Hi all,
Took the BX in for it's MOT test and as expected they failed it on leaking front struts(despite the fact that the leaking is actually my attempt at solving the creaking...they never picked up on the creaking), front brake pads, which I knew about and excessive wear in the rear trailing arm bearings.
Now I'm no expert and would like your input on this... There is absolutely no negative camber on either rear wheel and having jacked it up and checked for play there is absolutely no gie in any part no matter how hard I try to get a bit of play.
What are they on about...have i totally misunderstood the definition of shot rear arm bearings, or are they just pulling a fast one?
There is quite a bit of wear on the rear tyres, but no more than expected for the mileage they've covered, and the majority is on the outer edge suggesting(if anything)too much positive camber[?]
Your input on this point chaps would be greatly appreciated.
I've been out with the jetwash and degreaser and have got rid of every trace of oil from the struts, do you think I'm risking it by taking it back withoput new struts? Incidentially since jet washing the struts go up and down beautifully.
One more point(nearly finished)... I've just been out counting the ticks. On standard driving height setting the ticks occur at 20 second intervals, and at the lowest setting this figure remains unchanged. What is the underlying problem do you think?
thanks chaps
BX MOT trauma
Moderator: RichardW
Have the arm bearings been changed recently, or while these tyres were on ?
May be worth getting a new set of rear tyres before putting it through, then they'd have to check by physically pulling things and checking the alignment, rather than just looking at the tyres ( which they may have done to save time ).
May be worth getting a new set of rear tyres before putting it through, then they'd have to check by physically pulling things and checking the alignment, rather than just looking at the tyres ( which they may have done to save time ).
If the ticking interval remains unchanged in normal/lowest height setting - then it's likely an acc sphere - not front struts leaking [:)]
By far the acc sphere is the simplest & cheapest first option - as it's the most common problem.
Since your front struts does not seem to be leaking (check flow from strut hoses at normal height !) - then it's not worth the hassle overhauling the struts.
Instead use "Doctor's mix" to lube the struts :
2 spoonfulls standard ballbearing grease
5 squirts of 5W or 10W engine oil
1-2 teaspoon of silicone lube (those small bottles with a brush in the cap)
Mix well to get an even substance - it should just BARELY not/be able to flow by itself. Adjust the substance with silicone fluid.
The amount should reach to fill a small injection needle (4cL) 2 times.
Then inject one needle full each strut - some patience over a couple of days - and any jerking/binding in struts are gone.
"Doctors mix" won't flow down over the strut and reach the brakes.
Makes miracles - my spine tells me so [8D]
By far the acc sphere is the simplest & cheapest first option - as it's the most common problem.
Since your front struts does not seem to be leaking (check flow from strut hoses at normal height !) - then it's not worth the hassle overhauling the struts.
Instead use "Doctor's mix" to lube the struts :
2 spoonfulls standard ballbearing grease
5 squirts of 5W or 10W engine oil
1-2 teaspoon of silicone lube (those small bottles with a brush in the cap)
Mix well to get an even substance - it should just BARELY not/be able to flow by itself. Adjust the substance with silicone fluid.
The amount should reach to fill a small injection needle (4cL) 2 times.
Then inject one needle full each strut - some patience over a couple of days - and any jerking/binding in struts are gone.
"Doctors mix" won't flow down over the strut and reach the brakes.
Makes miracles - my spine tells me so [8D]
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I must have it pretty bad...I currently own 2 BX estates, the most recent addition to the collection is just not as quick as my trusty(albeit leaky strut)grey one.
I would rather sell the new one with 2 minute interval ticks than be without 20 second ticking grey one.
The mix sounds wonderful anders, but where do you inject it and how long does it take to work/last?
Failing that I was thinking of buying struts from the scrappy and rebuilding them.
the car also failed on an imbalance in the brakes(greater than 25% apparently), surely if this was the case then the car would pull under heavy braking? Simply it doesn't![:(]
I'm well and truly annoyed, unfortunately the testing station I've used for years couldn't book me in for 2 weeks. It looks as though the monkeys at the garage I used thought they'd take me for a ride...Arseholes![}:)]
I would rather sell the new one with 2 minute interval ticks than be without 20 second ticking grey one.
The mix sounds wonderful anders, but where do you inject it and how long does it take to work/last?
Failing that I was thinking of buying struts from the scrappy and rebuilding them.
the car also failed on an imbalance in the brakes(greater than 25% apparently), surely if this was the case then the car would pull under heavy braking? Simply it doesn't![:(]
I'm well and truly annoyed, unfortunately the testing station I've used for years couldn't book me in for 2 weeks. It looks as though the monkeys at the garage I used thought they'd take me for a ride...Arseholes![}:)]
Oh dear....this particular testing station sounds as if it's run by gentlemen in large hats with fuel-tank capacities.
Rear arm bearings - quite how MOT testers assess these is beyond me. Did the tyres have the classic uneven wear after all? A pair of new or swapped-over tyres does work wonders for "first impressions" - which is what this garage seems to be going on. If there's no play and no restriction on the radius arm movement then it may be worth asking the exact reason for failure.
Brakes - well, if the pads are on the way out you could have one biting a fraction before the others - I've also experienced this with worn BX front pads - but only noticeable on very heavy braking - and with a set of poor-quality tyres (now thankfully replaced).
Discs may need a clean too - and removal of any corrosion "lip". Calipers could be getting a bit mucky too. A set of new pads and a disc clean-up, followed by the good old BX manual handbrake adjustment should do the trick.
If the struts don't have any evidence of a leak after the jet-washing then I'd go with them as they are. On my BX it made a noticeable difference to ride smoothness once I'd cleaned the strut outers of accumulated road grime and mud that had crept under the strut boot - and that was before I'd greased them (very lightly!).
Good luck. Sometimes I think it'd be worth having a register of "Citroen-friendly" or even "Citroen-unfriendly" MOT testers, though this would probably be a bit of a no-no on the legal front.
Rear arm bearings - quite how MOT testers assess these is beyond me. Did the tyres have the classic uneven wear after all? A pair of new or swapped-over tyres does work wonders for "first impressions" - which is what this garage seems to be going on. If there's no play and no restriction on the radius arm movement then it may be worth asking the exact reason for failure.
Brakes - well, if the pads are on the way out you could have one biting a fraction before the others - I've also experienced this with worn BX front pads - but only noticeable on very heavy braking - and with a set of poor-quality tyres (now thankfully replaced).
Discs may need a clean too - and removal of any corrosion "lip". Calipers could be getting a bit mucky too. A set of new pads and a disc clean-up, followed by the good old BX manual handbrake adjustment should do the trick.
If the struts don't have any evidence of a leak after the jet-washing then I'd go with them as they are. On my BX it made a noticeable difference to ride smoothness once I'd cleaned the strut outers of accumulated road grime and mud that had crept under the strut boot - and that was before I'd greased them (very lightly!).
Good luck. Sometimes I think it'd be worth having a register of "Citroen-friendly" or even "Citroen-unfriendly" MOT testers, though this would probably be a bit of a no-no on the legal front.
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thanks chaps,
Having completed the clean up I'm going to fit the new pads(put the zx volcane wheels and new tyres off the other BX on and take it back for the re-test.
The imbalance is apparently at the front, although I'm not entirely sure which side. One would presume they were talking about the near side, because this was the side with the leak..ties in nicely doesn't it![:(!]
I'll lightly re-grease the struts and see if this improves things.
Having completed the clean up I'm going to fit the new pads(put the zx volcane wheels and new tyres off the other BX on and take it back for the re-test.
The imbalance is apparently at the front, although I'm not entirely sure which side. One would presume they were talking about the near side, because this was the side with the leak..ties in nicely doesn't it![:(!]
I'll lightly re-grease the struts and see if this improves things.