1.9TD fuel pump swap now non starter

[xantom]

Hi guys, I've just swapped the fuel pump from my being scrapped 1.9TD estate to my replacement 1.9TD saloon whose pump had stated to leak. The swap over went pretty much without a hitch but now the car won't start. I've checked and rechecked everything, including basically doing it all again to ensure crankshaft, camshaft and pump alignment wasn't the problem. The only symptom I can make out is that the little key symbol on the dash, which I haven't really noticed before, is initially steady then within a second or two starts flashing. I assume this means the immobiliser is preventing the pump from doing its business. All other dash lights are as normal and the starter turns over energetically. I've changed batteries now as the original was weak and now won't accept a charge from the charger; is that significant? Do any of you have any suggestions that might get the car running again? I've got the use of a sporty Seat Leon for the moment. It's a terrific piece of engineering but it doesn't appear to have suspension.

[Old-Guy]

Your problem is that the immobiliser ECU isn't operating the STOP solenoid on the new pump. There's no way the engine is going to start until you get the Key symbol to go out.

For starters I'd try locking and then unlocking the car with the key, then enter the security code on the key pad, the key pad's red light should go out and the green one light. If not, 'wrong' code. Re-program the key pad (instructions in handbook). IIRC the default code is 1111.

Someone will be along soon who's actually done a pump swap.

[xantom]

Thanks. My saloon isn't a keypad version, it has a transponder key. The old estate has a keypad. In fact I now have 2 keypads available if anyone wants them. both work and I have the codes.

[CitroJim]

You will need to de-armour both pumps and swap over the immobiliser module that sits over the stop solenoid...

Only way I'm afraid unless you want to swap the CPH and transponder under the dash with the ones from the scrapper and re-programme the keys and plips...

That entails you know the CPH confidential code for the CPH out of the scrapper...

Else, that de-armour and do away with the immobiliser totally bt wiring the stop solenoid to an ignition-switched supply...

[Old-Guy]

I was going by your signature details!

There you are - a definite answer from the Oracle.

However, what was leaking on the original pump? Would not repairing the original pump be the easier route?

[CitroJim]

Thanks. My saloon isn't a keypad version, it has a transponder key. The old estate has a keypad. In fact I now have 2 keypads available if anyone wants them. both work and I have the codes.

In that case, forget all I said about swapping transponders and CPHs..

Your only option is to de-armour and swap immobiliser modules or do away with the immobiliser completely as suggested in my last sentence...

[xantom]

Thanks Jim. Well looks like I'll be going through the nause of removing the pump again. I'm getting a bit slicker at it now. I've read many times on the forum about de-armouring the pump but I really have little idea what it means or how to do it. Is there a guide anywhere and importantly, will I need any special tools? Part of me thinks getting a pump refurbishment kit and resurrecting the original leaky one might be a more effective option. Do you have any thoughts on that? I expect refurb will mean de-armouring too as the leak is from where the top half(ish) of the pump joins the bottom.
Tom

[xantom]

Hi Old guy. Sorry about the signature. Now have a MkII saloon T reg. The old white lady estate is too far gone to invest in resurrection so she's being cannibalised for whatever parts I can imagine needing and then towed off for scrap. Now, just try to remember how to edit my signature on the site.
Tom

[Old-Guy]

Sorry, Jim posted while I was editing.

What was leaking on the original pump? Would not repairing the original pump be the easier route? De-armouring a pump is obviously designed to be a long and difficult job.

I don't suppose the White estate has a sunroof (that works) - I'm in need of a replacement motor/gearbox unit.

[CitroJim]

No worries Guy...

Sadly, to fix any leaks on a pump you must de-armour first. There is no way around it unfortunately...

A bit of guidance on the job is here

Which reminds me, I really must Wiki those articles on my website...

[xantom]

Sorry Old Guy,, no sun roof. Jim, thanks, I'll study and get on with it. I'll let you know if I succeed or totally cock up. Odds are even at the moment.
Tom

[CitroJim]

That article on overhauling the diesel pump is now in the Wiki...

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/wiki/Ov ... /VP20_pump" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Old-Guy]

Well done Jim

I really must read it sometime!

I've taken the liberty of embedding the link in the text to make it a bit more conspicuous for simple souls like me.

[CitroJim]

I've taken the liberty of embedding the link in the text to make it a bit more conspicuous for simple souls like me.

Guy, that's wonderful Thank you!!!

Now that's the Wiki working properly as we intended

[xantom]

Well, not sure what to do now. The leaky pump has serial num 601-5 on it while the replacement has 601-2. the only visible difference is what I take to be the immobiliser. The original is a metal unit while the replacement largely metal with a plastic unit as part of it. Does this mean these immobilisers are incompatible. The replacement pump came from a keypad immobilised car while the leaky original is from a key transponder system. Am i definitely going to have to refurb the leaky one or is a swap of immobiliser units still on the cards. Anyone know?
Tom