[?]Help please! I have a 1.9TD Xantia SX for a short time and a couple of problems have occured. When I turn on the ignition (the car can be cold or hot and before I even start the car)the engine fan comes on at what sounds and feels like an amazingly fast speed. When she is driving the stop light comes on along with the temperature warning light even though the temperature never even reaches 75 degrees.
Second problem is that I have to push the internal fan switch all the way to the right to get any air out of it and then it is at full speed.
[:I]Finally (this is embarrassing) but there are three switches that I have no idea of what they do.The first is to the right (left of the steering wheel) of the rear window demister and hazard switches. The other two are at the same level on the dash but to the right of the steering wheel.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Xantia fan fault
Moderator: RichardW
The high speed cooling fan problem may be the 'Bitron' box at fault. Located around the NS headlamp i think.
The interior fan problem may be the 'Resitor' pack' located on the fan unit itself.
The fan unit is above the feet of the NSF footwell. Check for signs of water ingress to the unit. This is often caused by a split plastic scuttle panel below the front screen.
I think at least one of the switches turns off the ultrasonics. Goodluck!!
The interior fan problem may be the 'Resitor' pack' located on the fan unit itself.
The fan unit is above the feet of the NSF footwell. Check for signs of water ingress to the unit. This is often caused by a split plastic scuttle panel below the front screen.
I think at least one of the switches turns off the ultrasonics. Goodluck!!
The temperature and the cooling fans on all the time may be more sinister.
In the past, when I have had cooling problems and haven't yet sorted the problem, I have shorted out the coolant fan switch to have it working all the time (a common AA get you going approach). When cooling system problems or head gasket problems introduce an air lock in the system you can get 'localised' overheating (e.g. boiling in the engine but cooler in the radiator) - this may be your temperature warning light and apparent low temperature if they get temperature input from different areas. I have had this on my AX when I have been getting around to doing the head gasket; it is amazing how long you can keep a leaking head gasket going with full fan cooling and frequent topping up of the water. Beware.
Having said all that, on a Cit it is likely to be poor electrical contacts but it may well be worth checking out the cooling system properly. Are you borrowing or thinking of buying?
In the past, when I have had cooling problems and haven't yet sorted the problem, I have shorted out the coolant fan switch to have it working all the time (a common AA get you going approach). When cooling system problems or head gasket problems introduce an air lock in the system you can get 'localised' overheating (e.g. boiling in the engine but cooler in the radiator) - this may be your temperature warning light and apparent low temperature if they get temperature input from different areas. I have had this on my AX when I have been getting around to doing the head gasket; it is amazing how long you can keep a leaking head gasket going with full fan cooling and frequent topping up of the water. Beware.
Having said all that, on a Cit it is likely to be poor electrical contacts but it may well be worth checking out the cooling system properly. Are you borrowing or thinking of buying?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by alexx</i>
It may be also a bad connection between temperature sensor and 'Bitron' unit or a faulty sensor. On mine (1.8 16v), it's the middle one on the thermostat housing, brown in color. Upper (blue) is for the gauge, lower (green) for the ECU.
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most likely to be what alexx said,the cure is to wire the sensor direct to the bitron box (can remember the pin numbers off hand but i think its pin 1 of the sensor to pin 7 of the bitron & pin 2 to pin 14.the wiring takes a long route to get to the bitron,i think through the inner wing connector (n/s).
It may be also a bad connection between temperature sensor and 'Bitron' unit or a faulty sensor. On mine (1.8 16v), it's the middle one on the thermostat housing, brown in color. Upper (blue) is for the gauge, lower (green) for the ECU.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
most likely to be what alexx said,the cure is to wire the sensor direct to the bitron box (can remember the pin numbers off hand but i think its pin 1 of the sensor to pin 7 of the bitron & pin 2 to pin 14.the wiring takes a long route to get to the bitron,i think through the inner wing connector (n/s).