overfill gear oil

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monsak
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overfill gear oil

Post by monsak »

Hi
What is the adverse effect if gear oil is overfill ?
Is it nessesery to drin gear oil in case that it overfill ?
thanks
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Excess gearoil is then seeping out the clutch end of input axle - possibly oil contaminating your clutch. Which positively means a new clutch - in turn removing the gearbox for replacing.
You don't say what model/year - but never mind [;)]
I suppose you have an XU engine variant with a mating BE3 gearbox variant. These boxes in most cases have a filler/level plug on end housing reached from LHS wheel arch.
You've used this plug for filling ??
You're supposed to fill untill the gearoil just exactly does NOT flow out again from this plug hole - which it always does anyway - indicating correct level is obtained.
If you did'nt fill here - then you have to find this plug.
It's either a flat 19mm head - or a round flat head with an 8mm square insert hole - clearly with a cupper (or ALU) washer visible under the head.
Do NOT try any of the other bolts - as some would be the gearchange plunger spring retaining bolts - a disaster to remove by mishap.
If you need to drain - then you find a drain plug in the diff at bottom - angled towards rear of car.
monsak
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Post by monsak »

Hi Anders
Thanks for your reply.I will give more information about my car.It is Xantia 95 non hydrative with anti-sink system , Automatic transmision(4HP type). I fill gearoil via a dipstick tube that use to measure gearoil level. I still not understand that if I left excess gearoil in gearbox does it damage my gearbox or not? And in 4HP type transmission, Is it has a plug that you mention in your reply?
Thanks again
PS: I post some question about abnormal front height after repair front corrector, Do you remember me? I remove front corrector and its linkage and clean it. And now everything is fine,Thanks for your advice in that post again.
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

HOLD EVERYTHING & STOP [:0][:0]
This is one the best examples why it is SOooo important to inform your model/year right of in first posting [xx(][xx(]
An automatic gearbox is a <font color="red"><i><b>totally</b></i></font id="red"> different specie [:0]
<font color="red"><i>FORGET the words in my first posting !</i></font id="red">
First : automatic gearboxes uses Dexron type II (ATF) transmission fluid.
<font color="red"><i>Never use standard gearoil any kind !</i></font id="red">
Next : the autobox fluid level is always checked with engine/transmission at normal/work temperature.
The gearbox sump has a drain plug at underside of front bottom.
Drain the ATF fluid here - then refill 2.4L exactly.
Now it's a good time to observe if the fluid/box has been overheated - as this is indicated by the fluid having a somewhat more brown than red colour impression - and clearly smells burnt.
In any case - do NOT re-use the fluid. ATF fluid is readily available all over the world at very reasonable cost.
Let the engine idle untill engine & transmission is at normal working temperature - then check the ATF fluid level again (engine stopped).
Be VERY carefull topping up with SMALL amounts - and give the box adequate time to "sink" the fluid - before checking the dipstick.
What actually happens overfilling an autobox I don't really know - but all over in descriptions/manuals you always find repeated warnings against overfilling - which by my long car DIY experience tells me it has to be obeyed promptly.
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Post by Dave Burns »

I'm not saying this will happen to this type of box but overfilling with oil can burst the gearbox casing in some rare instances, I heard of one such case years ago on an old crash box.
The gears can start to act like an oil pump when they are deeply immersed in oil, this condition usually only affects a manual transmition though as the gear arrangement is different.
Dave
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Post by James.UK »

I read somewhere that overfilling the Autobox On a ZX will cause damage to its oil seals and result in seriously leaking..
I sugest you do as Anders recomends, drain the box, and refill with the correct amount of fresh oil..
Unfortunatley its very hard to get a good reading on my dipstick as the fluid is almost totaly transparent, and it seems to run back down the dipstick as you look at it!! [:I] The 'old' fluid as used in my prev cars was red in colour and much easier to check..
I have also read that you should check with the engine running in order to let the torque converter fill? otherwise the fluid drains out of it and you get a much higher reading on your dipstick?
My ZX starts to "hiccup" or becomes a bit hesitant changing gears when slightly down on fluid. At the first sign of this I top up with approx 1/3 of a litre of fliud and hope. [:I] its then fine for a few K's.. More explicit information would be nice to have, but to date, I haven't been able to find any..
Forget "Haynes" their system involves adding a thimblefull then running round the block and repeating untill it looks right? [:0] that could take all day! and you could still get the level wrong. [:0]
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Post by AndersDK »

James - I can't imagine that any car manufacturer advices on fluid checking with a running engine.
It would simply be too dangerous for the average non-tech minded owners - which to be fair is the majority of car owners.
Imagine a hand near/on the generator belt - while leaning over to have a look [:0]
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Post by wheeler »

the correct procedure for checking the oil levei on a 4HP auto box is-
1.get the engine hot (gearbox temperature approx 80 C).
2.foot on the brake,move gear lever through all gears.
3.put vehicle in P or N
4.with engine idling & on level ground check the level on the dipstick is between Max & Min marks,there is a difference of 0.5 litres between Max & Min.
if the oil level is too high it may cause abnormal heating of the oil or oil leaks.
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Post by James.UK »

Hi Anders, I agree it sound very iffy! [:0] But on my old 'S' type Jag you not only had to have it running but it had to be in gear in order to check the auto gearbox levels! You also had to have it running to "match up" the twin carbs, a job that needed doing about every 3,000 miles. [:(!] cars were exciting to work on in those days. [:D] Its probably where I got into the habit of working on mine with the engine running. Well thats my excuse anyway. [:I] lol..
Quote from Haynes Service Manual. Citroen ZX DIESEL - 91 to 98..(Page 1.8 Section 12 - 'Automatic transmission fluid level check')
1.. Take the car on a short journey to warm the transmission up to normal operating temerature, then park the vehicle on level ground. Leave the engine idling and move the selector lever to the park position. The fluid level is checked using a dipstick located at the front of the engine compartment directly in front of the engine transmission unit.
2.. With the engine idling move the selector lever through all the gear positions, stopping briefly at each position, then return the selector to the P position. With the slelctor lever returned to the P position withdraw the dipstick from the tube and wipe all fluid from its end with a clean rag. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it once more. Note the fluid level on the end of the dipstick. On medels with 2 notches on the dipstick the level should be between the upper and lower marks. On models with three notches on the stick, the level should be between the two upper marks.
3.. If topping up is necessary add the required quantity of the fluid via the dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine mesh gauze to avoid spilling. <b>NOTE</b> never overfill the automatic transmission so that the fluid level is above the upper level on the dipstick.
4.. After topping up, take the vehicle on a short run to distibute the fresh fluid, then re-check the level again, topping up if necessary.
5.. Always maintain the level between the two dipstick marks. If the level is allowed to fall below the lower mark, fluid starvation may result, which could lead to severe transmission damage.
END of quote..
As you can see topping up is a very hit and miss affair, and as you so rightly point out, it is also rather an 'unsafe procedure' [:0].. I notice it doesn't even sugest putting the hand brake on? !! on an auto with the engine running?? "health and safety" would have a fit!! You better be quick on your feet thats for sure! lol.. I usually choc the front wheels as well. I made some big wooden wedges just for that purpose..
All in all its unsafe, complicated, and takes a long time, just not a satisfactory way to measure the fluid level in a gear box, but unfortunately I cant find a more reliable way to do it.. [V]
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Post by edd001 »

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by AndersDK</i>

James - I can't imagine that any car manufacturer advices on fluid checking with a running engine.
It would simply be too dangerous for the average non-tech minded owners - which to be fair is the majority of car owners.
Imagine a hand near/on the generator belt - while leaning over to have a look [:0]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
hi anders just to let you know that dipping the auto box while engine is running is the correct way to do it on toyotas so i would imagine that some other companys have done the same.
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Convinced [:I]
Thanks lighting up my ignorance guys [8D]
Hope I never grow too old to learn more [:o)]
James.UK
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Post by James.UK »

Anders, you are neither ignorant nor did we teach you anything worth knowing.. It's the system of checking the oil that is at fault here, you are dead right, working over a running engine is dangerous and no manufacturer should be making this necessary.. :-(
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