Sorry (or maybe not as the car was working so smoothly for ages), but I am having a serious problem as I do need my car for my work. Today the car started acting funny when I came home from the shop -> when changing gears I took ages for the revs to come down and that made shifting gears pretty ackward. I didn't think much of it first, but now I do. I had to leave again and I had problems starting the car. It starts but when I only slightly touch the accelerator I stalls. I managed to get it running (trial and error) and went off. On the motorway the engine performed fine, but when I took the exit and had to stop at the roundabout the engine rev'd to 5500 by itself (clutch depressed and no foot on the accelerator). I pulled over and after reving the engine myself it seemed to settle down. After this the engine behaved normal, but after the shopping it was very difficult to get it running again. Just before I went out again to try to start the car and it is fairly impossible to get it running again.
Tomorrow I was going to the garage to make an appointment for its 99k mls service, but at this rate I won't even make it there.
Maybe this all is my own stupidity as I should have booked the service earlier (FCSH though). By the way, the engine make a funny (rattling?) sound near the manifold, but it aint the manifold.
Does anybody have an idea what could be the problem here as I rely on this great car (no car means no salary as I am contracting at the moment!).
Cheers,
John (still learning lots about my car!)
Citroen Xantia 1.8i 16v desire
1997
98.5k mls
Full Citroen Service History (every 9k miles!)
Back again :-( .... engine very eractic :-(
Moderator: RichardW
[:)]
Hi
There are a couple of things that spring to mind. Check there are no split vacuum or air pipes near the air intake.
It may also b the idle stepper motor a bit gummed up, which is held in with 2 screws and can be cleaned with some carb cleaner. The vehicle may need a run after you have cleaned it so the ECU can relearn its position.
Lastly it may be something else like air or coolent sensor at fault. Does the engine light come on? From times gone by i hope u are taking it to a citroen dealer or garage with Full diagnostic equipment as they can read any fault codes easily. If u take it to a garage which does not you may end up paying for there <b><i>'Lets see if this works</i></b>' experiment!! Good luck and let us know what sorts it out!! [:D]
Hi
There are a couple of things that spring to mind. Check there are no split vacuum or air pipes near the air intake.
It may also b the idle stepper motor a bit gummed up, which is held in with 2 screws and can be cleaned with some carb cleaner. The vehicle may need a run after you have cleaned it so the ECU can relearn its position.
Lastly it may be something else like air or coolent sensor at fault. Does the engine light come on? From times gone by i hope u are taking it to a citroen dealer or garage with Full diagnostic equipment as they can read any fault codes easily. If u take it to a garage which does not you may end up paying for there <b><i>'Lets see if this works</i></b>' experiment!! Good luck and let us know what sorts it out!! [:D]
[:)]
Hi
There are a couple of things that spring to mind. Check there are no split vacuum or air pipes near the air intake.
It may also b the idle stepper motor a bit gummed up, which is held in with 2 screws and can be cleaned with some carb cleaner. The vehicle may need a run after you have cleaned it so the ECU can relearn its position.
Lastly it may be something else like air or coolent sensor at fault. Does the engine light come on? From times gone by i hope u are taking it to a citroen dealer or garage with Full diagnostic equipment as they can read any fault codes easily. If u take it to a garage which does not you may end up paying for there <b><i>'Lets see if this works</i></b>' experiment!! Good luck and let us know what sorts it out!! [:D]
Hi
There are a couple of things that spring to mind. Check there are no split vacuum or air pipes near the air intake.
It may also b the idle stepper motor a bit gummed up, which is held in with 2 screws and can be cleaned with some carb cleaner. The vehicle may need a run after you have cleaned it so the ECU can relearn its position.
Lastly it may be something else like air or coolent sensor at fault. Does the engine light come on? From times gone by i hope u are taking it to a citroen dealer or garage with Full diagnostic equipment as they can read any fault codes easily. If u take it to a garage which does not you may end up paying for there <b><i>'Lets see if this works</i></b>' experiment!! Good luck and let us know what sorts it out!! [:D]
Monkeymon!
There are no lights on at all -> that's what is confusing me. I read the Hayes manual before and I think it is just due to service. I had a simular problem before just AFTER a service. I went back 2 days later and they told me they had to put different sparkplugs in as they didn't have the proper ones in. The Cit garage I use has the proper equipment (that is why I stick whit Cit garages - it is cheaper to find another garage, but as you said, trial and error doesn't work always and could turn out to be more expensive).
I think I did "srew" up a bit myself. The last service was at 88k miles as I had the spheres done and took the service at the same time, rather then waiting for the 90k miles.
Referring back to the Hayes manual: I think it is either the spark plugs (just finished) or a clogged up air filter (wishful thinking). The only part that is extremely worrying me is the noise near the manifold!
There are no lights on at all -> that's what is confusing me. I read the Hayes manual before and I think it is just due to service. I had a simular problem before just AFTER a service. I went back 2 days later and they told me they had to put different sparkplugs in as they didn't have the proper ones in. The Cit garage I use has the proper equipment (that is why I stick whit Cit garages - it is cheaper to find another garage, but as you said, trial and error doesn't work always and could turn out to be more expensive).
I think I did "srew" up a bit myself. The last service was at 88k miles as I had the spheres done and took the service at the same time, rather then waiting for the 90k miles.
Referring back to the Hayes manual: I think it is either the spark plugs (just finished) or a clogged up air filter (wishful thinking). The only part that is extremely worrying me is the noise near the manifold!
I agree with the possibilty of the idler stepper sticking occasionally. It could also be a split hose associated with the intake area.
We recently had a Pug 405 of a friend of mines doing weird things. The car would surge and sometimes totally stop; had a tendency to stall as he drove into a car park, wouldn't start, call for help, when it arrived starts first time & so on.
I got it started & could hear a fairly loud sucking noise, just like a car with a loose air filter but couldn't find it. I phoned my son who had all his gear with him & he put a lambda meter on the exhaust & found it was running lean. A close search found a hose near the end of the motor attached to the intake system had been cut through by the clip. Removed, trimmed & refitted and no more problems. A piece of hose or even water in a hand spray around the joints will cause them to whistle if a leak exists & helps isolate it. Another service item that will cause similar problems is the fuel filter; when was it last changed?
The manifold noise I suspect could be the guts of your catalytic converter rattling around; don't worry about it until you have to. Mine's done it for years, I find turning the radio as good a fix as any.[:D]
Alan S
We recently had a Pug 405 of a friend of mines doing weird things. The car would surge and sometimes totally stop; had a tendency to stall as he drove into a car park, wouldn't start, call for help, when it arrived starts first time & so on.
I got it started & could hear a fairly loud sucking noise, just like a car with a loose air filter but couldn't find it. I phoned my son who had all his gear with him & he put a lambda meter on the exhaust & found it was running lean. A close search found a hose near the end of the motor attached to the intake system had been cut through by the clip. Removed, trimmed & refitted and no more problems. A piece of hose or even water in a hand spray around the joints will cause them to whistle if a leak exists & helps isolate it. Another service item that will cause similar problems is the fuel filter; when was it last changed?
The manifold noise I suspect could be the guts of your catalytic converter rattling around; don't worry about it until you have to. Mine's done it for years, I find turning the radio as good a fix as any.[:D]
Alan S
John -
The stepper motor is not supposed to stick out that much when engine is warm - it's controlled by the ECU.
A typical indication of a worn throttle potientiometer is exactly that mysterious behaviour like the engine gets it's own life - and decides by itself the revs when supposed to return to idle.
It's the flat device at end of throttle flap axle on the air intake.
The throttle potientiometer is in principle a simple carbon track potientiometer - like you have on most older stereos. The slider wears down the carbon track - then the ECU gets haywock by the erroneous signal - and commands the stepper motor to do odd things on the idle position.
Remove the air ducting for the inlet to visual inspect the situation down there. It's quite easy to recon if the stepper motor sticks - or do some odd rapid works when you play with the throttle cable. It should'nt even be necessary to have the engine running - just the key turned into drive position.
Try the home button above and search on-line shop for stock no & price & have a peep here - if you decide to replace this device :
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=5157
The stepper motor is not supposed to stick out that much when engine is warm - it's controlled by the ECU.
A typical indication of a worn throttle potientiometer is exactly that mysterious behaviour like the engine gets it's own life - and decides by itself the revs when supposed to return to idle.
It's the flat device at end of throttle flap axle on the air intake.
The throttle potientiometer is in principle a simple carbon track potientiometer - like you have on most older stereos. The slider wears down the carbon track - then the ECU gets haywock by the erroneous signal - and commands the stepper motor to do odd things on the idle position.
Remove the air ducting for the inlet to visual inspect the situation down there. It's quite easy to recon if the stepper motor sticks - or do some odd rapid works when you play with the throttle cable. It should'nt even be necessary to have the engine running - just the key turned into drive position.
Try the home button above and search on-line shop for stock no & price & have a peep here - if you decide to replace this device :
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=5157
Problem solved 
It appeared to be the stepper motor. Still confused why the revs went up to 5500 by itself (when the engine was warm), but the car works fine again. I know when the stepper motor is buggered it idles eratic, but what I saw Sunday what a bit too weird. Ah well, in 2 weeks the car will have its deserved standard 99k service and it should be even better.
After today I even more appreciate my green blooded car. I had to hire a car (lack of courtesy cars at the dealer) and got a Nissan Almera. It was ok to drive, but the road I have to take to go to work is cross country and quite bumpy (only found that out today ... LOL) Thanks for all the help guys ....
Cheers,
John
It appeared to be the stepper motor. Still confused why the revs went up to 5500 by itself (when the engine was warm), but the car works fine again. I know when the stepper motor is buggered it idles eratic, but what I saw Sunday what a bit too weird. Ah well, in 2 weeks the car will have its deserved standard 99k service and it should be even better.
After today I even more appreciate my green blooded car. I had to hire a car (lack of courtesy cars at the dealer) and got a Nissan Almera. It was ok to drive, but the road I have to take to go to work is cross country and quite bumpy (only found that out today ... LOL) Thanks for all the help guys ....
Cheers,
John