Xsara Picasso ignition key stuck

[Sparte]

Hi, I have an old Picasso with a key stuck in the ignition. I've stripped it down ready to replace the barrel and wiring but I can't depress the buttons that release it as the key won't turn. Is there a way of getting it out without resorting to grinding it out? I'm surprised it seized as the pollen filter was replaced at the beginning of the year so I thought it would be safe to run the air con on full...obviously not, thanks, Mark

[GiveMeABreak]

Not quite sure what the Air con and Pollen filter has got to do with the key being stuck?
A little more detail on your model and trim level would help - but better still post or PM your VIN that will save time and I'll pull up the diagrams.

[Sparte]

Hi Marc, I ran the car with the air con on and the blower on max and looking on Google, this can cause electrical connections behind the barrel to overheat and fuse and that locks the key. It will not turn and can't be removed. Seems to be a common problem and usually a result of the pollen filter being clogged. The fix is to replace the wiring and connectors behind the barrel but to get it out, the key needs to turn to be able to depress the locking lugs and that's my problem, the key won't turn. I've come across a couple of posts on other sites where people have used a dremmel to grind down the lugs to get it out but I wondered if there was an easier way? Thanks, Mark

[GiveMeABreak]

Hi Mark, ok - an interesting one - can you please send me your VIN number via private message (click my avatar and then click send private message), so I can see the specific diagrams for your vehicle.

[Sparte]

Hi Marc, will do when I get home this evening, cheers, Mark

[GiveMeABreak]

Hi Marc, will do when I get home this evening, cheers, Mark

Not sure if you've seen this video - his key wasn't stuck, but his blower wasn't working - could of been a pre-cursor to your problem, but a very clear video on dismantling the ignition barrel and wiring nonetheless if you stick with it.

The only problem I can see is that in order to replace the wiring switch in the barrel, you need to be able to turn the key to release the pins as you've mentioned already. Not sure whether you could attack it from the back though, or whether the 2 sections are locked together - but a good video anyway, which will probably help more than a diagram will, but I'll have a look later anyway.

[RichardW]

Big hammer ought to do it....

Lots of wiggling might just get it to come back far enough to depress the pin. Otherwise you'll either have to drill out the pin (not easy as it is hard); smash the key and then drill out the lock (not that easy either) or cut and bend the steering column to get it out. I had to take the latter on a BX with a snapped key - I think I replaced the column with a 2nd one though, rather than just hammering it back down and shoving the new lock in. These days I would probably put a blob of weld on the column after cutting it out.

[GiveMeABreak]

I must admit this is the first I've heard of this problem and sounds utterly incredible

Obviously would be better to avoid having to replace the whole thing given the expense, but keep the Dremmel handy just in case!

[Sparte]

Thanks Gents, it is a design flaw...you need to be able to turn the key to remove the barrel but what if it won't turn! There is slight movement in the pins even when the key is in the wrong position so I'll probably take them down just enough to remove it with the Dremmel. There's no way in from the back. I'll probably use a dab of epoxy to hold the new one in place and if that ever needs replacing, use the dremmel again...job for the weekend, cheers, Mark

[Sparte]

Had a look at the video Mark...difference is the key turns which allows the pins to be depressed. There is a little movement in them, they probably depress half way so haven't got to remove them completely, just take them down a few mm. Good thing is that replacements are readily available on EBay and not expensive, Cheers, Mark

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, well good luck with the job - maybe worth a few pics to show others how to do it if you get the time!!

[Sparte]

Gents, Job half done. I used a small grinding wheel in a Dremmel and carefully took the stuck pins down a tiny bit at a time until the barrel was free. The metal is quite soft and the job took less than 10 mins and there's enough of the pins left to hold the barrel back in place. It then breaks down into three parts 1. the ignition barrel and key 2. a metal sleeve and 3. the plastic connector that attaches to the six wires that go to three connectors. A small screw holds it all together and as soon as it is apart, the key turns again and is easily removed. No 3 is the problem, it is plastic and has a centre that turns and it had fused solid and as it is fitted to the ignition barrel, that prevented the key from turning. Just awaiting the replacement from Ebay (readily available for between £10 and £15) to arrive and shouldn't take too long to reassemble. Moral is don't run the air con with the blower on max even if the pollen filter is clean....it can overheat and fuse the connector! Thanks for all the advice, Mark

[Hell Razor5543]

I wonder if that might be a candidate for the Xantia starter motor support relay mod (tweaked for these circumstances). Other than I have heard of it, I do not know what is involved (except it takes a heavy load away from the ignition barrel and handles it through a relay).

[xantia_v6]

This problem could certainly be prevented by adding a relay to take the high current away from the ignition switch contacts, allowing the A/C to be used as freely as desired.

The modification would be similar to the MK1 Xantia ignition switch relay modification (but perhaps on a different set of ignition switch contacts). http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... 19&t=24786

This is different to the Xantia starter relay modification that is generally only required on V6s, and due to inadequate wiring (and a marginal design of starter solenoid), not due to high current.

[Hell Razor5543]

I knew that it would be different, but (as this thread would suggest) if it were a regular occurrence something similar to the starter motor relay mod could be a useful thing to do.