TU Alternator Top Mount. Also TUD Engine

[Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur]

with thanks for help on previous posts, anyone give me a bit of guidance re Alternator top mount on a 1527cc TUD in a Mk2 Pug 106 'R' plate.

The BoL tells me to "prize out the cover shield fastener to allow the cover to be lifted slightly to improve access to the upper [alternator mounting] bolt" and gives me two illustrations, neither of which are very helpful
Haynes Manual 1882, Page 5A.3. "7 Alternator Removal & Refitting", Item 4

this mysterious cover shield fastener is where? And covers what? Or is this just plain incorrect?

I can't see the top mount from any angle let alone work out a spanner to use and how to get to it; either via underneath or the wheelarch (with the wheelarch liner removed of course). There's no view from the top (fuel pump's in the way) and virtually none from the side (the top of the alternator is far enough up that the inner wing's in the way).

There must be a top mount though, coz having undone the bottom bolt, the alternator wasn't gonna budge and I actually let it be (I was only looking for an oil leak, more later)

I know, as I'm sure we all do; from painful experience how just one recalcitrant fitting can cause havoc; and this seems like one such possibility.

It rather appears I'm gonna need to be doing an engine change, which will also involve me overcoming my possibly irrational fear of successfully bleeding a cooling system
(anyone got a 1.5 TUD in good working order?
It turns out the oil leak I was looking for is coming from the head gasket (front left corner, usual place) and then dripping down behind the belt and the alternator, so it likely won't be long before the cooling system's pressurising and over-heating (none such woes as yet). Location doesn't really matter. I'm in South Gloucestershire.
I'd far rather put a secondhand engine in it than get involved in doing a head gasket...and with a big job such as that spending a couple of hours faffing with an alternator mounting is about as welcome as a hole in the head.

Also, while I'm at it..... a 30mm 1/2 inch drive socket on the hub-nuts using a common or garden 2ft breaker bar.... a bit optimistic?? Something heavier duty required?

[citronut]

i have a brand new still on the pallet it came from the factory a TUD5 engine with new OE oil filter and cam belt not fitted,

regarding the alternator top mount if you send me the last 8 digits of your chassis/VIN No. i will look on pug service box at exactly what is fitted to your car/engine,

quite often these engines have a plastic cover/guard over the alternator pulley,

as for your hub nut, i usually use a 4 foot scaffold tube slide all the way up/onto my 2 foot knuckle bar, do not bounce on it, but just use continuous pressure

[spider]

Slightly confused here.

Are you attempting to remove the alt / bracket ? If so why ? Headgasket ?

Bleeding the TUD5 cooling system is very very easy as there is usually only one single bleed point on the heater hose near the engine mounting. You can actually (slowly, its important) fill the system without it running until coolant free of bubbles comes out the bleed, then fill the bottle the rest of the way. Run it at at idle then fast idle (expansion bottle cap off) keeping an eye on the coolant level, You may wish to undo the bleed screw again to be sure its coming out (may have to increase rpm slightly to get it to come out and put bleed screw back whiles its coming out) beware of hot coolant / burns.

Looking I see a choice, either with or without Power Steering, I think just the bracket is different. That's odd really as the derv units do not have a belt driven PAS pump ( ! ) so no idea why.

The alt is a pig, I do vaguely remember doing one once. You need it from underneath. It just tight because of the radiator really.

You *have* removed the tensioner yes ? (two or three bolts and it falls off) for extra clearance ?

I can't remember if the alt comes out with the bracket attached (205D style really) or on its own. The huge big bolt you may not have to remove as there may not be clearance but loosing it should clear the alt rear mount which is enough I seem to recall its slotted.

I remember hearing skimming is not permitted on these heads, although I have never changed a gasket on one of them.

[spider]

Hmm. Typed another reply but Firefox had other ideas about it.

You'd have to do something about the pump too, as you will have to either swap your original pump to the 'new' engine or dearmour the 'new' one. This is a pig in situ however with the replacement engine 'unfitted' and sat on the floor etc it would not be a problem, clean clean clean is the watchword here.

A donor unit from the old shape one would not have said armoured pump as keypads and then later (97) transponders were fitted to all newer shape ones.

This is a minor concern however, regardless of which case you elect so do not worry about this at this point.

[Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur]

omg I've just realised like a week or two later that I've not acknowledged these helpful replies, Spider and Citronut. Having not checked the 'email me when replies are posted' box; I'd not realised that they were there.

My sincere apologies for my bad manners and equally sincere thanks for your time & trouble. Particular thanks for the 'do not bounce' and 'scaffold bar' advice Citronut and for the bleeding advice Spider. I now believe that the mysterious alternator 'cover shield' is the cam belt cover.

I do look in here sometimes and attempt to myself offer advice, occasionally doing so; but often it regards stuff about which I know nothing.

Spider: I attempted to remove the alternator to trace the oil trail upwards on a rainy & miserable boxing day morning; then finding myself unable to, removed the cam belt cover. Imagine my joy at finding that I needn't have faffed underneath it for an hour or so removing the tensioner (yes), aux belt and peering for ages at the bottom pulley thinking that its oil seal had expired; and that removing the three little 10mm's that hold the cam belt cover on would've been sufficient!

Yes, anticipating an engine change and knowing that a little detail such as this could be a huge pain in the backside. The diesel variants have a leccy PAS pump, most unusual; coz there's simply not room in the engine bay for a traditional one.

Gonna message you in a mo regarding that engine Citronut

NB: interesting link, this stuff is amazing. Click on each vehicle for lots of photos and detail. Also towards the end of the listing a stretched CX Limousine.
http://www.artcurial.com/en/asp/searchr ... le_no=2651+++" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Scroll down past the french text for English language descriptions

[citronut]

i think cars with the 1.5 TUD5 were not very common, there were more 1.4 TUD's i believe, even through to the Xsara car

[spider]

i think cars with the 1.5 TUD5 were not very common, there were more 1.4 TUD's i believe, even through to the Xsara car

I could be wrong Malcolm, please correct me if so.

But I seem recall we went from the (slightly fragile feeling) 1.4 TUD to the 1.5 TUD in 1995, then in 2000 it went to the TU5B (the one with the electronic advance pump, no inj sensor as its on the delivery pipe head and ECU on top of battery)*** At least all 5B's were Bosch.

1.4 had an adjustable pump I think as in the holes were slotted same as the XUD etc.

*** 5B (approx 2000 to 2003/4) in my personal opinion not brilliant, certainly a little slower (yes) than the normal TUD5. Interesting differences include no fast idle cable (the thermostat housing does not even have a plug there's no drilling) , just uses timing advance to increase cold idle a bit like later 406's. Reduced emissions in theory (all had cat, I know some later TUD5's had as well) I guess to meet the next emission standard same way they killed the XUD9 to replace it with the DW8 (a sad day)

I guess there are a few 1.4 diesels at a later age due to standing before registration, the same way I've seen at least one R reg 405 estate (yes really) and half a dozen P plate 205D's...

Random: Regarding PAS, a little digging shows some LHD (probably TU petrol) had a belt drive PAS pump. Not 100% sure why RHD did not best guess routing of the pipework may of been an issue.