Citroen C5

[michael maurice]

I have a 2003 52 plate Citroen C5 estate 2.0L diesel which has suffered from a few problems.

1) The headlamps require replacing, this is in hand and will hopefully be done in the next week or two.

2) The nearside handbrake is not efficient according to the MOT tester. Now I understand the handbrake mechanism is usually the cause of this, has anyone successfully removed the mechanism, cleaned it and lubricated it? Does the caliper have to come off the car?

3) The exhaust needs replacing, I've been quoted around £300 to have it done, is that reasonable or expensive?

Thanks

Michael

[Stickyfinger]

Hi...

2...It is always the nearside, it likes in the gutter ...Car on high and CHOCK the REAR well...., stands to support (never use only a jack with a Citroen, they can kill you) and take off both front wheels. Un-clip the handbrake cable from the fork.

Open car and slowly try handbrake....do the cables run free with zero resistance ? IF yes go to next stage. IF not, then you have either a seized cable or the guide tube is rotten and needs replacing.
(I bet this is the problem) Cables are an easy fix (fill the tube with a lightweight oil and use the old cable to try and lube it ready for the replacement). Guide tubes are a little more of a fiddle.

If the cables are OK, then apply PLUSGas to the base of the cable cam arm where it attaches to the caliper, grip it with the biggest mole grips you have and start wiggling/apply PLUS gas and keep at it until loose....my problem just kept coming back and I blew a disk and pad set in the end due to the handbrake finally seizing.

In the end, the best way is a recon caliper, (NOT scrapper one as they all suffer)

[citronut]

exactly as Mr Sticky says, cables should be the first port of call, if the lever/s on the caliper/s are not returning to there fully off position, the hand brake mechanism in the caliper will not adjust up as its mean to,

obviously the cables binding ( seems very common on the C5's ) or the levers partially seized will stop the mechanism adjusting up

[michael maurice]

Thank you Mr Sticky and Stickyfinger, will do so in the next week or so and report back

[daviemck2006]

My one needed a cable and guide tube on the nearside. It's a bit fiddly replacing the tube, it lives above the exhaust heat shield. I managed by removing the fixings of the heat shield and some bending of it, and lots a swearing!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[Stickyfinger]

Agree with the above, IF there is any rot on the cable the tubes will have rot inside them and will fail again even if you do manage to free them up and replace just the cable (ask me how I know)

[daviemck2006]

I got the cable out of the tube, couldn't get new cable back in. Wasted so much time trying I wish I had just gone for the tube to start with. I got a new tube for about 17 quid off eBay if I remember correctly.

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[wurlycorner]

Why do the headlights need replacing? Have they gone cloudy? It's only surface discoloration and you can polish them to restore them clear, rather than replace.

[Stickyfinger]

Above is correct....the 3M kit is fantastic...but run any drills/polish wheels used VERY VERY VERY SLOW

[Xantidote]

the 3M kit is fantastic

Alternatively, finer & finer grades of wet & dry plus elbow grease, ending up with 1500/2000 grade if you can get it, and finishing off with (in my case) Solvol Autosol which is a very mildly abrasive chrome cleaner. On the internet, I've seen reference to using toothpaste for the final polishing. Only used this treatment on 1 headlamp, but it certainly works.

[Stickyfinger]

I have some "Dental Technician" polishing wax blocks now...3 diff grades and apply with the edge of a slow cloth mop on a drill (or best the bench motor), Dremell small Hand Drills are to small fore the job.