Hi all,
I have a 2013 Peugeot 5008.
I've driven down to Spain yesterday and found one of my front brake now to be grinding badly.
Local Peugeot garage want 466 euros (£350) to carry out the work for pads and discs. Feels like an outrageous price, but my recovery company are telling me that is the normal price for Spain. So I'm stuck, and have nowhere else to turn.
I could get some pads and do them myself quickly as I've changed pads many times in the past but not on this car. My concern is the electronic parking brake. Does anyone know if this applies force to the front brakes as well as the rear, or is it the same as a normal handbrake?
Also for the front are they a wind in or can I get them back with pressure?
And if by chance any of you are or know decent mechanic in the Costa Blanca, Torrevieja area then let me know, before I hand these thieves my money.
Thanks,
Martin
5008 - electronic handbrake and changing front pads
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Re: 5008 - electronic handbrake and changing front pads
HI Martin, welcome along...even if not under ideal circumstances!!
5008 is basically the same under the skin as the C4 Picasso. So, handbrake only works on the rear, and there is no need to screw in the front pistons. Seems unlikely that a 2013 car would need new discs, unless it's done mega miles, or you've wrecked the disc by running the pad out. Here's the notes I wrote up when I did the pads on our C4:
Front pads
Pretty standard stuff, but some pointers:
1. The caliper holding bolts are inside rubber tubes, with a plastic cap on, this keeps the crud out, and the bolts in good condition - which is just as well as they are 7mm allen key. Best to use one on the end of a ratchet, as the upper one is a bit awkward under the brake flexi. Once you have them undone, lever them back into the calipers using the shoulder so they clear the caliper carrier.
2. The inner pad is clipped into the piston, so comes out with the caliper, and means you need to lever the caliper out, but it comes easy enough, once you have levered off the anti rattle spring (more on that later!).
3. I used my wind back kit to push the calipers back in, but a G cramp will do just as well. If you push the piston right back in, then that's too far really. I found that the bolts then fouled the caliper (you are restricted in the caliper position, as the pad is clamped to it!). Bolts are easy to push out from the back, and can then be pushed back in once the caliper is refitted.
4. Last bit is putting the anti-rattle spring back on. Ho ho ho!! If you put both loops of the spring under the caliper then line up one end with the hole, you find that the other end is 1/2" short of going in! Eh?? Took me 15mins to get the first side on - put the top end in the hole and the loop under the caliper, the put the other end in the hole with the loop in front of the caliper. Hold the end of the spring with with long nosed pliers, and then lever the loop under the caliper with a big screwdriver. Second side went straight in.
5008 is basically the same under the skin as the C4 Picasso. So, handbrake only works on the rear, and there is no need to screw in the front pistons. Seems unlikely that a 2013 car would need new discs, unless it's done mega miles, or you've wrecked the disc by running the pad out. Here's the notes I wrote up when I did the pads on our C4:
Front pads
Pretty standard stuff, but some pointers:
1. The caliper holding bolts are inside rubber tubes, with a plastic cap on, this keeps the crud out, and the bolts in good condition - which is just as well as they are 7mm allen key. Best to use one on the end of a ratchet, as the upper one is a bit awkward under the brake flexi. Once you have them undone, lever them back into the calipers using the shoulder so they clear the caliper carrier.
2. The inner pad is clipped into the piston, so comes out with the caliper, and means you need to lever the caliper out, but it comes easy enough, once you have levered off the anti rattle spring (more on that later!).
3. I used my wind back kit to push the calipers back in, but a G cramp will do just as well. If you push the piston right back in, then that's too far really. I found that the bolts then fouled the caliper (you are restricted in the caliper position, as the pad is clamped to it!). Bolts are easy to push out from the back, and can then be pushed back in once the caliper is refitted.
4. Last bit is putting the anti-rattle spring back on. Ho ho ho!! If you put both loops of the spring under the caliper then line up one end with the hole, you find that the other end is 1/2" short of going in! Eh?? Took me 15mins to get the first side on - put the top end in the hole and the loop under the caliper, the put the other end in the hole with the loop in front of the caliper. Hold the end of the spring with with long nosed pliers, and then lever the loop under the caliper with a big screwdriver. Second side went straight in.
Richard W