm14]

On the subject of bodging her for the purposes of getting to shelter, you could try and old school "clickety clackety" points type lift pump to keep the main pump supplied (albeit dripping) long enough to drive it into your sheltered workspace.

Working on a pump out in the open is really a no-go anyway, so hope you can work something out. Just a thought though before any bodging or repairs are done, have you checked the inlet & outlet banjo joints are tight & the hoses from them aren't split? Just had a return line split on our Black car not long ago, not near the pump but the whole pipe was brittle and could've gone porous.

[sparksie]

On the subject of bodging her for the purposes of getting to shelter, you could try and old school "clickety clackety" points type lift pump to keep the main pump supplied (albeit dripping) long enough to drive it into your sheltered workspace

Hi

Thanks, but she wont start even while pumping my temporary primer bulb, so I doubt that will help.
A further complication is, while cranking, the suspension "woke up" and went half way through its "morning yoga", so now the rear is on the floor and the nose is up, meaning I cant even push her and use the starter for the difficult bits, because the ground is uneven and she'll foul.
I have to get her running for long enough to sort that out, before taking the pump off, if at all possible.
The banjos are both tight with new copper washers, the hoses were a bit hard, but not brittle and the fuel doesn't appear to be coming from there.
The thing is, this seems quite a catastrophic failure, which happened in the course of a 2 or 3 week period standing, so I agree that it must be something perishable, rather than wear and tear.
It's been so long since I had one off and I paid it so little attention, I can't picture what's down the concealed side that might have failed.
If it was a carb, I'd be thinking accelerator pump diaphragm, but as it is...
As regards working in the open, that's how it is nowadays. The shelter I'm aiming for is simply less exposed to wind and any precipitation will stop play.
Once I have the pump off, things will be a bit better. I can take that indoors and work on it sitting at a bench, with a light and magnifier at hand and a heater beside me, relics of a different, now dead trade.
Thanks for the link to the seal replacement procedure.
When I get that far, that's going to be a lifesaver!
Cit's pump differs from that one in a number of ways, but I'll cope. The armour on this one has a roll pin, driven in from the concealed side, that has to come out before the armour will come away, even after all bolts have been removed and it's jiggling tantalisingly.
The immobiliser itself is much smaller and attached to the inside of the armour, rather than the pump.
The exterior of the pump looks, cosmetically at least, different too, but unless this is flagging any hazards for anyone, I'll assume the procedure is basically the same and I'll laminate a few pages of instructions for myself before I start.

Thanks guys

[Hell Razor5543]

Is there any reason not to put a heavy duty feed onto the battery to allow you to spin the starter motor for a minute or two? While this may not get her to start it should, with any luck, pressurise the hydro-pneumatics enough to get her back onto a level keel, so you could, if you had to, push/tow her to a more suitable location.

[sparksie]

Hi James

I don't want to burn the starter out. With my current budget, that would write the car off.
I never run a starter under load for more than 15 seconds at a time. As a rule of thumb, if the starter is too hot to hold in your hand, you're doing damage. With diesels and their high compression, that works out around 15 seconds cranking and 15 minutes rest.
Usually the starter never spins long enough to wake the hydraulics. The engine always fires after 2 or 3 seconds when cold. Less than a second when warm. This cranking business is totally alien to Cit!