206 clutch

[jgra1]

hi all ..
it was always on the cards, now the SWMBO's 206 cc 2.0 petrol 2001 clutch has gone west.. it took the crank sensor too, just to be nice

LUK ordered, oil and seals and bushes to order, plus the sensor..

this job has the look of hideous somehow.. but maybe its not that bad..
Has anyone done one for this engine? not sure if its same as 2.0 Xant 16v?
The clutch is a hydro.. the first and last time I saw one of those was probably on a Triumph Herald when I was changing a Borg Beck at 13!
Saw a resurrected post about (the) bleeding things, will try to re read that..

there is still pedal..
Can I get away with offside Driveshaft staying in? I know Malcolm said he has had luck with that.. is it an engine out job even?!

any thoughts appreciated..

John

[CitroJim]

John,

What 'box is fitted to the 206? If the hydraulic clutch is anything like the ML5 used on the big-engine Xantias then it'll not be too bad at all.. The only difference is that the new release bearing has to be pulled into engagement with the diaphragm spring after refitting but before refitting the salve cylinder...

[jgra1]

Thanks Jim.. no idea on the box type.. yet... didn't want to take slave out badly or anything. Will continue removal this evening and see how it goes.. really hoping long driveshaft can stay in place although I have never tried that method before..

[RichardW]

I wouldn't try that John, chances are you will bend it on removal, and it will just get in the way. For the extra 1/2 hour it will take to remove it (got to be easier than an X7!) it will make life easier.

I imagine this will be a BE4R box - which is a development of the BE3. Probably a std push clutch, slave should just unbolt and lift away from the box.

[CitroJim]

I wouldn't try that John, chances are you will bend it on removal, and it will just get in the way. For the extra 1/2 hour it will take to remove it (got to be easier than an X7!) it will make life easier.

Fully agree!

[RichardW]

Take it back, looks like a pull clutch the same as the Xantia HDi 110 with the clipped in bearing.... wonder if the subframe might need to come out???

[jgra1]

thanks both, don't know why I thought of leaving the long shaft in place! just read something on here about someone doing it.. makes no sense to me either
did a bit more tonight, slave out of way.. starter moved etc blah blah..
what I noticed was the (some call it spoon) or the outer end of the release arm lever is very sloppy.. in a -bottom bush mashed or shaft in two pieces kind of way.. will have to see if I can find a whole arm somewhere for the weekend..
I think the box will come down ok.. from what I can see so far.. if I had more time I would pull the whole unit out and do a cambelt etc but I am under pressure a bit..

J

[CitroJim]

John, that spoon bit is often found very loose...

Basically, you'll be doing an ML5 then... You need to make yourself a hooked tool to pull the new release bearing into engagement...

[jgra1]

thanks Jim.. funny I just asked google what oil for this box and it directed me to you, in 2007, asking the same thing for an activa
Handyman said EP80..
I assume 75/80 is the usual PSA requirement?
I bought a new spoon in case it's broken..
will make more sense about the release bearing when I pull it apart..

re driveshafts, I have remember doing Xantia boxes in the distant past.. I think back then I moved the long shaft away from the box as against took it off the car..think that's where my confusion came from..

[CitroJim]

Yes, 75W/80 John...

[Hell Razor5543]

You can get Total BV75/80 at a better price from GSF than from Citroen/Peugeot dealerships.

[jgra1]

7£ a litre from the local factors.. dealers were about 10
This isn't total but comma.. mineral suitable for psa applications.
Should be ok ?

[RichardW]

The clutch is similar in operation to the Turbo D pull clutch, whereby the release bearing is fixed to the pressure plate and the release arm works to pull the release bearing away from the flywheel. However, the installation differs in that the bearing is not supplied fixed to the pressure plate, but has a spring clip which attaches it to the plate. So when installing you engage the bearing with the release fork in the bell housing and then offer up the box and bolt it into place. Once this is done you pull on the release fork to engage the bearing in the clutch plate (Paul does this in fact by pushing on the fork through the starter hole). I suspect that on yours the bearing has pulled out of the plate and hence the fork is floating about, giving the feeling of being loose / broken (and no clutch action!).

You probably could get away with just pulling the shaft out and setting it out of the way, but you are only undoing the hub away from removing it anyway, so you might as well. Once the shaft it out, you can remove the output housing from the box on the OS (just 3 10mm bolts) and this makes it easier to get the box out past the back of the engine. As the release bearing has let go, you will probably need to renew the input guide tube / seal.

[jgra1]

Thanks rich .. forgot the guide tube ..

You mention box past back of engine..this sounds worrying.. I was assuming it would just lower onto the floor and pull out from under car like a xantia etc ?.

[RichardW]

Still comes out the bottom, but if you remove that bit it's one less thing to hang up and it takes all of about 30 seconds. A tip from Jon Wood IIRC!!