ZX TD :-))))

Post by **RichardW** » 20 Feb 2004, 12:58

Bought a ZX TD last night [:D] (Company forced me into buying a 2nd car [:(]).
95M, 110k, pulls well, no smoke. £450!!
Couple of niggles though:
1. Dash bulbs - who wants to see how fast they're going anyway. Better buy a BOL!
2. Sloppy gear change - the lever is very sloppy side-to-side - I assume this is the infamous link? Which is it (and do GSF sell it)?
3. Wet carpet in passenger footwell [:0][:0] - no smell of coolant, even when heater hot, so pretty sure I will not be taking the dash out next week - where else do they leak?
I've only driven it a short test, but I think I see what you all rave about[:D]. My wife thinks SHE is going to get to drive it. HA!![}:)]

Homer · Post by **Homer** » 20 Feb 2004, 13:38

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by RichardW</i>

3. Wet carpet in passenger footwell <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Does it have a factory fit sunroof? If it does the drains tend to get blocked, you usually wind up with a wet passenger seat as well.

Post by **Jon** » 20 Feb 2004, 13:58

Good work fella.
The sloppy gearchange bit. If you can get under the car see if theres any play at the bottom of the actual gearlever where it fixes to the long rod, there are 2 small bushes (Cit 254047)that wear out. You probably also need to replace the spindle (245537)and nut (693586) that goes through the middle of these bushes.
Under the bonnet I've had trouble with the one of the 3 selector rods on the back of the g/box (once did a "racing" change from 1st to 2nd and it popped off leaving me stuck!!). Its the longer one that I had to replace, 245275 which is £14.87. Examine all of them for excessive play in the ballcups.
As regards the dashbulbs, not the end of the World really. Just fiddly. I'm sure someone has posted on here before about various ways of doing this job, if the car is the non airbag type thats a bonus as you can take off the steering wheel to give yourself more room. The only hassle is getting the speedo cable back on, as I have fairly small hands I removed the heater vent and snaked my arm through that way!!

Paulee · Post by **Paulee** » 20 Feb 2004, 15:57

Hi
the passenger footwell on my Volcane used to fill up with water (2-3 inches) and I traced it to the well under the bonnet on the passenger side near the bonnet hinge.The well was filing up and water was coming in through a cable entry.
I took a gromett out and the water then drains away under the wing and cured my problem.

James.UK · Post by **James.UK** » 20 Feb 2004, 16:09

Re water.. My ZX had a leak via the screen rubber in the bottom right hand corner, used to make the floor wet on the drivers side. I sprayed it with silicone spray while running my thumbnail along just lifting the rubber.. Its been ok ever since..

Post by **RichardW** » 18 Mar 2004, 13:16

It was dry and light when I got home last night so I got the ZX on the ramps and had a look at the gearchange. There's a lot of wear in the main for/aft shaft where it attaches to the gear lever (hole is about 3x its original size...) and the spindle is worn away to about 1/4 its original diameter. Eeek!! Urgent job now then (only 'cos I know about it)! Haynes says drop this bolt out then 'disengage the selector rod from the bell crank' Is it really as easy as that? Is there a bush or something at the bell crank that can be replaced, as there seems to be quite a bit of play here too? At the very least need to get the gear lever end sorted this weekend, otherwise it's soon going to be undriveable with no gear selection!

Post by **RichardW** » 22 Mar 2004, 13:46

Right, I got the new spindle and bushes in (there was no wear in the old bushes - I had to saw the bolt off, apply the blow lamp and a big hammer to get the bolt and bushes out of the gear lever!) I couldn't work out how to 'pop' off the middle of the three ball joints on the back of the gear box though so I could take out the main selector shaft and weld it up. Anyone got any tips as the best direction to go in from / tool to use? I suspect that I need to get the air cleaner out (I changed the element in this whilst I had it on the ramps - probably the dirtiest air filter I have ever seen!) to go in over the clutch - bolts look pretty rusty on that though..... Still the change is nice and tight now with the new bolt tightened up against the fork, but I guess I should weld up the hole so it doesn't start floating about again.

David W · Post by **David W** » 22 Mar 2004, 18:55

Richard,
Do you mean the gear change rods we talked about failing the other week? The ones that actually go to the gearbox balljoints?
If so these can be resistant to the most amazing force. You think the bush will pull apart before they come off. I work from the top under the bonnet and use a crowbar with a forked end that will go either side of the ball to give an even force on the link rod. Then I put a block of wood onto the gearbox to give firm support and a correct leverage ratio. Using a sudden force rather than an ever increasing pull it should pop off. I often use a 4lb lump hammer and hit the crowbar which gives the required shock.
BTW I've mailed you via this forum but not sure how/if it works...has it arrived?
David

Post by **Jon** » 23 Mar 2004, 02:29

Those pesky gearchange rods!
I usually use a 12mm open end spanner as a lever under the balljoint bit, and below it a pair of mole grips to give the spanner something to lever against, they then usually give in.

Post by **RichardW** » 23 Mar 2004, 13:51

Thanks guys - looks like I just need to apply a bit more 'persuasion'...
David - have not got an e-mail from you - the forum mail seems a bit temperamental (was it built by Citroen?)
Try again: richardwest at myactiveware.com or richard.west at jacobs.com