Xantia V6 issues
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Xantia V6 issues
Went out to impart a bit of TLC to the V6 which has been standing over winter and is getting decidedly 'mossy' around the window rubbers due to the deluges up here only to find an oily looking leak on the ground in the vicinity of NSF and also to find my interior drivers mirror has dropped orfff!!
Couple of thoughts spring to mind (i had to return indoors cos it was hailstoning buckets) .... leak on nsf, gearbox banjo or not? Is it on the right side of the car?
And, what's the best 'stuff' to sticky my mirror back on with??
Other than those she started first time (relay modded!) and seemed to be in good spirits even though the pads semm to be welded to the disks now. Desperately needs a run but without MOT .....
Couple of thoughts spring to mind (i had to return indoors cos it was hailstoning buckets) .... leak on nsf, gearbox banjo or not? Is it on the right side of the car?
And, what's the best 'stuff' to sticky my mirror back on with??
Other than those she started first time (relay modded!) and seemed to be in good spirits even though the pads semm to be welded to the disks now. Desperately needs a run but without MOT .....
Mike
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
Best thing for the mirror are Fords sticky pads - they DO stick where others fail.
Oil leak - not a clue, sorry.
Oil leak - not a clue, sorry.
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
If you turn the steering to left lock and look behind the wheel, you can see the banjo on the end of the transmission. Also take a look at the strut return hose, they are mostly perishing by now.
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
Thanks but should have said its not the whole mirror assembly that's come down. Just the inside gubbins (looks like a two piece affair, the main body minus the mirror itself is still stuck firmly)myglaren wrote:Best thing for the mirror are Fords sticky pads - they DO stick where others fail.
Oil leak - not a clue, sorry.
And me neither ... wouldn't know where to look for the banjo union just wondering if its somewhere in the vicinity of nsf? I'm assuming its a gearbox related thingy cos i've read about it i think
Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
That'll mean 'dewelding' the pads from the disks thenxantia_v6 wrote:If you turn the steering to left lock and look behind the wheel, you can see the banjo on the end of the transmission. Also take a look at the strut return hose, they are mostly perishing by now.
Is the banjo pipe accessible without removing front wheel?
Good thinking about the strut return hose although this looks decidely 'oily' and not green blooded.
Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
That depends on the difficulty of removing the wheel...Northerner wrote: Is the banjo pipe accessible without removing front wheel?
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
So ... it's not do-able with the wheel in situ and on full lefthand lock? Is it accessible from the engine bay?
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Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
Nope, definitely a wheel off job Mike and then access is excellent...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
Does the arch liner need to come off?
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Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
IIRC it doesn't need to come off, use copper washers as the aluminium ones dissolve.
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
I remember when Mandrake (Simon) was stranded because a banjo bolt washer had failed. I know that CitroJim offered advise on where to get replacements. This was on his previous V6 (aka Problem Child).
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
If you use copper washers, make sure you anneal them well as generally straight out of the pack they're as hard as iron...
Mike, alternatively, if you are in no rush I have a few genuine ally ones here... PM me your address and I could pop a couple in the post... I'm not going to need them again...
Mike, alternatively, if you are in no rush I have a few genuine ally ones here... PM me your address and I could pop a couple in the post... I'm not going to need them again...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
Will do Jim ... thanks!!
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Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
Re: Xantia V6 issues
I used copper washers as an emergency repair for the old V6 as mentioned above - they lasted for a year until the car was sold. They came in one of the copper washer multi-packs from Halfords and I did flame anneal them as Jim recommended.
I would not recommend copper long term though due to the risk of electrolytic corrosion between the aluminium alloy and the copper! There was a little bit of corrosion starting to show around the copper before the car was sold but nothing major.
On my second V6 when the Banjor started leaking I fitted the OEM aluminium alloy washers - still available from Citroen. Here's some pictures for you:
New and old washers:
After fitting:
If I had to give any advice it would be to be very careful not to get any dirt or muck inside the pipe work or housing when removing it - clean thoroughly around the area first as any dirt getting into the oil in the gearbox can cause major problems. Also when refitting the bolt don't be tempted to over-tighten - it doesn't need to be super tight and as the banjo bolt is mostly hollow it looks like it would be fairly easy to twist and snap it! I would just nip it up with a ratchet and no more. If the faces where the washers go are clean its not going to leak again in the remaining life time of the car.
A pretty easy job really and plenty of access with the wheel off.
If the leak has been there for many miles then the gearbox oil level may be low - so ideally you should check the oil level, but the method of doing that is a whole other story.
I would not recommend copper long term though due to the risk of electrolytic corrosion between the aluminium alloy and the copper! There was a little bit of corrosion starting to show around the copper before the car was sold but nothing major.
On my second V6 when the Banjor started leaking I fitted the OEM aluminium alloy washers - still available from Citroen. Here's some pictures for you:
New and old washers:
After fitting:
If I had to give any advice it would be to be very careful not to get any dirt or muck inside the pipe work or housing when removing it - clean thoroughly around the area first as any dirt getting into the oil in the gearbox can cause major problems. Also when refitting the bolt don't be tempted to over-tighten - it doesn't need to be super tight and as the banjo bolt is mostly hollow it looks like it would be fairly easy to twist and snap it! I would just nip it up with a ratchet and no more. If the faces where the washers go are clean its not going to leak again in the remaining life time of the car.
A pretty easy job really and plenty of access with the wheel off.
If the leak has been there for many miles then the gearbox oil level may be low - so ideally you should check the oil level, but the method of doing that is a whole other story.
Simon
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1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
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1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
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1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
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Re: Xantia V6 issues
Howdy Simon ... been a while since you've partook! Thanks for the info ... I had read your earlier thread so it's just a case of getting it done. Jim has kindly donated a couple of oem washers so once arrived i'll crack on. Can i ask is the pipe 'obvious' once the wheel's off. And it's NSF, yes? Any idea on spanner size needed for banjo bolt so's i can prepare? Car's not moved in a while so hoping it hasn't lost that much otherwise as you say that's a whole new ballgame!
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Mike
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner