New member - Citroen Evasion starting problem

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jeremyprof
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New member - Citroen Evasion starting problem

Post by jeremyprof » 02 Sep 2014, 11:57

Hi. My name is Jez and I'm new to this forum.

I would appreciate some advice regarding an issue with my Evasion 2.0 CT I have issues starting it in the mornings and after a few hours if it has been stopped. It turns over well (battery is 75 %) but usually takes maybe 5 to 10 goes and stalls periodically too once it has started. Once running it drives really well and even ticks over OK at traffic lights etc without stalling. I can however here at regular intervals a clicking sound accompanied by a brief drop in tick over rpm (around 1000 down to 800 rpm). I'm thinking that the fuel pump needs replacing but any advice would be much appreciated?
Thanks, Jez

Richard_C
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Re: New member - Citroen Evasion starting problem

Post by Richard_C » 03 Sep 2014, 09:52

Can't help with the starting, mine is a diesel, sorry. The intermittent rev drop when running might just be when the aircon compressor cuts in, you will hear a click and the engine management takes a moment to adjust to the new load.

In the UK the Evasion was called the Synergie. I don't think the CT was sold here so the closest model would have been the 2.0 petrol SX.

Excellent vehicle but not many left now.

I suggest you edit your post to say Citron Synergie/Evasion petrol staring problems and someone on the forum might have one and be able to help you.

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Mandrake
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Re: New member - Citroen Evasion starting problem

Post by Mandrake » 03 Sep 2014, 11:22

On a petrol engine the most likely culprit is going to be the coolant temperature sensor - if the ECU doesn't know the engine is cold it won't provide cold start enrichment (eg the modern equivalent of choke) and won't raise the idle speed either, so it will really struggle to start and stall if you release the throttle. When the engine warms up it will run more or less OK.

Another possibility is the MAP sensor - some petrol engines will run "OK" when warmed up with a faulty MAP sensor by using engine RPM and TPS position to estimate manifold vacuum, but that usually doesn't work very well when cold so there is a tendency to fail to start without manually opening the throttle if the MAP sensor is faulty.

If it starts easily with the throttle manually opened a small amount it could also be a stuck ICV that is failing to open during initial startup. When cold a stuck closed ICV would not provide enough air to allow the engine to start (without throttle) or idle, but by the time it warms up the air flow may be sufficient to keep idling.

A faulty fuel pump is more likely to get worse when it heats up with use rather than better, so fuel pump would be further down my list of suspects.

Rather than just chucking parts at it though you really need to get it read on a Lexia - for this type of obvious fault it will probably pinpoint the problem for you, or at least give some direction.

Edit: on re-reading your post are you saying that the idle speed is 1000 rpm when fully warmed up ? sounds too high to me, most petrol 4 cylinders would idle at about 850 rpm. This may also indicate a seized ICV. (idle control valve)

If its seized in a partially open position (as the one in my new V6 was when I got it) then it may explain the symptoms - it's not able to open enough during a cold start thus difficult cold starting and stalling, but when fully warmed up its actually open too much causing a higher than normal idle speed. When seized the idle speed will also tend to change a lot with changes in accessory load such as fans cutting in and out, air con etc as the the ECU has no ability to regulate the idle speed.

So I would shift ICV to the top of my suspect list followed by coolant temp sensor then MAP sensor. All three of those should set a fault code in the ECU so I would definitely get it read for faults.

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jeremyprof
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Post by jeremyprof » 04 Sep 2014, 09:19

Thanks Richard and Mandrake for your replies. It's not starting at all now so I'm going to get it somehow to the local garage to get it plugged in and checked. I actually had to top up the coolant a couple of weeks ago after a longish drive.. If it is an issue with the coolant temp sensor how easy is it to change myself and what sort of cost am I looking at? Thanks once again. J