Do we know the material return pipe blocks are made off ?

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 04 May 2015, 09:47

the ones used for 3.mm and 4.mm plastic pipes for leak back LHM

What material are they made from ?
With many going hard and cracking (reportedly & I have two myself) and some on the NFP list now, we will soon need to get these made...easy to do but what material ?
OR
Would small universal alloy blocks with (select ID size) rubber inserts be better ?

My ones seemed to have suffered, as it is a car that lived in the South of France the nice warm dry weather has allowed the under-seal to survive in great shape ans the metal is wonderful......which is great !
But I seem to be finding items such as these that have suffered from being very dry/hot and have cracks at the pipe junction. (all were fitted passive without tension btw)

Worth checking as I think XantiaV6's hint that a cable tie (LHM Safe) is applied to each Union/Leg will extend the life by a very decent factor. Basically if you see one you can do this to, Do It as it is a very good preventative.

wurlycorner · Post by **wurlycorner** » 04 May 2015, 12:10

I would have thought PTFE would be suitable???

Gibbo2286 · Post by **Gibbo2286** » 04 May 2015, 14:47

If you mean the octopus middle block on the BX I made one with an aluminium block and Kunifer pipe.

Post by **xantia_v6** » 04 May 2015, 18:27

I was going to suggest drilling an aluminum block and poking in the tubes with a couple of o-rings on each one.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 04 May 2015, 19:11

This type

(i have added cable ties to this unit to support the edges as advised by XantiaV6)

The trouble with alloy is the weight, many of these units are "free floating" supported by the pipes themselves and that is a worry long term.
Nitrile Rubber blocks/rods seem a good approach at the moment

addo · Post by **addo** » 04 May 2015, 22:09

The way they "work" under tools and heat is awfully like cold cast polyurethane. You'd do well to damage the Rislan tubes.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 05 May 2015, 00:43

addo wrote:The way they "work" under tools and heat is awfully like cold cast polyurethane.
They do

You'd do well to damage the Rislan tubes.
???, do not understand

addo · Post by **addo** » 05 May 2015, 01:09

I mean, the plastic tubes are rather tough. Then, as the saying has it, some people can break an anvil with a feather.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 05 May 2015, 07:14

Ahhhh OK, I agree, Alloy may also do harm to them.....I also think a rubber insert would also be needed to ensure a seal, a couple of O rings are maybe too little to do this ?

Anybody got a email for a Citroen Technical dept in France so I could try and ask them directly ?

Gibbo2286 · Post by **Gibbo2286** » 05 May 2015, 09:27

Looks like Nylon to me.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 05 May 2015, 09:42

Taken this morning.

The split, common as all of them., however : Note that even after cleaning last night with brake cleaner and cotton buds, the material is sweating LHM and is quite wet in the thicker areas. So it is an absorbent polymer of some sort which may be advantageous for long life of the item/material.

Note the radial splits at the neck....tension and age is the problem here....and it is why XantiaV6's hint on the cable tie support is a good one and shows why you MUST position the cable tie ONLY at the neck area alined with the edge

Post by **elma** » 05 May 2015, 10:54

My y piece one on the front suspension return pipes drips. I was going to nick it off green or replace it. I have a decent 3d printer though. Currently I only have pla but abs is on order, if any of the available plastics are suitable I'll be able to make new blocks and potentially modify the design to avoid zip tying. If they are nylon I can print that, just need to order a spool.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 05 May 2015, 11:15

That would be a great way of doing it but it would still need drilling to be smooth. So a great way of making the blocks, freeze them and drill a short section.
It would be advantageous to thicken the edge and incorporate push-on short metal support collar made from thin wall stainless tube.
This could be made easy to push on by designing a beveled edge, it only needs a little pressure to stop the long term splitting.
Or
just keep it simple and use a stainless cable tie over a thickened edge.

Post by **elma** » 05 May 2015, 11:52

With the 3d printer it would be quite easy to make it a push click type connector using the bevel on the pipes to restrain the part. We've been redesigning the printer for nearly a month now getting the accuracy decent, its really good at holes and may not need reaming when printed. I'm too busy today and tomorrow, I'll do my best to get a cad drawing of what I've got in mind up shortly. With any luck I'll be back from college about 23.00 so it may get done tonight, wouldn't hold breath though..

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 05 May 2015, 12:00

No need to rush this, lets get it perfect and show these Frenchmen who have control of the Citroen NFP Wand a thing or two

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Do we know the material return pipe blocks are made off ?

Do we know the material return pipe blocks are made off ?

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Re: Do we know the material return pipe blocks are made off