Changing the clutch on a ZX TD Volcane
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SplendiferousII
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 30 Oct 2003, 15:01
Changing the clutch on a ZX TD Volcane
Ok guys any hints or advise before I start? Is it easiest to take the whole engine gearbox out or to do it in situ. Bearing on mind I'll be doing the job at home. anything to be aware of or any special tools required? Thanks in advance.
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
The ZX drivepack is similar to the BX drivepack.
On the BX it's possible to remove the box down under the LHS wheelarch - bet the ZX is the same.
Have the front jacked up high - but remember the driveaxles must be removed. This means loosening the hub nut with weight on wheels - and draining the gearoil.
Then simply have the engine supported while the box is removed.
A good tip is to use long pinbolts on refitting the box - as it's soooo much easier to slide the box on then. Then simply replace each pinbolt at a time with the original mounting bolts.
Remember to remove flywheel and replace the crank oil seal behind. You don't want to re-do the whole job just to replace this seal a couple of months later [:0]
The job is pretty straighforward - as you simply visually check & remove anything hindering the box coming out.
Beware of the lower flywheel cover (half moon plate). This bolts to the box - but reaches behind the flywheel - holding the whole box if you try remove it swearing how stuck the box is [;)]
And finally : the box is much heavier than you may think - be carefull [8)]
merry Xmas [^]
On the BX it's possible to remove the box down under the LHS wheelarch - bet the ZX is the same.
Have the front jacked up high - but remember the driveaxles must be removed. This means loosening the hub nut with weight on wheels - and draining the gearoil.
Then simply have the engine supported while the box is removed.
A good tip is to use long pinbolts on refitting the box - as it's soooo much easier to slide the box on then. Then simply replace each pinbolt at a time with the original mounting bolts.
Remember to remove flywheel and replace the crank oil seal behind. You don't want to re-do the whole job just to replace this seal a couple of months later [:0]
The job is pretty straighforward - as you simply visually check & remove anything hindering the box coming out.
Beware of the lower flywheel cover (half moon plate). This bolts to the box - but reaches behind the flywheel - holding the whole box if you try remove it swearing how stuck the box is [;)]
And finally : the box is much heavier than you may think - be carefull [8)]
merry Xmas [^]
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oilyspanner
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: 26 Oct 2003, 16:08
Another tip is that you must remove the long bolt/pin that goes through the gearbox mounting before the box will go back in (Gravity means that it will come out okay) If you need to replace the cam belt soon then I would recommend removing the whole thing as the belt is very easy to replace whilst its out, as well as those little rubber hoses on the back of the block, My local hire place does an engine crane for about £25 for the weekend.Seasonal greetings
Stewart
Stewart
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SplendiferousII
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 30 Oct 2003, 15:01