Defeat on every turn

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 29 May 2015, 16:51

This is really getting to me now

I cannot get I cannot get H out of C to release the shuttle parts......................I am now in great danger of destroying C in the process

Tricks ?

Hell Razor5543 · Post by **Hell Razor5543** » 29 May 2015, 17:03

I would leave it soaking in diesel overnight, to see if that loosens things up.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 29 May 2015, 17:05

Its been Plus Gassed for a week now (off the car)....not shifted it

Post by **elma** » 29 May 2015, 17:11

Gentle heat.
hairdryer or oven I guess. Not tried it yet myself but apparently its a game of chance as to weather you get in or brake it as I guess you're already finding.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 29 May 2015, 17:16

you get in or brake it as I guess you're already finding

on most things at the moment it seems as I just had another go and its buggered the base............SH173

Post by **elma** » 29 May 2015, 17:56

Unlucky, have you any spares?

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 29 May 2015, 18:16

I have less now

Post by **elma** » 29 May 2015, 18:43

Be brave. I have no spares and at least 1 not working.
So many people have said to me over the years Hydractive is a pain in the butt so don't bother with it Sx is the best.
They are totally right but I still disagree with them.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 29 May 2015, 19:12

4 more to go

steelcityuk · Post by **steelcityuk** » 29 May 2015, 22:30

They need a fair bit of heat to soften the threadlock. One of the advantages of Hydractive 1 system (the only advantage?) is there's only one central control valve that doesn't tend to go wrong.

Steve.

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 29 May 2015, 23:17

Have you tried full fat Coke? My mechanic mate from Ecuador reckons that it'll eat through most sealants/rust/different metals corrosion, just give it two days to eat its way through, he stated that they have holes drilled in large nuts used on the harbour walls to allow them to pour Coke through to sort out corrosion caused by El Niño, if nothing else it's so cheap as to be worth a try if only for the giggle factor

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 30 May 2015, 09:02

or neat bicarb

, it will separate the two components, wont be a lot of use for what it was mean though, as it will just be a pile of melted down alloy

Gibbo2286 · Post by **Gibbo2286** » 30 May 2015, 12:48

elma wrote:Gentle heat.
hairdryer or oven I guess. Not tried it yet myself but apparently its a game of chance as to weather you get in or brake it as I guess you're already finding.

The opposite might be more appropriate for metal and plastic assemblies. Try chucking them in the freezer overnight.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 30 May 2015, 16:09

Guys....it is only the LONG thread on H into C that is causing the problem.....that is alloy to ally with a thread lock paste of some king by the look.....the "grip" is too much for the thin (soft ally and corroded) head ring which is about 4mm wide.

wurlycorner · Post by **wurlycorner** » 31 May 2015, 10:54

Are you using open ended spanners, ring spanners, 12 point or 6 point sockets?

Tried mole grips? I tend to use these on stubborn old brake lines. Took a few practise ones to get the 'feel' just right for not crushing the nut but being tight enough that it won't slip, but pretty deft at it these days.

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Defeat on every turn

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