Peugeot Partner DW8 WJY Aux belt replacement - fixed

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RobSt
Posts: 1
Joined: 06 Feb 2017, 11:14
Location: North East
My Cars: Peugeot Partner Combi
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Peugeot Partner DW8 WJY Aux belt replacement - fixed

Post by RobSt »

My first post here. I have picked up quite a few tips from this forum, so I thought I'd offer one in the hope it might help someone else.

Perhaps there is an easier way to do this, perhaps I just found out a common way to do it, but I couldn't find quite the right info I needed on the internet for my engine, nor did my Haynes manual help fully.

I have a Partner Combi 02, DW8 WJY motor with PAS and A/C and was having difficulty replacing the auxilliary belt.

According to Haynes manual: from underneath, after releasing the manual tension pulley bolt, inserting a 7mm square tool and turning the pulley clockwise, the applied tension should push the spring tensioner pulley back enough to let you slip a 6mm bar/drill in the lined-up holes and lock it in place - no way was this going to happen for me.

I couldn't figure out how to push the spring tensioner back. It was suggested on this thread (https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... hp?t=40733) that a flat bar jammed through the belt under the sump and levered down should create enough tension to push the spring pulley back - but my belt was so shot that I think it would have snapped if I'd tried this.

With the help of a telescopic mirror I could see that my spring tensioner pulley was of the type that had an arm with a square hole in it - Haynes said this was to be used with a ratchet/bar to push the spring back, but could only be accessed with the belt off - but I could get to mine with the belt on! (perhaps the old belt was so stretched?). The square end of a 3/8" socket extension bar should fit in this hole, but I didn't have one of the right length, so had to make one by welding a short piece of 10mm square bar into an old cheap socket, total length about 1 3/4".

I also made 2 other simple tools for the job: a 7mm square key for the manual tensioner (made from an 8mm square door handle link bar with ~1" bent 90 deg and filed to 7mm square) and; a 6mm pin to lock the tensioner - just a ~12" length of 6mm round bar with 2" of it bent at 90 deg.

From above, I got the square socket in place (not something you can see, just have to feel for it), and wound it towards the front of the car to push the spring back. Unfortunately I couldn't get the 6mm holes lined up despite several attempts. So got round this by locking the ratchet in its furthest position with a screwdriver (see photo). This was all I needed to get on and remove and replace the belt (6pk1750).

I tensioned the belt by feel with the near 90 degree twist on the longest free length (plenty youtube videos on this).

Hope that helps someone, even if it's just reassurance on how to suck eggs!
Attachments
photo 2: simple tools I made up for the job
photo 2: simple tools I made up for the job
photo 1: ratchet (using a torque wrench because it was longer) pulled back and locked in place with screwdriver against body and timing belt cover (belt was removed before photo was taken).
photo 1: ratchet (using a torque wrench because it was longer) pulled back and locked in place with screwdriver against body and timing belt cover (belt was removed before photo was taken).
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