Mr Chris Salters new acquasition

[citronut]

at my workshop for some TLC



i got round to tinkering on her today, got her running well sort of, at least more than she were anyhow,
dont think she has ran since 96 or 98,

aparently she has had several people attempt to get her doing, even bin sitting in a workshop/car repairer's who gave up trying, now said garage is closing down and previous owner is moving house, so Chris Salter saved/purchased her, and she was transported from Sittingbourne on a flat bed to my workshop

[citronut]

yesterday ( Saturday )

previous persons attempts they have had her fire up but immediately die every time within a second or so,

in the process of getting her running i went through the usually,
checked points ( them orible cassette jobbies ) i check and set the gap on these with the DIZZY on the bench (well in the vice actually ), with the vac advance unit removed i scratch the surface of the cassette tin work in line with the breaker fiber/nylon heal,
then i put the cassette back in place in such a position i can get an allen key into the adjuster whilst still being able to get a narrow 16thou feeler gauge into the contacts,

i rotate the drive of the DIZZY so one cam lobe is in line with the scratch mark i made earlier, now twiddleadjuster screw with the allen till i have 16 thou'ish,
now bung it back together and onto the engine,

took the top of the carb ( someone had swapped the carb for an earlier one without the idle jet shut off solenoid ) to find both float arms bent/kinked all over the place, i soprted and set the floats to 10mm from the lid gasket to the center dimple of each one
( mind/check the tag/lug that sits on the float valve is at right angles the the U shaped float hanger/bracket ),

bunged that all back together still no more go than to start with ,

took the fan cowling off ( it is necessary to undo the carb manifold heater pipe clamps to unbolt and lift the top cowling lids ) to check both cam belt's/cam timming, found the left cam sprocket out by one tooth,
set that and cranked her over and she fired up and continued to run, albeit very rough and exhaust blowing loud, as i had not reconnected to manifold heater
( exhaust ) pipes,

on reconnecting these she reverted back to the state she was in ( running a second or so and stopping ),

so it became obvious the fault was either the exhaust box was blocked solid ( collapsed baffles ) or the carb manifold had corroded through between the induction and heater through way,
as the exhaust had a gaping great hole on its underside the fault must be the carb manifold,

i will up date once i have had time to disassemble the manifold to inspect

[myglaren]

More progress there than the others accomplished Malcolm.
The distributors are great fun to work with, aren't they

[CitroJim]

I'm going to enjoy this one Malcolm...

Well done so far.. You're a proper old-school engineer who can think things through because you properly understand how engines work...

I used to set BL Metro points on the bench. Far easier to whip the whole dizzy out than faff around in the engine bay...

[citronut]

when i worked for H G Havaux ( Whatlington garage on the A21 ) i know i know but i had to use the name of your favorite road Jim you understand,

back in the 80's we used to have a test bed to check, test and set up DIZZY's on the bench, which came in very useful when setting up these orible SEV Marchal cassette points,

regarding blocked exhaust we had a customers GS in as it would not rev at all ( flat as the proverbial doo dah )

again after checking all the usual someone suggested maybe the exhaust were blocked, so the boss's son disconnected the front to rear pipe from the Y piece
( two into one bit of the exhaust system ),
then the car reved fully as it should,
turned out the baffle in the rear box had collapsed, so blocked the exhaust off

[citronut]

well i dismantled the manifold today and cant see any corrosion going through into the induction from the exhaust manifold heater ports,
so anyone got any ideas ???????, very strange

[citronut]

well on removing and inspecting the aluminum car manifold block there is no obvious corrosion eaten through between the induction and exhaust,

anyone suggest a blinding flash on input?????

[macplaxton]

Too early in the morning Malc for blinding flashes, I'll see if a coffee makes any difference, but I doubt it.

So let me get this straight, runs like a dog and stays running like a dog when the hotspot pipes are disconnected. Dies after a few seconds when they are?

[citronut]

with the manifold heater pipes disconnected she runs and revs fine except as would be expected with an exhaust leak at the manfolds,

as soon as i reconnect them she starts and stops more or less in a second/instantaneously, probably not more than a couple of seconds at the most,

[macplaxton]

So in the first case, if you block off those leaks, does she run and rev fine without exception?

If so, has to be a leak of the not-immediately-obvious-but-obviously-there variety causing exhaust to get back around to the inlet.

Perhaps the aluminium is porous, could you not try seal it with paint/lacquer or something to seal it up (even just for testing purposes), or find another manifold kicking around?

Pressure test it? Bombard it with exhaust gasses somehow (even if rigged up to the tailpipe of another running car) and "sniff" the other side with an EGA?

[macplaxton]

...rip it all out and go EFI?

[Mothman]

Ime going to see this tomorrow, maybe i can bring an extra hammer or 2 if that helps Malcolm?

Andy

[citronut]

had her running again today ( manifold hot spot pipes still disconnected though) , but as i dont have/cant find lurking in the dark corners of me shed a Solex carb manifold,
i dusted off a WOBER with manifold ( all be it probably from a GSA ) as it has the wrong throttle connection to attach the cable,
so had a friend cranking her whilst i twiddled with the choke and throttle,

i think she actually ran better than the last attempt, till i ran out of go go juice , get some more tomorrow and try again,

might also have another dig in the Aladdin cave ( me shed ) to see if i can find an earlier WOBER with the correct throttle cable hook up,

then i might even get brave and re/connect the hot spot pipes

[Northern_Mike]

I might have a sole carb manifold. I'll have a look when I go up North this weekend. Got loads of GS spares.

Vorsprung berk Technik

[citronut]

ok hun
how much do you want as a job lot

i haven't forgotten about the pricing up of parts you requested, obviously the top mount and T/M bearing will be the same price as the first one's,
the OE price and part No. for the roll bar bush's are

509465 and they are around £24 squid for the pair from the dealer, but i have seen some through a goooogly search for around £10 for the pair free carriage