Snapped crank!

[stevec5]

The crank has snapped on my c5 x7 2010 (2.0 litre 165bhp) i've stripped it down and the engine block is worn were the thrust washers contact - i've checked with engine engineering companies; they say they can't repair and a replacement block is needed. Does anybody know whether this block is used on several models? My engine code is DW10CTED4 Type RHH, is this block common to many engines and years or will it have specific castings and drillings on the outside.

[CitroJim]

A snapped crank is very unusual these days Steve... Any thoughts on how it happened?

I'd have thought, on past experience of earlier engines, any vehicle from the PSA stable using the same engine will share the same block so basically any 16v 2.0 HDi such as say, in the Pug 407..

be aware that many bolt-on ancillaries and their casting might be different but they generally are bolted on and can be easily swapped over...

[evilally]

That's bad new If you happen to be scrapping the engine, I'd be interested in buying the con rods?

[dnsey]

I'm surprised that the block can't be machined to take oversize (thicker) thrust washers.

[stevec5]

I rang 6 companies advertising engine machining and all said block was knackered - I don't think oversized thrust washers are available for this car, I haven't been able to find any, The car has done 100k miles (not alot for a diesel) it started with a bit of a growl - didn't think much of it, a few days later my missus was driving, she said it got a bit noisier then cut out on her. The AA dragged it home, I started the engine the next morning and it sounded fine on tickover but it was a bit knocky on higher revs, nothing to frightening. I took it for a run didn't seem to bad and then got really noisy and a judder on the clutch pedal. When I pressed the clutch pedal It seemed to wind down with a squeal. After reading a few posts i decided it may be the DMF - so I fitted a new flywheel and clutch. The old one was shot. Finished the job and started the car - there was still a bit of a rumble, foolishly I took the car for a spin; a few minutes later almighty clatter and car cut out. Towed home and stripped down to find crank snapped. Curiously timing is still ok. and belt intact. I can only assume the crank was on the way out all along. This car had a recall for a new oil pump, i had this done at 70k when I bought the car, maybe the damage was already done - perhaps centre bearings were starved of oil or oilways blocked?

[CitroJim]

That, Steve, is absolutely amazing! Any chance the old DMF may have contributed to the crank failure do you think?

[Stickyfinger]

Why is there always a "missus" in the equation

Sounds like an oil way blockage to me, that's tough luck mate.

[Gibbo2286]

Where was the break through a bearing or the web? I've not seen a broken crankshaft for years, very rare nowadays.

[Stickyfinger]

When my Healey one broke on the M25 @ 1.am I was not a happy bunny ....block bu55ered as well as it whipped about a bit (oops).
Don't ask about the cost because it was the perfect excuse for me to go all mental with a new build uprated block, head, cams etc etc

I would of thought with all the work and the cost of dealer parts, a simple swap out with one from a crashed one would be a better bet $$$ wise.

[addo]

Did you get one of the alloy motors built up?

[Stickyfinger]

Not made when I changed my Engine thank god ! Mucho $$$

I have a Westminster Block which took 5 months to source, they resin dipped it after it was worked out to 3.2 and then we fitted a John Chatham alloy head, new solid crank, new damper pully (the Southampton one) and lightened flywheel, mod'd end bearings (to rid it of a rope seal) etc etc

[stevec5]

I now have a theory on the snapped crank. My clutch has been very stiff since i bought the car, but just got used to it, when i fitted the new DMF & clutch,on the short journey I took before crank went;I noticed how light the clutch was now. I've checked thrust washers and the surfaces on the block the washers contact, and have found all the wear is against one surface and its the one which takes the strain when the clutch pedal is first depressed and forces the flywheel and hence the crank via the pressure plate towards the front of the engine. I suspect either the pressure plate/clutch had been changed before I bought it and installed incorrectly - this model has one of them auto adjusting pressure plates, and apparently if the auto adjusting springs are sprung before it's fully tightened against the pressure plate then the clutch release bearing contacts the fingers of the pressure plate at the wrong angle causing a heavy feel on the pedal and it makes clutch release more difficult. I was very careful (didn't have one of them special tools to lock auto adjustment) when fitting the new clutch and the springs didn't move. Pity didn't change clutch when I first bought it - but at £400 and that's if you do it yourself (DMF and clutch). It seemed a lot of money to spend at the time.

[stevec5]

Break was straight through oil-way on big end connected to one of the con rods.

[CitroJim]

That's a very good theory Steve... More good reason not to fit a DMF when doing a clutch and instead fit the solid conversion...

[lexi]

I think the DMF is mandatory on a 160hp C5 though? Massive torque low down. My donkey power 110 is ok with solid.
It is a bit of a sore blow that breakage Steve, What.... with money out on purchase and new dmf, then a flippin' crankshaft catastrophe as the French would say.