Hi!
I intend to replace rear spheres. After some topic reading I understand that correct order is:
1. Car in upper position+support.
2. Unscrew sphere 1/4 of a turn.[B)]
3. Car in lower position+unpress the system.
4. Replace the sphres.
5. "Citrobics"
6. Rear brakes bleeding.
I understand also that it is not necessary to provide all operation for each sphere-both spheres may be replaced in the same time.[:I]
Please, correct me if something wrong.
Thanks ahead.[:D]
Rear spheres-replace procedure
Moderator: RichardW
[Quote/]
"both spheres may be replaced in the same time."
That's correct & in fact is preferrable.
Alan S
P.S. When bleeding the rear brakes it will be found that upward pressure on the rear suspension will be necessary.
As a tip, I use an old scissor jack carefully placed under the disc rotor or suspension arm and pressure applied to allow for brake bleeding. I have found this to be much more convenient than trying to crawl under the car to find the bleeder. Before you start also get some penetrater around the bleeder, give it a sharp tap with a hammer before you start, use an 8 sided sockey of exactly the right size to loosen it, don't force the bleeder if it seems to be seized but instead, heat with an oxy or a pencil flame blowtorch.
As you may have gathered, the brakes can be the most troublesome part of the job if they haven't been done for a while & particularly if dust caps haven't been refitted.
"both spheres may be replaced in the same time."
That's correct & in fact is preferrable.
Alan S
P.S. When bleeding the rear brakes it will be found that upward pressure on the rear suspension will be necessary.
As a tip, I use an old scissor jack carefully placed under the disc rotor or suspension arm and pressure applied to allow for brake bleeding. I have found this to be much more convenient than trying to crawl under the car to find the bleeder. Before you start also get some penetrater around the bleeder, give it a sharp tap with a hammer before you start, use an 8 sided sockey of exactly the right size to loosen it, don't force the bleeder if it seems to be seized but instead, heat with an oxy or a pencil flame blowtorch.
As you may have gathered, the brakes can be the most troublesome part of the job if they haven't been done for a while & particularly if dust caps haven't been refitted.
-
Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
Cars with anti sink fitted (late 93 onwards) must be allowed to tick over for at least one minute after the suspension is lowered to minimum, AND before releasing the accumulator pressure via the 12mm bolt on the regulator.
Failure to observe this will result in pressure being trapped in the spheres as the anti sink valves close, not what you want to have happen.
I've never had any problem bleeding the rear brakes with suspension set at normal, and in any case this is not necessary when changing rear spheres, cit aerobics will take any air out that has got in at the cylinders well before it can make its way to the brake valve.
And if it ever becomes necessary to get the pressure up in the rear circuit for any reason the simplest way is to stick the suspension on high, then it gets maximum pressure and that can't be increased no matter what you do.
Dave
Failure to observe this will result in pressure being trapped in the spheres as the anti sink valves close, not what you want to have happen.
I've never had any problem bleeding the rear brakes with suspension set at normal, and in any case this is not necessary when changing rear spheres, cit aerobics will take any air out that has got in at the cylinders well before it can make its way to the brake valve.
And if it ever becomes necessary to get the pressure up in the rear circuit for any reason the simplest way is to stick the suspension on high, then it gets maximum pressure and that can't be increased no matter what you do.
Dave
-
ghostrider
- Posts: 360
- Joined: 05 Jan 2002, 01:10
- Location: United Kingdom
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- Contact:
The only thing I would add Mark, would be get a proper spere removel tool, all the other methods mentioned on the site work, but one day you will get a sphere that won't move without the right tool, in the end the cost is more than offset by the speed, lack of smashed knuckles, broken strap wrenches, stillsons etc etc
good luck
Pete
________
Glass Pipe
good luck
Pete
________
Glass Pipe
Last edited by ghostrider on 22 Feb 2011, 05:45, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks everybody for suggestions![:D]
Alan,
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">"both spheres may be replaced in the same time."
That's correct & in fact is preferrable.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Here I intended that both spheres may be replaced during the same car rising-e.a not necessary to provide all steps for each sphere. (Sorry for my English[V]). Is it correct?
Dave,thanks indeed for "ticking" tip.
Only after the topic sending I discovered full description of the procedure in "common problems"[:I]. It made clear a lot, but something I want to be sure. So, I updated my list (below) and bolded
new points. Please, comment.
1. Car in upper position+support. <b>Rear wheels "on air"-don't tuch a floor(?)<font color="green">Or stands are need for security only?</font id="green">.</b>
2. Unscrew <b>both</b> spheres 1/4 of a turn.
3. Car in lower position+unpress the system. <b>Car still on stand. Wheels don't tuch the floor-gap increased(?)</b> <b><font color="green">Ignore if stands are need for security only.</font id="green"></b> How i reach spheres without pit?[B)]
4. Replace <b>both</b> sphres.
<b>5. Reset suspension to normal ride height. Take off stands-put car on the floor.</b>
6. <b>Retight accumulator bleed screw, </b>"Citrobics". <b>Loosen accumulator bleed screw (<font color="blue">engine idle?</font id="blue">) if car don't rise.</b>
7. Rear brakes bleeding. <b>Upward load applied on wheel.</b> Anyway I have do it-forgot after LHM changing.
Sorry for too much details or wrong understanding-but all my experience is- accumulator sphere replacing and slight repair of front anti-sink valve.
Thanks ahead.[^]
Alan,
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">"both spheres may be replaced in the same time."
That's correct & in fact is preferrable.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Here I intended that both spheres may be replaced during the same car rising-e.a not necessary to provide all steps for each sphere. (Sorry for my English[V]). Is it correct?
Dave,thanks indeed for "ticking" tip.
Only after the topic sending I discovered full description of the procedure in "common problems"[:I]. It made clear a lot, but something I want to be sure. So, I updated my list (below) and bolded
new points. Please, comment.
1. Car in upper position+support. <b>Rear wheels "on air"-don't tuch a floor(?)<font color="green">Or stands are need for security only?</font id="green">.</b>
2. Unscrew <b>both</b> spheres 1/4 of a turn.
3. Car in lower position+unpress the system. <b>Car still on stand. Wheels don't tuch the floor-gap increased(?)</b> <b><font color="green">Ignore if stands are need for security only.</font id="green"></b> How i reach spheres without pit?[B)]
4. Replace <b>both</b> sphres.
<b>5. Reset suspension to normal ride height. Take off stands-put car on the floor.</b>
6. <b>Retight accumulator bleed screw, </b>"Citrobics". <b>Loosen accumulator bleed screw (<font color="blue">engine idle?</font id="blue">) if car don't rise.</b>
7. Rear brakes bleeding. <b>Upward load applied on wheel.</b> Anyway I have do it-forgot after LHM changing.
Sorry for too much details or wrong understanding-but all my experience is- accumulator sphere replacing and slight repair of front anti-sink valve.
Thanks ahead.[^]
Hi Mark -
Everything is allways complicated - as first try [8)]
1) Stands are definately needed for security - car don't HAVE to rest on stands - in case you use ramps to support car on the wheels. Likewise - the wheels don't HAVE to be in air.
It's really a personal safety issue + best possible work space.
Your option really - if wheels in air - or wheels resting on ramps - nothing to do with the work procedure itself.
2) Yes - both spheres of course - but I'll be a bit nitty on the 1/4 turn - I'd definately restrict to 1/8 turn - ensuring the high pressure oil does NOT suddenly start spraying out. The issue is to LOOSEN the spheres - for easy unwinding when pressure is removed.
3) Some confusion here. But it's a matter of choosing one of the 2 options in step 1) above. Of course you need adequate workspace under the rear to replace the spheres.
4) Yes - both spheres of course.
5) Yes.
6) Simply tighten pressure screw on regulator - then speed up a bit (don't race !) the engine to help the pump work faster.
7) Yes - car in heighest height setting - as this gives max possible system pressure to the rear brakes. Otherwise there would be VERY low rear brake pressure.
No matter what - you need to remove road wheels to gain access to the brake bleed screws.
Everything is allways complicated - as first try [8)]
1) Stands are definately needed for security - car don't HAVE to rest on stands - in case you use ramps to support car on the wheels. Likewise - the wheels don't HAVE to be in air.
It's really a personal safety issue + best possible work space.
Your option really - if wheels in air - or wheels resting on ramps - nothing to do with the work procedure itself.
2) Yes - both spheres of course - but I'll be a bit nitty on the 1/4 turn - I'd definately restrict to 1/8 turn - ensuring the high pressure oil does NOT suddenly start spraying out. The issue is to LOOSEN the spheres - for easy unwinding when pressure is removed.
3) Some confusion here. But it's a matter of choosing one of the 2 options in step 1) above. Of course you need adequate workspace under the rear to replace the spheres.
4) Yes - both spheres of course.
5) Yes.
6) Simply tighten pressure screw on regulator - then speed up a bit (don't race !) the engine to help the pump work faster.
7) Yes - car in heighest height setting - as this gives max possible system pressure to the rear brakes. Otherwise there would be VERY low rear brake pressure.
No matter what - you need to remove road wheels to gain access to the brake bleed screws.