relay pull-type clutch

[flying clutchman]

I wonder if anyone has a definitive instruction on how to separate the engine/gearbox on these vehicles on the rare occasion that the bearing has not failed. I've managed to undo the clutch through the bellhousing on one and lever the clutch apart on another (not recommended) but recently had an older camper with a bit less room than the later models and the clutch bolts were too tight to undo with the limited room. As the vehicle was still driving it went back together unchanged. Not my favourite way to waste a day!

[RichardW]

I can see if there is anything in the service.citroen docs - what age van / engine are you talking about?

[flying clutchman]

this particular van is 2001, but the later ones are similar, but have a bigger access hole.

[miked]

It not a definitive answer, but I watched someone change the gearbox on an 807 and after not realising it was a pull type the boss wandered over and told him to remove the pin which the release arm pivots on. Seemed to separate no problem then.

[BX]

If it's the same as the Ducato it is necessary to pull out the release lever pivot pin from the bell housing. There is a special tool for this. It threads into the end of the pin. I do not know the thread size. If you look carefully you should see where a hole can be drilled in the bell housing to access the blind end of the pivot pin. A parallel punch can then be used to drive out the pin.

[flying clutchman]

Thanks for your answer BX. I guessed there was a special tool to remove the cross-shaft as actually changing the bearing can be tricky when the box is out. not sure I want to take a chance with drilling a hole in the bellhousing but a good idea if you can get it right.
Miked, the pull-type clutch you refer to is a different design entirely, the bearing is permanently fixed to the cover. The type I am describing clips together after installation

[jgra1]

I think I am at this point tonight too.. boxer 2.2 2004

the pivot shaft is blind at one end .. will look again tomorrow .. but box not coming off just yet..

[RichardW]

I couldn't find much about it in the service manual, John. It does show a tool which is basically a handle with a thread on the end, which appears to be introduced via the clutch operating hole. If you peer in, maybe you can see the pin in the release shaft and then find a bolt to fit? Unsure if it just screws in then lets you pull the pin out, or if it 'jacks' the pin out. One of the other ones just said 'activate the clutch operating lever till the bearing disengages'!!

[RichardW]

Some info here, pictures not working though.... http://www.motorhomefacts.com/forum-pri ... ult-1.html

[jgra1]

thanks both.. will.update later..j

[jgra1]

all done

yep, drill into bell housing, and if you are in the right place (you can see the place from within the starter hole) then drill through a wall within.. so nice drilling through ally.. after that, about 30 reasonable blows with a drift, the arm comes out about 15cm! mine got as far as the gearbox cable mounts, and I didn't need to do anymore.. release arm free, gearbox off..
I will throw a pic or two up tomorrow sometime..

The clutch mounting bolt heads have seen some previous abuse.. 1 is an allen, and several of the T40's are chewed.. I suppose the clutch has been changed once already, and van is on 114K.. will need to think about how to get those bolts out ..

[flying clutchman]

hammer and chisel will do that, it's a common problem with people over-tightening clutch bolts. It would have been far easier for the gearbox to have been designed with the shaft going right through to the bottom! Good idea about locating the drilling point through the starter opening.

[jgra1]

thanks for that Mr clutch man .. will take some pics later .. and get them bolts out..