1.6 Hdi Crank Magnetic Rotor Test

[onthecut]

Working on a newly acquired 206SW 1.6Hdi and decided to change the cam belt as a precaution. On reassembly I have now lost the crank sensor signal, or it's defective. I have a horrible feeling I may have touched or knocked the magnetic bit of the sprocket with a spanner and wonder if this is the issue.

Anyone know of any means to test it (Obviously, I'm hoping to avoid having to do most of the belt job again !)? Equally, is there any test for the pick up itself and so I can test the cable, does anyone have the pin numbers at the ECU (Bosch) that the crank sensor feeds into.

On a slightly different topic, I was a little confused doing the belt, as every reference I saw referred to pinning the fuel pump sprocket and the crank sprocket. I don't see the relevance of pinning the fuel pump sprocket as it's not involved in the timing and in any case I couldn't find any hole that was in the right place. Equally, why pin the crank sprocket when you have the much bigger pin in the flywheel ? I can see the logic if it has a 'floaty' sprocket, but on this one it's solidly located by the Woodroffe key.

Mike.

[RichardW]

The timing position is not the same as the crank locking position...which is presumably why you couldn't pin the fuel pump. Not sure how you managed to pin the cam! Anyway, I would take the covers off again and check the timing against the correct timing positions. This may resolve the crank sensor issue.

[wheeler]

The pin in the flywheel is not a timing hole, its purely for locking the crankshaft to undo the pulley bolt, hope you haven't used this to set the timing up If so you need to go back & re set the timing properly, keep your fingers crossed & hope theres no damage.
Locking the fuel pump is not really necessary on HDi's, I seem to remember reading somewhere that it is recommended for balance reasons ?
How do you know you have lost the crank signal ? just touching the magnetic track with metal shouldn't really affect it unless you have physically damaged or bent it. The crank sensor is hall effect on this engine so it needs a power supply & earth, the 3rd pin generates a square wave pulse signal when the magnets go past it, the best way to check this is with a scope.

[spider]

The guides generally say for this unit (and the 1.4) to avoid touching the sensor / pickup and to make sure there are no metallic particles on it.

There is (as already mentioned) the 'lock" purely for the purpose of crank pulley removal and a different position to actually time it. I cannot remember off the top of my head but I *think* there's the hole in the front of the block for this unit. Others have already posted more useful info anyway.

[onthecut]

Many thanks for the information. Spot on ---- I had used the flywheel pin as the timing reference rather than the location on the belt sprocket. It had fitted for the simple reason I cut the old belt to remove it and naturally assumed it was the big pin for the flywheel that was the one to go for and set the sprockets accordingly when I came to refit.

Now reassembled using the correct alignment and as far as I can tell, no harm done. If nothing else, I now have a nice new magnetic rotor and pick up in place, as I had assumed one or the other was the issue and replaced both. For reference, got the pick up from GSF at about £22; a worthwhile saving on the £30 Citroen want, plus I think the GSF is genuine anyway (Bougicord with what looks like a PSA part number on the back).

Have to say, the auxiliary belt tensionng on this engine is a delight, particularly compared to the old 306 XUD version.

Mike.