Xantia 1.9TD screeching!!

[CitroJim]

Mike, yes, auxiliary belt.

First check is to make sure it's bone dry and not contaminated with LHM...

Adjustment: Slacken the eccentric tensioner and then using a square drive move the automatic tensioner so that it can be pinned in its most retracted position - you can use a small Allen key to pin it and you'll see the two pinning/index holes in the tensioner if you look down at it from the top.

Then adjust the eccentric to put sufficient pressure on the belt that it moves the automatic tensioner up just a tadette so that the locking pin can be slid out without any force being required.

If you can't achieve this condition then the belt is a tad too long or stretched and needs replacing.

It's well visualised in the Haynes BoL but beware - you need to look at the 2.1TD diagram to get the right picture for the later 1.9TD.

[DickieG]

If having adjusted the belt as Jim describes above it still screeches then the cause is often down to a worn crank pulley.

[CitroJim]

Mines not got an eccentric tensioner just a manual. It's a 95 SX with no air con.

Ahh, in that case the 1.9TD belt tensioning guide in the BoL is correct then.. Just tighten it until it doesn't flap along its longest run on idle or when revving. The belt needs to be well tight but only just tight enough to satisfy the above conditions and not too tight...

[citronut]

Mike if you have not worked it out the bolt No. 5703.52 adjusts the tensions the belt up as you unscrew it from the crank case,
as you can see the bolt head is top hat like and its the lip/rim of the bolt head it what pulls the lolypop ( as GSF refer to it ) tensioner downwards,

the other bolt trough the center of the pulley is just a locking bolt

[Hell Razor5543]

If you can get one onto it, an Aston Super Wrench is pretty good at gripping hold of rounded heads. I latched one onto a round steel bar, and then did a pull up without it moving (and I am not exactly lightweight!). Where are you located?

[Hell Razor5543]

I have a set of these, and the big one is 10" long, going down by 2" each (IIRC).

[myglaren]

A few on eBay Mike.

[Hell Razor5543]

The price has gone up since I bought my set. I got them new for £25 (about 10 years ago).

[myglaren]

There is a set there for £40.

[Hell Razor5543]

How about this then?;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/SUPER-SUPER-WRE ... per+Wrench" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[citronut]

Thanks for that Malc ... i still cant get it but that's just me being thick! Surely unscrewing it will loosen tension??

nop Mike as thes the rim of the allen or torx bolt that pulls the lolypop tensioner bracket downwards, which brings the tensioner roller/wheel tighter onto the belt,

That bolt is well knackered, looks like it's been a hex-socket at some time and now well rounded off so I need to get it off, any ideas cos it aint for budgin'

its not ment to be a hex headed bolt but an allen or torx bolt, and the outer of the head is/should be already round

[myglaren]

There is a set there for £40.

Collection only from Birmingham though ...

Most unfortunate.
I missed a lens for my Olympus as it was near MK, where we would normally have the CXM.
Unfortunately it was in Shropshire this weekend so nowhere near to collect (long detour anyway).

[RichardW]

Mike

If you can remove the bolts from the centre and 'stick' of the lollipop, then you can remove from the car, which will give better access to the adjusting bolt (although if it already been mullered, then it's probably seized in and will take some 'coaxing' out ) - although you might need to remove the bracket behind to get a proper run at getting it off. If the other bolts are rounded, then you will need a reverse spiral socket to undo them like these. It might be possible to remove the bracket with the tensioner still on, but can't remember what access is like to the mounting bolts.

Crank pulley bolt is 22mm and likely to be TIIIIIIIIGGGGHHHHTTT ! Impact driver really needed to get it off, although a spanner wedged against the subframe and the starter motor is often an effective alternative

[Old-Guy]

The Green Lady has the same tensioner arrangement. In my experience, it's essential to retension a new auxiliary belt. Sir Jim is correct (as usual) in saying that the trick with this earlier tensioner is to get it just tight enough no more. You'll see from my comments below that I've done the job a number of times over the last 7 years!

At the risk of repeating previous advice. Before attempting to tighten the tension by unscrewing the vertical adjustment bolt, it's ESSENTIAL to slightly slacken the two mounting/locking bolts - one inside the tensioner pulley and one below. The 'hole' in the pulley may have a plastic cap (Gates) which needs to be removed to get at the mounting bolt. When the tension has been confirmed as correct (you should be able to just twist the middle of the longest run of belt through 90° if you've got strong fingers) tighten the two mounting/locking bolts (18Nm IIRC) and then tighten the adjuster bolt another flat or two to make sure it slacken itself off.

All 3 of these bolts have 6mm internal hex-socket heads.

It's not a very satisfactory arrangement for a fairly long belt as there's no automatic compensation for the inevitable stretching of a new belt; probably that's why Citroen introduced the later more complex arrangement that incorporated a spring tensioner - though thats not a flawless design either!

[CitroJim]

Mike, the easiest way to check your crank pulley is to paint a line right across both parts below and above the rubber bit and then run the engine for a bit and see if the line remains unbroken which signifies the bonding between the inner and outer annuli is good. If the line is broken after a short run and stop of the engine the bonding has failed, resulting in the two halves moving independently of each other.

If that is the case the pulley needs to be swapped urgently. Otherwise if the line remains unbroken the pulley can live on. Another good thing is the pulley can then easily be visually checked at very frequent intervals by just visually checking the line is intact..