Brake caliper worry

[blademonkey]

hi folks,im looking for some info on how to properly fit new front brake calipers to my 2004 citroen c5 2.0 hdi vtr,it says on the box that caliper is factory preset and the handbrake lever must not be touched prior to fitting.
I have been reading on various forums of the scare stories people have had when fitting front brake calipers and I am a bit worried about not doing this correctly,can anyone please give me some clear and precise info on how to fit these calipers and also how to bleed the brake system in the right way.
many thanks.(apprehensive diy mechanic)

[chinkostu]

I think if you moved the arm it would just try and adjust the mechanism inside the caliper. Not sure if thats a massive issue as you can rewind the piston?

[Stewart(oily)]

The only thing to watch is that you adjust the handbrake cables so that the caliper lever is not being pulled at all when the handbrake is off, and avoid moving the lever until the caliper and pads are fitted.

[citronut]

i would fit them and the pads then bleed them with the cables disconnected/unhooked, then press the brake pedal very hard two or three times, this will set/adjust up the hand brake mechanism inside the caliper,
then reattach the cables and adjust them up tilkl just before they start pulling on the lever

[blademonkey]

Thanks for the replies folks,I will fit calipers without connecting up the handbrake cables like u all advised and then bleed my brakes,does anyone know the correct bleeding procedure for my car,as I have always bled my past cars starting furthest away from the master cylinder and working around car back to front caliper again,and also does the car engine have to be on,thanks again.

[BX]

Unless you have a diagnostic tool that can activate the abs pump make sure that you do not let the master cylinder go empty. Keep it topped up throughout. I the abs pump airlocks it can be difficult to bleed. This applies to most cars and vans nowadays.

[blademonkey]

Thanks bx,I will keep an eye on the master cylinder and make sure I keep topping it up during bleeding.Do u know if I have to keep the engine switched on during bleeding. Many thanks.

[citronut]

i use one of these

http://tinyurl.com/o45lsxs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

i believe the likes of Hal frauds and scewfix sell these as well

no pedal up down up down up down up down up down up down up down up down , just connect it up with the correct quantity of fluid in the bottle and air in the trye your using

[MikeT]

does anyone know the correct bleeding procedure for my car,as I have always bled my past cars starting furthest away from the master cylinder and working around car back to front caliper again,and also does the car engine have to be on,thanks again.

EDIT: Sorry, missed the fact yours is C5. Might be different to Xantia procedure (which is what I've quoted below).

My Haynes manual says the correct order is LH-Front, RH-Front, LH-Rear, RH-Rear.

If you're only disturbing the front circuits, you can even ignore bleeding the rears to save time.

Set the suspension to HIGH and have someone (or something) apply brake pedal pressure (engine running) then bleed until no air bubbles are seen being emmited. Ensure the hydraulic fluid is maintained above the MIN mark at all times to avoid it sucking air in through the reservoir. Once complete, top up LHM to correct level.

[Hell Razor5543]

does anyone know the correct bleeding procedure for my car,as I have always bled my past cars starting furthest away from the master cylinder and working around car back to front caliper again,and also does the car engine have to be on,thanks again.

EDIT: Sorry, missed the fact yours is C5. Might be different to Xantia procedure (which is what I've quoted below).

My Haynes manual says the correct order is LH-Front, RH-Front, LH-Rear, RH-Rear.

If you're only disturbing the front circuits, you can even ignore bleeding the rears to save time.

Set the suspension to HIGH and have someone (or something) apply brake pedal pressure (engine running) then bleed until no air bubbles are seen being emmited. Ensure the hydraulic fluid is maintained above the MIN mark at all times to avoid it sucking air in through the reservoir. Once complete, top up LHM to correct level.

Do NOT use LHM, as this is for green blooded Citroens. What you need is LDS, which is, AFAIK, orange. Other than that, OK.

[Gibbo2286]

does anyone know the correct bleeding procedure for my car,as I have always bled my past cars starting furthest away from the master cylinder and working around car back to front caliper again,and also does the car engine have to be on,thanks again.

EDIT: Sorry, missed the fact yours is C5. Might be different to Xantia procedure (which is what I've quoted below).

My Haynes manual says the correct order is LH-Front, RH-Front, LH-Rear, RH-Rear.

If you're only disturbing the front circuits, you can even ignore bleeding the rears to save time.

Set the suspension to HIGH and have someone (or something) apply brake pedal pressure (engine running) then bleed until no air bubbles are seen being emmited. Ensure the hydraulic fluid is maintained above the MIN mark at all times to avoid it sucking air in through the reservoir. Once complete, top up LHM to correct level.

Do NOT use LHM, as this is for green blooded Citroëns. What you need is LDS, which is, AFAIK, orange. Other than that, OK.

That's wrong the braking system on the C5 is separate to the suspension and requires brake fluid, not LHM or LDS. The handbook suggests using only fluid supplied by the dealer but DOT 4 fluid is the generic type.

[Hell Razor5543]

Oops, sorry about that error. I didn't realise that the brakes on a C5 were no longer part of the same system as used by the suspension and steering (as they were on earlier green blooded Citroens), but I knew that LHM was the wrong fluid to use.

[citronut]

yes James
the XANT is the last proper hydraulic citroen

[BX]

The Gunshots easibleed as recommended by Citronut is indeed very useful and good value for money. However the advice regarding the abs still stands. If you let it airlock you really need a suitable diagnostic tool to bleed it. Otherwise you may end up with either a spongy pedal or a pedal that creeps down if you keep your foot on it.
The c5 uses standard brake fluid DOT4.
As you are not going to allow air into the brake lines it doesn't matter whither you do the left or right hand one first. It is probably better to complete the job on one side before starting the other one.

[citronut]

and use a

https://www.google.co.uk/#q=brake+pipe+clamp&tbm=shop" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

as this will make sure you dont allow air back up the circuit,

brakes are normally dual circuit these days so obviously if you allow too much fluid out whilst the flexi is disconnected, the opposite read will require bleeding as well