2.0 hdi 136 camshaft seal replacement

[johntom]

Hi
I've got the cambelt off my 2008 2.0 hdi 136 and want to replace the camshaft oil seal. I have the flywheel and camshaft pinned and the belt off. How do I replace the camshaft oil seal?
Thanks

[citroenxm]

You will need to remove the Cam Pully off the end of the cam... and possibly need to slacken all the rocker cover bolts, to help loosen the "Orface" the seal sits in, then VERY CAREFULLY lever out the old seal, catch any oil loss, and press in CAREFULLY the new seal.

[johntom]

Will the valves and Pistons meet if I remove the camshaft timing pin ?

[citroenxm]

With the speed you might move the cam shaft there is NO risk of any damage. Its when theres contact at speed damage happens!

You can quite safely remove the cam timing pin, do the seal, then put the cam pully back on, time it back up on the timing pin and tighten up the rocker cover again!

[johntom]

That's great thank you

[citronut]

to loosen the cam sprocket bolt o make sure the locking bolt is wound in plenty, then place a 16mm spanner pointing upwards and give it one sharp blow with an ammer, this is enough to slacken the bolt, then remove the locking bolt and sprocket, pries the seal out with a screw driver carefully, and mind you do not scrape the alloy of the seal seat with,

i usually tap the screw driver blade in nearest to the cam shaft and never between the engine casing and seal

[johntom]

Hi
Changed it over and the cam sprocket didn't move! Only thing I'm questioning now is the oil seal looks to be further in than the original but I was very careful tapping it home and it doesn't look distorted. The seal sits about 4-5mm inside, is this about right?

[citronut]

usually they should be flush with the casing/head end face, but as long as it does not foul out inside and the sealing inner lip is still on a smooth section of cam, and the same diameter as the section it was sealing on in the first place, it should be fine,

if/when tapping these in i always tap with the tapping device across the seal and face of what ever im fitting it into, quite offten though these will push in with finger pressure

[johntom]

Hi
Crank and camshaft oil seals replaced (removed and fitted another camshaft seal flush to the block)
I have fitted the belt and turned 4 revolutions etc, the pointer on the tensioner is in the same place but it bobs about when I'm turning the crank, is this normal ???

[citronut]

yep the bobin auto tenssioner is normal whilst the engine is cranking/rotating

[johntom]

Thanks, when fitting the belt i had to move the tensioner wheel away from the belt with the Allen key, then move the pointer fully clockwise (to about 7 o'clock position) to get the belt on, when I let go the arrow was 3 o'clock position and above the 'normal' notch indicator. Should the Allen key hole be in any particular position at this point as it just turns ?

[citronut]

Thanks, when fitting the belt i had to move the tensioner wheel away from the belt with the Allen key, then move the pointer fully clockwise (to about 7 o'clock position) to get the belt on, when I let go the arrow was 3 o'clock position and above the 'normal' notch indicator. Should the Allen key hole be in any particular position at this point as it just turns ?

i dont like these auto tenssioners, if i have a normal eccentric tenssioner to hand when replacing belts/tenssioners,
i would choose the eccentric one every time

[johntom]

Unfortunately that's whats in the Dayco kit, any tips on tensioning and why is there a preliminary tension where the tension is set too high, followed by 4 rotations of the crank, remove crank pulley, refit Case and crank pulley then reset the tension to the correct mark etc/ is it to stretch the belt?

[Stickyfinger]

is it to stretch the belt?

It will be to set the max, then back down to normal.....the max is set by the belt length and thus this method will always be correct despite any differences (slight) in the length of the belt. (?)

[citronut]

is it to stretch the belt?

It will be to set the max, then back down to normal.....the max is set by the belt length and thus this method will always be correct despite any differences (slight) in the length of the belt. (?)

shirlley its not to do with belt length but just the tenssion load on said belt,

i have never seen instructions stating tyo set it further than the pointers being in line,

usually it states set the pointer exactly in line with the V in the back plate, then remove all locking pins/tools, rotate the engine X amount of turns, then refit the locking pins/tools and re/check alignment of the pointer to the V in the back plate