Clio 1.2 16v 2002 PH2 issue D4F engine

[Billathome65]

OK guys here's the issue.

Electrical fault light comes on when driving I turn off then on still there and engine starts to hunt and idle erratically and can and does stall but will start again no problem but idles like poo until the electrical light goes of then it runs fine.

I have run a code reader and got a code for the crankshaft sensor ( As id removed the old one and put another on that was faulty ) Cleared that code.

I have also had a P0200 code at one point suggesting an issue with an injector or injectors? however after removing that code it has not returned.

The live data shows an OL Fault when the light is on and the Short term fuel trim readings die completely but returns when the red light goes off? However the long term continues to register?

Along with this at the start the short term fuel trim would jump around quite erratically from + to - with the LTFT sitting at around 10.9 as the light is coming on more frequent I have noticed these readings going to + or - 20's and 30's?????

I have replaced the coil pack
Replaced the Spark plugs
Put loads of Redex through the carburetor and sprayed loads of carb cleaner through ( Mechanic has ruled out carb as the issue )
Replaced the Map sensor
The top of the carbon canister had detached itself?? however that has been repaired ( Could still be a part of the issue? )
The car was in the garage to diagnose the issue and the mechanic stated they got a code for the air intake heat sensor which was subsequently replaced.
It's had the air filter replaced along with an oil / filter change and the break fluid topped up
I have removed all the fuse and relays under the bonnet and cleaned them up and have also checked the loom and its plugs visually and by poking and moving the wiring to try to replicate the electrical light and hunting to no avail.

The car revs up without issue with the light on but does tend to chuck out black water from the exhaust when over reved hard?

When driving and the red light comes on the car still accelerates with no issue and I have had no codes to show misfire so I'm at a loss of where to go now.

I have no water or oil contamination so feel the head gasket is OK? and as it accelerates without issue at hard throttle I feel ive eliminated a throttle / sensor issue as well as my thoughts of sticking valve????

I have been forced to take the car off the road in order to spend time on it IE am going to run a compression test ( What should the Dry and Wet readings be around?? )

As I am not a mechanic and only have basic tools I can only go so far into the engine so if it seems the issue is deeper I will either scrap or sell the car on to someone who can explore more.

But any and all tips and advice on how best to proceed and to look at is advantageous By the way this may sound sad but I have no idea how to use a multi meter to check wiring

Cheers Bill

[imperial21]

Hi
The wiring to the ecu needs to be checked well, any signs of chafted wires just after the plug will need further investigation, has the security box been removed from the ecu plug ? its the left hand side plug i am talking about, its also worth disconnecting both the plugs and checking the ecu pins are clean and are without corrison.
To do the compression check you will need a small adaptor for the plugs thread, its not the most common, i expect to see about 175 PSI on each cylinder.
Without seeing the car its hard to say about the problem but i would like very carefully at the engine looms, i have replaced a few ! now a days i tend to remove the whole manifold and swap for another complete one as they are cheap andthat includes most common faulty parts.
Code readers can only read well if the engine loom is in good condition !