1998 xantia 2.1 sx TD, a few questions

[foeism]

Been trying to work out why there's a little leak under the xantia so a few questions, and appreciate your help in advance.

First question, I riased the suspension to the highest setting and let it settle for a few minutes and checked the LHM window, although looking inside the reservior It didn't look that full.



I read that the brass top should be between the red marks, could this be the reason why there's fluid under the car like this?



Second question there looks to be a leak from here;


a bit closer


I've have a 73 VW bus, so never usually panic at the sign of oil, but I'm aware on my xantia, fluid leaks can cause brake and clutch failer, which does worry me.
The clutch and brake pedal are perfect, so just wanted some ressurance as to what to do do/check next.

Also I've carried out the citrobotics, and although a little slow it does go up and down fine and levels off nicely. I will need to change the front accumulator as a ticking noise every 12 seconds after it levels off, and the back sphers look like they could do with a change in the near future.

Thank you and let me know if there's specific pics I need to take......a picture says a thousands words and all that...

[myglaren]

It is the orange flying saucer that is the indicator and should be between the rings - IIRC on the high setting but uncertain of that.
The brass thing is the contact for low LHM level.

The other - it has been so long that I can't remember.

[foeism]

It is the orange flying saucer that is the indicator and should be between the rings - IIRC on the high setting but uncertain of that.
The brass thing is the contact for low LHM level.

The other - it has been so long that I can't remember.

Thanks

Thats what I thought, but wanted to know because too full maybe causing a leak eslewhere?

[foeism]

Hey thanks, errr stupid question time, how do I remove fluid?

[foeism]

Sounds like a good idea, but want to do it now before it gets dark.

[foeism]

Yeah your probably right. Driving from Cardiff to Bournemouth tomorrow, so probably won't have time

[myglaren]

A bike pump might do the job.

You may need a new bike pump by the time you've finished though. New washers at least.

Probably need to reverse the washers to get it to suck rather than blow of course.

[foeism]

Just out of curiosity, how full should the reservoir be when the correct amount lhm is in?

good idea about the pump too!

[foeism]

Just out of curiosity, how full should the reservoir be when the correct amount lhm is in?

good idea about the pump too!

I siphoned mine out recently (on low setting) and managed to get about 4.5-5 litres out of it .... could have been a dribble left i suppose.

That's just from the reservoir.

When did you last (over)top yours up?

Did it seem to coincide with your visible leaks?

Yes it seems to coincide, but only noticed the leak today

Well this is it, the last owner topped it up about three weeks ago just before i got it. I do recall he said he did it on the high setting, but mentioned the brass bit needs to be in the middle.
I only realised this when i noticed the leak and then searched on the net, to where the correct setting should be.

will this high fluid cause any damage?

[myglaren]

Won't cause any actual damage to the system but may slop out on steep inclines and with fast cornering.
Or on the lowest setting.
Will make a mess but only damage the tyres if it gets on them - and mess up your drive of course.

[addo]

You could always divert the regulator return into a jar.

[Hell Razor5543]

Or even bleed the brakes.

[myglaren]

You could always divert the regulator return into a jar.

Absolutely - simplest solution IMO - although James' suggestion is also a very good alternative as long as the bleed nipples don't shear off

[foeism]

Thanks gents,

Whatever the method I'll need to do this as soon as possible, and clean the underside engine bay....supported by axel stands.

I do remeber reading on here that to bleed the rear breaks the rear wheel needs to be taken off, as the bleed nipple is hard to access, but still have weight on the rear....

Where is regulator return?.......I will learn......!

[Xantidote]

Use the turkey baster, cheap, simple and effective!

Well, Superloopy's probably right that the turkey baster is the quickest solution, but as the OP has only had the car about 3 weeks, I like Hell Razor's idea of bleeding the brakes, as the OP will be able to observe any old black LHM in the ends of the brake lines, and also (maybe) get rid of any nitrogen that's leaked into the rear brakes from the rear spheres. Bleeding the brakes will obviously take a little longer, with the caveat (already highlighted) to be careful not to shear/damage the bleed nipples. I always smear a bit of copagrease around the nipples to minimise corrosion, and no problems in last 15 years.