sump sealing

[jgra1]

chaps, as part of my recent engine change I had to reseal the sump on the 2.0 163 C5 .. it leaks slightly, but is annoying and I need to sort it tomorrow..

The sump sealant came from GSF but I haven't got the part number etc to hand..
Last time, I put two beads on the sump, an inner and outer.. both about the same diameter - around 5mm or so.. I then bolted the sump back on, tight, and left it alone for an hour or two..then added oil.. I cant remember how long after that before I started the car.. may not have been that day..
the sump I used wasn't perfectly flat as when it was removed the flange was distorted in places, slighty.. I have the spare sump which may be better but they are only thin metal and I was hoping things would all go back together ok..
the leak is a drip from the rear corner..

what can I do differently? I did read somewhere of bolting the pan back up hand tight, then leaving for a few hours and tightening again..
do I use more or less sealant than last time?
any thoughts welcome
John

[lexi]

I did read somewhere of bolting the pan back up hand tight, then leaving for a few hours and tightening

That may have been a post of mine as I use that method. It served me on many wonky Land Rover sumps with the pathetic cork gaskets.
I would clean it all again. Put a decent normal bead all round and then hand tighten. Go around and make sure no gaps. If there is, squeeze sealant on joint gap and go all around it. Leave like that till next day (cured). Now torque it up. You have formed a rubber gasket, that you are now tightening up on to.
If you tighten it when sealant is runny and thin, your gasket will have no thickness. It cannot make up for the surface deficit caused by out of true.
Another problem arises when putting an excess of RTV on and then tightening up instantly. The material is squeezed out and can fall into sump. I have had cars where a PO has done that.
If it is a steel sump, the rolled edge can be straightened slightly by dressing on a stiff batten. Bit of 8x2 timber clamped in vice Either upside down or the way it sits under the engine. Depends which way the flange is distorted. True it with straight edge.

[jgra1]

thanks Lexi

will post back in less then 24 hours with a dry sump

[RichardW]

I know Peter N advocates putting the sealant on and letting it go off, then bolting it up so the seal acts like a rubber gasket. I just sealed and bolted the sump back on the C4 when I had it off (3 times so far....!) and no leaks, but then it wasn't out of shape!

[lexi]

You can do that as well Richard. On other types of work, you put bead of sealant on the job. Then apply a flat board that has been covered in fairy liquid.
Remove next day and you have flat gasket on the job. I draught proofed thousands of Crittal windows like this. Gun a bead of silicone onto inside of window sash. Apply the soap to the opener's mating surface. Pull the window closed. Next day, open window and trim the excess where curled by the pressure. You have a gasket around a twisted metal window that is draught proof.

[myglaren]

I draught proofed thousands of Crittal windows like this. Gun a bead of silicone onto inside of window sash. Apply the soap to the opener's mating surface. Pull the window closed. Next day, open window and trim the excess where curled by the pressure. You have a gasket around a twisted metal window that is draught proof.

That is a useful bit of information.
My daughter has some slightly warped metal windows that are a problem to seal and that sounds like the answer to the problem.

Which sealant is most suitable though?

[lexi]

Any building type Silicone will do. I used the clear or translucent type. Clean the male and female surfaces. Don't get silicone into any moving mechanisms. Gun the silicone onto the static window part.Put the fairy liquid in a dish. Add 20 percent water. Mix and apply to opener contact surfaces with a brush. Close window and operated the handle tight. Trim with Stanley any excess beyond your witness mark, once it is cured and you are opening and closing window normally. Window will have suction in morning, but will open with even pressure. Don't force at corners or you may twist and break glass.
This only applies to Crittal, that have no gasket. Don't try this with a gasket window, as you may not get it open

[myglaren]

Thanks Kenny.
There is a gasket but it is useless and will be removed.
I did get some repair gasket from work ( I work for WB Group (The Window Bureau) but our products are incompatible with her windows.

[Kennyd90]

Glad the C5 is up and running on its new engine, it'd be great if you could please put a photo of the oil pick up strainer on the bottom of the oil pump, as I have bits of broken plastic dip stick in the sump of mine. Cheers for this.

[jgra1]

Can anyone see this image?

[jgra1]

anyway.. if you can see the pic, then Kenny that's your metal gauze.. no dipstick pieces should get through there..

I think I can say the sump is now sealed.. as of Saturday.. the overnight then tighten trick has made the difference.. the other sump I had was worse than mine.. the garage must have just shoved something in once, but it caused some damage to the pan..

J

[civvie]

Makes you wonder what they used at the factory when they assembled the engine, can't see PSA leaving the sump untightened until the seal had cured.

[xantia_v6]

Makes you wonder what they used at the factory when they assembled the engine, can't see PSA leaving the sump untightened until the seal had cured.

If you buy a new sump, it has the bead of sealant already moulded onto it.

[lexi]

Makes you wonder what they used at the factory when they assembled the engine, can't see PSA leaving the sump untightened until the seal had cured.

Yes but we are dealing with used parts that have wear and possible distortions through vibration and heat etc.
They are working with pristine new and ideal assembly and alignment. Rocker covers are similar, the factory seal is good. After that, the distortion means it never seals as well using that same method.

[lexi]

If you buy a new sump, it has the bead of sealant already moulded onto it.

Some probably do. The new sump I got for Vel Satis last year didn't though.
Genuine Parts as well.