C5 Mk1 Suspension Pump: Change Motor/Register New Pump

[mikevybiral]

C5 Mk1 2.2 HDI Exclusive
Pal's been troubled with 40A fuses blowing. Tried cleaning commutator, brushes, carrier a couple of times but problem remains and confidence in the car is at a low ebb.
A second hand matching motor/pump/controller assembly has been purchased ...
1. Can the motor be separated from the pump and swapped with the defective one? If so how?
2. Otherwise, what is involved in registering the 'new' motor/pump/controller with the main ecu? (Assuming a straight swap won't work without reconfiguring the ECU).
TIA.
Mike

[wheeler]

Theres only a few items that need programing in the BHI, from memory it just needs to know if it is hydractive 3 or 3+, whether it has xenon headlamps or not & if it has variable power steering or not (variable power steering is only fitted to V6 models).
If the car that you taken the BHI from has the same spec as yours then you don't need to program anything.
Don't know about just swapping the motor over as I have never tried it. the good thing is you have a knackered one to practise with.

[citroenxm]

Ive heard someone do this and they just swapped it over... its a motor pump at the end of the day doesnt need any programming at all..

[Gibbo2286]

I've been back through my earlier posts on this, here's a copy and paste of what I wrote then:


To separate the motor from the pump pull the motor body off the armature, (there's a strong magnetic force holding it) take out the three screws in the flange and you'll find that pulling the armature away you can just see the flexible joint that holds the two together, wedge a thin screwdriver through the joint and simply unscrew the armature off, it's only hand tight.

To test the motor on the bench you need to connect the two heavy wires, (the bottom one is positive) and touch the third small connector with positive wire, clamp it in the vice because if it works it will jump off the bench

I've been told since that the positive wire is 12 volt and the small connector should only need 5 volts but I'm not sure which is true, 12 volts didn't harm the one I was doing at the time nor a couple of others I've done since.

You don't have to do anything with the control units it's just a straight swap. You will have to bleed the system, all that requires is to have the top tank pressurised to about half a bar (7lbs ish) you can do that with a bicycle pump and a made up adapter, engine running and turn the steering lock to lock a few times.

[mikevybiral]

Belated thanks to all.
Mike