I'm really struggling to decide with this and have all night to worry about it as I need to put the money in the bank.
Situation is; I have 2 Hydractive Xantias, one is off the road awaiting a clutch change and the other is on the road but the suspension is stuck in hard at the front and I'm really not sure about the rear.
If I get the Lexia I can sort out the suspension
If I get the support beam I can get the gearbox off the estate ready to put in a clutch.
Lexia or new Jack
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Re: Lexia or new Jack
I voted for bar because you should be able to fix your suspension without a lexia.
Re: Lexia or new Jack
I think I had one of those really lucky days last year when I did the clutch on the 98 desire. I used a small jack and block of wood uner the sump. Box fell out and fell back in in one go if only all jobs went like that ,just over 7 hours with a small break for tea. I vote lexia as I have the air bag light on and will be in Llandudno in about fur weeks.
Re: Lexia or new Jack
arnt there any DIS-LEXIA owners near'ish to you elma, if so i would suggest the beam,
although how many times are you likely to use the beam against the DIS-LEXIA
although how many times are you likely to use the beam against the DIS-LEXIA
Regards, malcolm.
current ride a BX 1.7 TZD estate
1986 MK1 BX 1.9na D Auto(in Mothman Andy's stable )
layed up roppy 1.9TD XANT estate, now gone to meet her maker
purple and lilac metalic 2CV(VIOLET)registered to her in doors
1972 DS special been layed up aprox 31 years
current ride a BX 1.7 TZD estate
1986 MK1 BX 1.9na D Auto(in Mothman Andy's stable )
layed up roppy 1.9TD XANT estate, now gone to meet her maker
purple and lilac metalic 2CV(VIOLET)registered to her in doors
1972 DS special been layed up aprox 31 years
Re: Lexia or new Jack
Paul is nearby. I could ask him to look at the red car and get the bar. I wouldn't be able to take the estate to him though and I have a 307 with the em light on thats chucking out white smoke in my care.
I've oscilliscoped the car already and have a number of suspicions about the lack of soft mode on the red one, I don't think I can progress further without lexia though.
Number of beam uses hard to say, but I play with cars a lot.
I've oscilliscoped the car already and have a number of suspicions about the lack of soft mode on the red one, I don't think I can progress further without lexia though.
Number of beam uses hard to say, but I play with cars a lot.
Re: Lexia or new Jack
the beam makes a world of difference to removing/fitting an east west gear box,
i wished i'd bought one sooner than i did, although i have had mine a few years now,
it dont work on cars with a very short sloppy bonnet though, as it wont sit on these wing rain channels/ledges
i wished i'd bought one sooner than i did, although i have had mine a few years now,
it dont work on cars with a very short sloppy bonnet though, as it wont sit on these wing rain channels/ledges
Regards, malcolm.
current ride a BX 1.7 TZD estate
1986 MK1 BX 1.9na D Auto(in Mothman Andy's stable )
layed up roppy 1.9TD XANT estate, now gone to meet her maker
purple and lilac metalic 2CV(VIOLET)registered to her in doors
1972 DS special been layed up aprox 31 years
current ride a BX 1.7 TZD estate
1986 MK1 BX 1.9na D Auto(in Mothman Andy's stable )
layed up roppy 1.9TD XANT estate, now gone to meet her maker
purple and lilac metalic 2CV(VIOLET)registered to her in doors
1972 DS special been layed up aprox 31 years
Re: Lexia or new Jack
A Lexia is not particularly useful for diagnosing the hydractive system.
There are no active tests like forcing it into hard or soft modes, all you can do is read fault codes and check inputs, but input/sensor problems with the hydractive system are quite rare - 9 times out of 10 the fault is an electrovalve.
Mine is intermittently sticking in hard mode at the front too - it already had the diode mod a long time ago, and I've cleaned the connector on the elecrovalve recently and that seemed to help a lot but I'd say about 1/4 of the time it's still stuck in hard mode at the front. (You can notice by the car fidgeting back and forth in the "roll axis" as you travel over uneven surfaces)
This seems to be a really common problem (I've had it as an intermittent fault on all 3 of my Xantia's) and I'm beginning to think the source of the problems (once diode and electrovalve are ruled out) is a problem in the actual hydractive control block causing the shuttle valve to stick. Possibly gummed up with chewed up pieces of o-ring or metal filings...
There are no active tests like forcing it into hard or soft modes, all you can do is read fault codes and check inputs, but input/sensor problems with the hydractive system are quite rare - 9 times out of 10 the fault is an electrovalve.
Mine is intermittently sticking in hard mode at the front too - it already had the diode mod a long time ago, and I've cleaned the connector on the elecrovalve recently and that seemed to help a lot but I'd say about 1/4 of the time it's still stuck in hard mode at the front. (You can notice by the car fidgeting back and forth in the "roll axis" as you travel over uneven surfaces)
This seems to be a really common problem (I've had it as an intermittent fault on all 3 of my Xantia's) and I'm beginning to think the source of the problems (once diode and electrovalve are ruled out) is a problem in the actual hydractive control block causing the shuttle valve to stick. Possibly gummed up with chewed up pieces of o-ring or metal filings...
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
Re:
Thanks for the input, I think the majority is right and I'll go with the bar.
Addo that sounds like the sort of advice I'd give, I couldn't go against it.addo wrote:Mechanical tools ahead of electronic kit, any day. You can drive a car with jiggly suspension, can't drive one with a busted drivetrain.
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Re: Lexia or new Jack
I have an engine crane and I have found that the best thing for gearbox removal/refitting is the crane and a rope sling with a trolley jack and a block of wood supporting the sump, sometimes the engines seem to slump rearwards, a length of rope pulling the top of the motor forward can help to line it all up, never had a Hydractive Xantia, but have you exhausted all possibilities re sticking linkages on the suspension, I have not needed anything more than a Multimeter to fettle my Xantia, though a Lexia to program the key would be nice.
BXs since 1993 built 1.9 TZD turbo, got a S2 Xantia estate, brilliant car! 2013, Xantia HDI LX 110 2000 new car with 122,000, l C2 HDI Rusty rocket, C3 Picasso HDI new to me.