Correct Oil for 2.0dci (M9R) must meet RN0720 standard?

[Axa]

Is it correct that engine oil for my 2008 2.0dci needs to meet the Renault norm RN0720?

When doing a search on here http://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/ i get 2 different alternatives

2006-2008 - http://applications.castrol.com/oilsele ... aa93099737

2008-2014 - http://applications.castrol.com/oilsele ... 65d8b2f288

And since our car is a 2008 i get confused. It seems like one of the years should be either 2007 or 2009.

Do anyone know why there is 2 different alternatives. AFAK our car god an M9R-761. Is there any other version of M9R newer cars then 2008?

I want to make sure i do what can be done to avoid any DPF and EGR problems so any helpfull advice is greatly appreciated!

[Goc3k]

Don't know anything about renault oil standards but having wasted eons of my life pouring over oil specifications working on old rotary engines I can at least shed the following light:

The 5w-30 you listed meets / exceeds ACEA C4 and is listed as British Standard Renault RN 0720. ACEA C4 is a top spec bells and whistles certification for vehicles with ultra modern exhaust treatment systems (I.e, DPF's and TWC's). A quick google search reveals the Renault specification builds upon this further, and would appear to me the one you need.

The 0W-30 meets / exceeds ACEA C2 and is listed as Renault RN0700/RN0710. ACEA C2, Which while also graded as a "low SAPS oil" suitable for use with DPFS etc etc, has a higher content and meets different standards.

The institute standard individual oils meet can be easily found via google, each will relate to various characteristics / properties. ACEA C grading as a very broad rule of thumb indicates the levels of sulphur / phosphorus (Low SAPS is the consumer coined term) present in the oil, while also meeting many of the older standards.

It is debatable that lower SAPS castrol edge will break down the additive package present faster than a conventional synthetic oil when used in conjunction with lower sulphur fuels (as we have in the UK), and will result in a shorter oil change interval, or a different oil specification - since the RN xxx standards are from British Renault I would assume this has already been considered.

To summarise, my money is on you needing the 5w-30 C4. If you're still worried you would probably need to ring Renault UK / France

*Edit - Just noticed you're in Norway. oops, revise my phone recommendations

[Axa]

Thanx for sharing your knowledge.
I've just ordered oil that meets both the ACEA C4 and Renaults RN0720 standards.
I went with the budget brand Bölk from mister-auto.com
I intend to do oil changes well before half of the 30.000km recommended by Renault. 10.000-15.000km depending on how many long trips we do. But at least once in a year.

Now I'm waiting for the closest Renault garage to get back to me about what ATM oil I need to do a partial (~2.7liter) change in the Aisin gearbox as milage is close to 200.000km on "sealed for life oil" [FEARFUL FACE]

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[Goc3k]

Sounds good!

More frequent oil changes is certainly wise, 30,000km's is too long. i'd say changing every 15,000 / 16,000 would be fine as long as you don't drive hard too often.

Getting oil for your auto box should be much easier, as there is very little difference between ATF fluids compared to the amount of different engine oils there are.

Don't be too concerned about doing a part change of your auto box fluid (which is just changing what is in the sump, as opposed to flushing all the old oil out that is retained in the torque converter and throughout the box itself). I find the biggest problem at that mileage is that a lot of the gearbox oil has usually leaked out (nothing is ever truly 100% sealed after all). Certainly worth doing for peace of mind.

[Axa]

Main reason to change at 10,000 is due to cold starts in the winter. But if we do allot of holiday driving during the summer I tend to extend the interval a bit.

I wonder if anyone have done a modification by adding a oil plug in the bottom of the converter?
I have not had a look yet, but I imagine it must be possible to finda suitable spot around the bottom to drill a small hole and tap it to M6 or M8 to drain the whole box without the need for expensive flushing equipment..

What do you think about that?

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[Goc3k]

You can't drill and tap things into the torque converter, there is no access without removing the gearbox anyway - Generally the gearbox filler plug will be at the top of the system and the drain plug at the bottom, and by pumping fresh fluid into the filler plug with a simple hand operated pump (I use the ones off of 5l dish soap bottles usually), the system will be purged of old oil while fresh oil takes its place. You simply keep pumping it in untill the fluid starts to run clear, then refill as per the service manual. This is usually the case in the 15+ year old auto boxes i've worked on, don't know much / anything about the modern boxes though.

On rare occasions TC's do actually have drain plugs or a drain valve fitted from the factory. Never actually seen one but have heard of them - really if someone who actually knows the gearbox could chime in that would be ideal.

Also good to check if there is any water in the oil while you're changing it, as this can point to a leaky transmission cooler, and a broken trans cooler seems to be the #1 or 2 culprit for broken auto boxes.

[ferkemall]

RE converter drainplug
They dont do them on demestic cars these days they used to use them in the 50s /60s /70s , torque converters have to be ballanced if you drill a hole in one you will ve metalic particals in there ,even if you drill and put an insert in for a plug you will have to have it ballanced ,converters are truly a sealed for life part,

For my sins i drive a modus automatic i can only speak for my self but i downloaded 3 different manuals for the AL4/DPO renault say do not change the fluid just top it up when needed which of course leads to debris from the clutches and steel spacers blocking up the valve body and valves and eventual problems
i do not use the Renault recomended fluid as i found it can cause overheating one look in the hand and it says limp mode can be caused by to long on the motorway /to long in traffic /and carrying .pulling to much weight all are signes of overheating , i flushed my unit out and bought 5ltrs of carplan ATF-U that was 2 years ago cost then £19 car runs like new and has appx 56000 on the clock .

As for your particular unit just go onto youtube and put the model number in there and record any vids relivant to your vehicle ,i use a tablet with screen cord and have appx 30 vids on renault ,and store them on a pendrive they come in handy when you for some procedure !