2007 C2 1.4 Hdi Furio

[bonjour1971]

Hi All,

Recently bought a C2 1.4 Hdi Furio 2007. First few days ran great started first turn of key no issues. Noticed a noise each time it was revved holding at 2000 rpm sounded like a heat shield had come loose sort of noise.

Told it could be the water pump? So decided to change water pump and timing belt no different.

After further investigation turns out there were no bolts in fuel pump bracket which runs of the timing belt that was the rattle cause. Also kept coming up with a fault on display key fob battery needed changing low power battery kind of issue.

Since the timing belt has been changed and battery in key fob it wont start properly. Prior there was the noise but it started first turn of key but had key fob battery warning.

Now current status quo it won't start first turn of key. It starts after been turned over for ages and once running is fine although there does seem to be a slight chuffing noise (advised may be an injector)? Even prior to the above with injector chuff noise it still started first crank.

Even after turning over for ages once started runs ok if you leave running even for 10 mins and warm. But if you turn off and then try to re-start it is the same usual back to cranking for ages until it will fire up. Did a scan for DTC it came up with crank sensor faulty changed that yet it still takes ages to start even after been running.

Has anyone else had the same issue/s or does anyone out there have any idea what they hell it is?

[doctle]

In my limited experience I think the timing might be a little off

[ekjdm14]

It won't be pump timing on the HDi as it's common rail, (although there IS a locking pin hole on the pulley!) Our 206 had the pump a few teeth out when I came to do the belt but had always run fine.
It is however certainly worth double checking this and making sure it's in sync just to make sure, & as said it could be cam timing a tooth off.

My other thoughts are if the fuel pump has been disturbed (and no bolts point that somebody less than professional has been here before) there may be a tiny leak in a pipe union, just enough to allow air to be drawn in/fuel to drain back slightly while cold, but closing up when warm.
These engines won't begin to fire the injectors until a fuel pressure threshold is reached & if it's taking a while to build pressure then it won't start until it has. Could also be an issue with the pressure sensor itself (not entirely unknown).

For my money though, it'd need to go on Lexia to see what's happening when it struggles to start as otherwise it's a guessing game. What you could do though in the meantime is to try pumping the primer bulb if present, before attempting to start, and to go through all the fuel pipes & connectors making sure they're sealing properly, plus double check the connector on the pressure sensor is on correctly & not loose/dirty.

None of these will cost anything other than time & my advice would be if it's none of the above then to have a Lexia session before spending any more money on parts (generic code readers can be off the mark, and the live data regarding cranking speed/fuel pressure would be important to view too in this case as well. Lexia or a good clone is the only known reliable diagnostics tool for PSA vehicles, there is a list of people on here with the kit and willing to help so if you're lucky you might find somebody close by who could check things out rather than paying a garage to do so).

(one final thought, is to replace the fuel filter and open the old one up to check for any metallic particles, since the pump appears to have been disturbed before I'd say it was worth checking there's no debris still in the system from a previous pump failure.)

[Lighty]

It's worth pumping the fuel bulb before starting to see if this cures the issue. If not then it isn't a fuel leak.
Timing is a real possibility if it was ok prior to this.