Xantia Rear Window Wiring Diagram!

[Grum]

Hi,

I have just had to join this forum to ask this, which is strange, as I was sure I had joined some time back but anyway...

I have an 1998 Xantia Exclusive and one of the rear windows has stopped working. I tried to trace the fault using a Haynes Manual. There are window wiring diagrams for front and rear for cars up to 1998 but only wiring diagram for the front windows for vehicles 1998 and after, which appears to be what I need, but I need the rear window diagram.
I hope the above makes sense. How typical is it that whenever I need information from a manual, it either doesn't have the information I need or it says refer to dealer!

I am wondering if there is anyone on this forum that might have a wiring diagram for the rear windows that they could get to me somehow or point me in the right direction to see one. I have looked on the internet without luck.

Initially I thought it was the winder motor that had failed and have removed the unit from the car but as a test, I pluged the wiring from the drivers window motor to it and it worked. ... So I am assuming that the unit is ok and it is a problem with the wiring somewhere, although I am not sure because there are a lot of connection pins on the motor unit and when I looked at the wiring socket's to the fron't and rear windows, the pin-outs are different! ... Again, I hope this makes sense!

I have had this car for quite a few years now and used to run it on WVO, until it failed to start a few times. I assumed the reason was because the Injection pump had started to leak and was making one hell of a mess of everything under the bonnet. Also a fuse kept blowing, so In the end I stopped using the car and have had it sitting in a lock-up for years... During this time I re-built the pump but also found the insulation on the wires in the harness from the pump to the ECU had been breaking up, which was probably the cause of the fuse blowing and I had assumed was the cause of the car failing to start ... (The pump is an EPIC by the way!) yes I know I shouldn't have been running WVO on this pump but I did and for quite some time ... Anyway, I not only re-built the pump but made-up a new wiring harness/loom for it. When I finally came to start the car after all my hard work, I found that it would not start when warm! ... This gave me greif for a long time and only recently have I traced it to the cut-off solenoid (Yes I know it sounds obvious!). I have bodged this by cutting it out of the cars cuircuitry and conecting it directly to the battery, with an in-line switch, which has cured the problem for now, until I have time to do a proper repair. I am desperate for a car at the moment which is what has prompted me to try a last ditched attempt at sorting the thing out, as I have been close to giving-up on it and getting rid but now I have it running and ready to take to get an MOT, I have this darn problem with the rear window. All I need to do for now, is to get the bloody window wound-up! Grrrrr

Sorry got a bit carried away with the cars history there!

... Heeeellllp

[elma]

Have you tried working it with both switches? Could just be a failed one.

You can just manually raise the window and jam it up with clothes pegs or a wedge of wood. It'll stay closed and pass an mot.

[CitroJim]

I can supply the necessary diagrams... Please give me a few hours/potentially day or so and I'll get them sorted for you. These will be the pukka diagrams, both schematic and physical (harness)

If I forget, remind me

EDIT: Good work on the EPIC

It' won't live long on WVO though... Still, you can always rebuild it again

[Timmo]

May sound silly but have you looked in the hinge area where the wires leave the car and enter the door, my rear speaker wasnt working in drivers side, wire had broken in the rubber tube,

[CitroJim]

May sound silly but have you looked in the hinge area where the wires leave the car and enter the door, my rear speaker wasnt working in drivers side, wire had broken in the rubber tube,

Good point Timmo, that's the usual place for them to go and it's a very good bet that's what's happened here

[Grum]

Hi People,

Thank you all for your replies and help. Sorry for not replying sooner but I have been away for the weekend and just got back. I did try at least 3 times to reply, from my mobile phone but I don't tend to use my mobile for anything more than phone calls and text's and none of the replies appeared on the forum for some reason.

Elma... Yes I have tried both switches and the child-lock switch and rapidly clicked them through there position's, in the vain hope that it might simply be a bad contact in one of the switches. Propping-up the window would be a last resort and I feel that while I am farting about, trying to do woodwork, to bodge, I may as well spend the time fixing the problem. but as you say, at least I could get my MOT!
CitroJim... Thank you very much for your offer of the diagrams, that would be brilliant, as I could then trace the fault. I beleive we have spoken before on this forum, maybe when I used it in the past, when I was trying to run on WVO or was it when I was re-building the pump or both!... I have decided not to use WVO in the car in future. Thank you for your compliment on the EPIC re-build.
Timmo... I did have a feel of the door hinge tube but it seemed to look ok. The problem occurred while the car was sitting in a lock-up & off the road, so I don't think this would be the problem, as the door hadn't been used during this time. I have wondered however if it may be due to a Mouse chewing through a wire somewhere, as the little bugger's had made nests in the boot and under the bonnet ... I picked one up in the boot of the car one day, with a load of what I thought was decomposing biodegradable Tesco carrier bags but was infact it's nest. It peed all over my hands as it fled ... Yuch! They have also made nests either side of the bulkhead, under the bonnet, at the bonnet hinge areas and one day I was leaning into the engine bay and this little face poped out of one of the nests, looking at me nose to nose. Anouther of the little blighters nibbled through the a 20Litre plastic container, full of WVO waste, which is now a sticky mess all over the rear end of my lockup ... Yuch If anyone knows of something I can use to help clean-up the stuff please let me know. I haven't found anything yet that removes it.

P.S.
Sorry about spelling etc as my Laptop is old and out of date and doesn't check spelling etc!

[CitroJim]

I'll get the diagrams to you later today Grum

[Grum]

Hi Jim, great stuff, thank you! ... Do you sleep?

[CitroJim]

Hi Jim, great stuff, thank you! ... Do you sleep?

Yes, occasionally Just about to fire up the scanner now Give me an hour... It's been a busy morning...

[CitroJim]

Here we go Grum

Rear Windows Schematic

Rear Windows Harness Diagram

Rear Windows Locations Diagram

Hope that little lot helps you a bit

Let us know what you find...

[Grum]

Wow... Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!

Thank you kindly Jim!!

Yes, I'll study them tonight hopefully (Depends on how much more red-wine I consume) and get back to you, when I've had a liitle look at the car again!

[CitroJim]

Wow... Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!

Love it!!!

Grum, if you need any assistance with decyphering the symbols or annotations on the diagrams, just shout...

Of all the diagrams, the harness and location diagrams are the most valuable as they show how it is in practice and not in theory

The Haynes BoL (Book of Lies) contains a comprehensive list of component references... It's possibly the most valuable part of the BoL

[KennyW]

Grum,

Check the wiring at the boot hinge remove the protective rubber tubing, IIRC that's where it comes through.

Kenny

[Grum]

Good moaning and thank you again Jim.

I had a little brows of the diagrams last night and I should be able to trace the fault from them. One thing I would like to know at the moment, is which pins are what on the actual motor, as they are not marked on the actual motor and there are 8 pins on it but only 5 used! ... But I should be able to work it out with the help of the diagram, a circuit tester and tracing the wires back to the switch etc, then operate the window directly at the motor for now, to get it up.

I haven't quite worked out how to understand the harness diagram as yet but it will help once I print off the 3 diagrams and can study them properly, side by side.

Another thing I cannot work out for the moment, which maybe you know!... is what the markings beside connectors etc are. They look like voltage marks, although I assume they are not and that it is all 12Volts... for example: on the wires leaving the fuses on the fuse-box, they are marked 2V MR, 2V NR, 1V NR 13V OR etc!
It's probably obvious and I am not seeing the woods for the trees!

Anyway, going to go up and take a butchers in a bit hopefully... Watch this space!

[Grum]

Check the wiring at the boot hinge remove the protective rubber tubing, IIRC that's where it comes through.

Hi Kenny and thank's for your input.

I am a little confused as to why any wires from the boot could be an issue, as looking at wiring diagrams, all the wiring related to the rear window mechanisms run from the front of the car back and stop at the rear windows. ... Unless of course you are American and mixing bonnet with boot! or you mean the door hinge or bonnet hinge. You could possibly be onto something with the bonnet hinge area though, as thats where one of the Mouse nests is, which I haven't disturbed as yet, so it is possible that the little bugger has been having a little nibble there. I will have to have a look, although I cant believe that is where the problem lies, as the opposite rear window on the car works, therefore power is getting to that window and the power branch to the faulty window is within the car, if that makes sense!

P.S.
What does IIRC stand for?