2005 C5 1.6 HDI non starter

[pd2444]

Hi,

Anyone got any pointers on a 2005 (Phase 2) C5 1.6 HDI which refuses to start?

It turns over OK but no sign of firing. Just suddenly started doing it. I have taken the fuse shunt out in an attempt to reset but didn't make any difference.

When you turn the ignition on the wipers give one sweep, the headlights flash and there is a click from under the bonnet. The click (which is quite loud and every half second or so) seems to be coming from what appears to be the EGR valve and there is a simultaneous click (relay?) coming from the fusebox area by the battery.

My first thought is the BSM (fusebox?) board which a Google seems to point to. These appear to be quite cheap used so tempted to just try one and see.

Anyone any other ideas?

[Hell Razor5543]

I would suggest arranging a Lexia session before spending any money. It is all too easy to try swapping parts in the hope that this will fix things. There is a list of Forum members with Lexias who are willing to help out;

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... 19&t=56452

[ekjdm14]

How good is your battery? This cold weather has a habit of finishing off a weaker unit & low voltage can cause all kinds of strange BSI issues. IIRC you can actually cause damage trying to start a car with a low battery through low voltage current spikes, first port of call for me would be to check/replace battery (assuming the BSI will still "sleep" to allow disconnection) and then as said, a look round with a lexia to see what if anything has been corrupted and if it's fixable without replacement of any parts. (if you did replace the BSI you'd still need a lexia session to program it most likely).

[wheeler]

The BSI requires Lexia coding/programing but the BSM that the OP was talking about doesent.

[pd2444]

I'm going to get it on Lexia tomorrow and find out what it is showing.

The battery seems OK in that it turns over plenty fast enough but I know that doesn't mean it's OK so will also try another battery.

Will report back tomorrow!

[pd2444]

Well, after much playing around with BSI resets and battery disconnects I did get it to start a couple of times but not reliably.

Everytime you turn the ignition on the wipers do one sweep and the lights flash.

Lexia will get as far as reading off the VIN code but will not communicate with the BSI or and other unit. Just says "No" on a global test to everything.

I'm guessing this means the BSI is goosed. I am right in thinking that the only way to fit a replacement off a used car is to swap the BSI, the ECU and the key/barrel all in one go?

Thanks.

[GiveMeABreak]

Well, after much playing around with BSI resets and battery disconnects I did get it to start a couple of times but not reliably.
Everytime you turn the ignition on the wipers do one sweep and the lights flash.
Lexia will get as far as reading off the VIN code but will not communicate with the BSI or and other unit. Just says "No" on a global test to everything.
I'm guessing this means the BSI is goosed. I am right in thinking that the only way to fit a replacement off a used car is to swap the BSI, the ECU and the key/barrel all in one go?
Thanks.

If you are going to replace it, you need a matched BSI, Engine ECU and Key (s) - you don't need the transponder barrel ring - that is just the transmitter of the signal. It is optional if you want to go to change the key barrel - if the keys from the donor are the fob type with buttons, you can transplant the chip module and components to your original fob (if the same type of course).

[pd2444]

Well, after much playing around with BSI resets and battery disconnects I did get it to start a couple of times but not reliably.
Everytime you turn the ignition on the wipers do one sweep and the lights flash.
Lexia will get as far as reading off the VIN code but will not communicate with the BSI or and other unit. Just says "No" on a global test to everything.
I'm guessing this means the BSI is goosed. I am right in thinking that the only way to fit a replacement off a used car is to swap the BSI, the ECU and the key/barrel all in one go?
Thanks.

If you are going to replace it, you need a matched BSI, Engine ECU and Key (s) - you don't need the transponder barrel ring - that is just the transmitter of the signal. It is optional if you want to go to change the key barrel - if the keys from the donor are the fob type with buttons, you can transplant the chip module and components to your original fob (if the same type of course).

Ah, thanks. The key is what I could only describe as the "big round blobby" remote key type with the 3 silver buttons on it. Is the transponder on the circuit board inside which has the battery attached to it (in which case it is a simple swap) or inside the actual key blade part?

I'd prefer not to swap the barrels as it looks a bit of a swine to get out.

[GiveMeABreak]

Yes the transponder chips are stored in the fob part not the blades.

[Paul-R]

Yes the transponder chips are stored in the fob part not the blades.

That's not quite true. Yes, it's not on the board with the plip buttons but it is inside the plastic bit which the metal blade goes into.

This is the chip

And it's about 10mm long or less.

I've been searching for image showing where it is exactly but can't find one. The best I can do is to show where it goes on the type of key that doesn't have a plip


On the ones with a plip it's inside the bit of plastic that flips out with the blade embedded. You don't get at it the same way as the above one but instead have to manoeuvre the flippy-out bit from the case and then the chip is underneath a small cover shaped like an "L"


I should qualify all the above by saying that this for the Mk1 C5. However I think the keys are much the same to look at, aren't they?

[GiveMeABreak]

Yes the transponder chips are stored in the fob part not the blades.

That's not quite true. Yes, it's not on the board with the plip buttons but it is inside the plastic bit which the metal blade goes into.

Paul - I was referring to the particular fob the OP mentioned "big round blobby" remote key type with the 3 silver buttons on it" They didn't have the other type of fob with the blade and plastic housing on these, so didn't bother mentioning it!

[Paul-R]

Yes but I only included a picture of that one because I couldn't find a better one for the plip fob. The one that I did find for the three button fob sort of shows where the chip is hidden.

[GiveMeABreak]

Good photos anyway - at least it shows the internals. IIRC, the C5s were one of the few new vehicles to get 2 'proper' fobs with the car. I had 2 of these for both my Mark I and Mark II C5s.

Back to the Wiki editing now - I'm preparing an Engine and Gearbox 'Official' oil recommendation document and guide. - It's long!

[pd2444]

This is spot on. The immobiliser chip is indeed in the blade part of the key - the electronics in the main fob are just for the remote locking.

I swapped the BSI, BSM and the engine ECU and the car came to life but with "Alarm Fault" and would not start. Swapped the chips over (a very fiddly job and the blade isn't quite in the fob right but works) and the car started first time.

Now to hopefully get it connected to Lexia and code in the radio etc. and see what is working.

[Paul-R]

Toldja!

Seriously - good work and good luck with the radio.