Random Xantia Questions

[spider]

This is just to help me fill gaps and correct anything really. Please consider it "questions from the curious" and my knowledge of this model is very very sparse indeed.

What I um "think I know"... Likely wrong.

Early models did not have the 'valve' to prevent sinking so they would slowly drop when turned off. I think this came in about 1995 ?

Usual range of engines mirroring the 405/406. Later 1.8 were 16V to 'match' the 406. 2.0 in 16v form and in 8v turbo form (matching the 406SRI)

Derv units being the usual 1.9XUD / 1.9XUDT / 2.1XUDT11 then later the HDi in both 90 and 110 forms.

Early 'mechanical' HP box replaced with 'electronic' AL4 around 1998/1999 (this matches the 'change over' time for the 306 actually)

Early diesel auto's were with the N/A unit only (no turbo) but it was possible to get a later (98? possibly only with the AL4?) XUDT auto.

'Activa' only available over here with the 2.0 turbo 8v unit. Elsewhere the V6 was possible.


My Questions:

1. Was there such a thing as an HDi auto or was the "two pedal" option offered only with petrol engines and the XUD/XUDT units ?

2. Were V6's offered with a manual transmission ? Not that I'd want a 'five on the floor' stick with the big V6 though. The only reason for asking this is the 406 was freely available in saloon / estate / coupe form with either transmission. Auto was more popular however.

3. Were the V6's the later 'more poke' units ? I do not have specifics on this, suspect variable intake as everyone else does it. My V6 knowledge is very limited.

4. The nasty earlier tensioner on the V6 can be changed for the sensible spring loaded one I read if you are willing to replace the water pump for the later type ? This is true or you need to knock a 'chunk' off the later pump as well ? , This reminds me of the later TU petrols where you can force fit the 'auto' tensioner if you want.

5. Do they have to have the 'green' LHM or can they take the later (orange?) fluid as per the newer models ? There is no reason for asking this other than curiosity.

6. I'm assuming given its the 90 and 110 earlier HDi units (the good ones) there's no DPF either to be concerned about.

7. 'Activa' models, forgetting just 'our' market here, was there an auto offered ? I'm only asking this as I think the 2.0 turbo would be manual only to 'mirror' the 406 as the auto was 16v only. There was a changeover with these and later ones did not have the turbo unit at all but that's off topic here.

8. Haynes suggests that to remove the head from the XUD11 (2.1TD) you have to drop the whole lot out ( ! ) that can't be right surely ? , I would of thought with some swearing and removal of mountings etc it would be possible in situ. Just curious.

I did flick though the BOL (a later one) to get a bit of information but it sort of muddles things.

[RichardW]

1 I don't think there was a RHD HDi auto - dunno about LHD
2 Not in RHD, but yes in LHD
3 Not sure? 200 PS I think (194 bhp)
4 I think so, V6 experts will confirm
5 Green LHM - you can probably use the later LHS - some parts are crossed over (eg strut returns on the C5)
6 Correct
7 Don't know - Manual only in RHD
8 Believe this is correct - it's a big head so access to the turbo would be difficult. There are not many 2.1TDs anyway - more likely to get an HDi 110

[CitroJim]

Hi Andy,

3. No, all V6 Xantias had the ES9J4 194 engine although subjectively to me, and I've run both extensively, the S1 variety always felt livelier and more 'urgent'

4. Yes, the old dynamic tensioner can be replaced by the later ES9J4S-style eccentric tensioner. In fact done one this week. All that's needed is to take out the water pump and hacksaw off a lug that's no longer needed and fouls the new tensioner mount.

The Old Dynamic Tensioner is a lovely piece of engineering and I've kept it as a worthy artefact for the CitroJim Museum of curiosities...

7. I don't believe there was any Auto Activas as the placement of the Activa Accumulator sphere would foul the 4HP20 and in any case the AL4, even if it fitted, would not have been up to the job...

I did once think that a V6 Auto Activa would be a nice thing to have...

8. I too believe this to be true.. It may be possible but it's likely one of those cases that it would be far easier to remove the whole lot rather than faff around trying no to. I'm almost 100% convinced the best way to do an Activa/2.1TD/110HDi clutch is to whip out engine and 'box compete rather than buggering about trying to do the job in-situ...

[spider]

Thanks Richard and Jim.

Most helpful. As I say I'm just trying to plug some knowledge gaps.

[daviemck2006]

I'm almost 100% convinced the best way to do an Activa/2.1TD/110HDi clutch is to whip out engine and 'box compete rather than buggering about trying to do the job in-situ...

Would this be as a result of the buggering about you had trying to get the gearbox back in a few weeks ago? [emoji13]

[CitroJim]

I'm almost 100% convinced the best way to do an Activa/2.1TD/110HDi clutch is to whip out engine and 'box compete rather than buggering about trying to do the job in-situ...

Would this be as a result of the buggering about you had trying to get the gearbox back in a few weeks ago? [emoji13]

Yes

And past experiences too Davie

[superloopy]

Any info on 'whipping out' an Activa engine could come in useful to me [emoji6]

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[NewcastleFalcon]

Any info on 'whipping out' an Activa engine could come in useful to me [emoji6]

I wonder what the timescale is for removing an engine justifying the description of "whipping out!"

Got to be no more than a morning at the most My own timescales for whipping my 2.0hdi engine out on the Picasso to check what damage has been done to it by the glow plug tip, are already onto their second month! Then again I'm only doing small bits when I feel like it and its sunny

Regards Neil

[spider]

Timescale : Depends if its going back I guess. They come out with alarming ease with a gas axe

Not that I would do that though obviously...

[superloopy]

Up here Neil, sunny? No wonder it's taking so long [emoji51]

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[NewcastleFalcon]

Yes I have given up Working in a muddy puddle and in general now tend to get stuff done, rather than do-it myself, but the Picasso resurrection hopefully I can take my time over, because getting the necessary done at a garage would just be way in excess of what the car is worth.

Regards Neil

[CitroJim]

Time-scale for popping the engine out is not much more than it takes to strip away ll that's needed to remove just the gearbox. The only additional tasks is to disconnect the exhaust, drain the coolant, disconnect the rad and disconnect the engine electrical loom so just over a morning I'd say...

[Zelandeth]

Hearing tales of woe of engine removal always makes me appreciate the Skoda Estelle.

I've had engines out of three of them now to change clutch release bearings (they are made of cheese). Here's the procedure.

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Open engine cover.
3. Remove air cleaner for better access.
4. Disconnect and label the cables to the carb.
5. Drain cooling system and disconnect radiator/heater hoses.
5. Disconnect fuel feed line (there is no return).
6. Remove four bolts holding the bumper on and remove it.
7. Undo 6 (or 8, can't remember) 10mm bolts holding the rear body panel in and swing it out the way. The rear light wiring harness is long enough, only connector that has to be pulled is to the fog lights. If you want to completely remove it, leave the loom alone and just remove the bulb holders from the lights.
8. Stick a trolley jack under the engine - the sump is alloy and finned so protect it with a wooden block.
9. Remember at this point to disconnect the HT leads and alternator - again label everything.
10. Remove splash guards - this is easier with the car raised a couple of inches - hence waiting till you have the jack handy.
11. Put jack or axle stand under the gearbox.
12. Remove bell housing bolts. Don't forget the awkward one hiding behind the starter motor.
13. Unbolt the four bolts holding the rear crossmember to the body.
14. Roll the engine on the jack out the back of the car - beware it's canted over at 45 degrees and is an alloy block with cast iron head (yes really) so the first thing it will try to do is flip itself upside-down.

You can do it in a couple of hours if you know what you're doing and have the right tools. We managed a clutch change in a day last time and we work about as fast as James May!

Reassembly is the reverse of removal as they say.

[Hell Razor5543]

While James May is known as Captain Slow, part of that is because of his (possibly obsessive) attention to detail.

[CitroJim]

Zel, that procedure is less complex than virtually any job on a Xantia

While James May is known as Captain Slow, part of that is because of his (possibly obsessive) attention to detail.

Perhaps that's why I'm 'Captain Slow' in Team WFA

James May and I do have quite a lot in common... My hair is shorter though...