Xantia front & rear is responsive but not soft

[Kumar9989]

Need some advice....Before repair....my Xantia give a very soft ride front & rear it was nice to drive.
After repair & Change
1.Anti Roll bar Bush
2.Top & G.Box Mounting
3. Change LHM oil & clean filter
After the above was done the ride was not the same
After reading more on this forum...I Regas the accumulator sphere still same...
Front & Rear can be press up & down is soft....but its ride is not the same.

[Hell Razor5543]

First, welcome to the forum. Now, what model of Xantia is it? Have you fully bled the brakes? Have you done a full Citrobics session (this is where you run the suspension from service high to service low several times, allowing enough time at each point for the suspension to settle down)? If you can post up the last 8 digits of the VIN somebody with the relevant access can find out what equipment your Xantia had when she left the factory, and offer better advise.

[Kumar9989]

Thanks James for the reply...... I only did the Citrobics session 2 time.... But did not bled the brakes...
Xantia 96 2.0 auto Patrol VIN: VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

[Hell Razor5543]

I always bleed the brakes whenever I work on the hydraulics system. While the steering and suspension are circulatory systems, the brakes dead end at the callipers. If air gets in there it could cause problems. I would also then do a Citrobics session, for at least 15 minutes (so take a book with you), as this helps to keep the suspension moving freely and allows any air to get back to the reservoir (where it can escape). If there is air in the suspension it can cause the ride to be harsh until it gets out (as it changes the compressibility of the LHM).

This following post covers spheres, hydraflush (which is a cleaning fluid for the Citroen LHM hydro-pneumatic system) and brake bleeding;

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... 22&t=24595" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Kumar9989]

Hi James
Should I do a Citrobics session, for at least 15 minutes after or before bleed the brakes
Thanks

[Hell Razor5543]

I would do it after you have bled the brakes, as you should then have got any air out from the brake circuits. Follow the instructions in that link I posted for bleeding the brakes properly, it does work.

EDIT, Something I do when I change the suspension fluid is to run the engine for 10 minutes with the pressure bolt on the regulator loose. I feel that this helps to get it around as much of the system as possible, moving any air out. Then I tighten the bolt, raise the suspension to full, bleed the brakes and then do a Citrobics run.

[Mandrake]

Kumar, did you disconnect the feed hose from the top of the hydraulic tank to the hydraulic pump when you cleaned the filter and replaced the LHM ?

If so its possible that you no longer have an air tight seal between the hose and the tank, which is allowing air bubbles to be drawn into the oil flowing into the hydraulic pump. This air can cause ride harshness. Double check this joint to make sure it is completely air tight and the clamp is tight. (Also check the other large diameter hoses with clamps going to the tank for air leaks - the small press fit ones don't matter though as they have very little flow)

When they age the rubber in the hose can become hard and brittle, moulding itself permanently to the shape of the spigot - if you don't position it back exactly where it was on the spigot it can be difficult to get a good air tight seal. The hose can also sometimes split.

Also after checking that make sure the system is thoroughly purged of air - when you first reconnect the pipes after having the filter etc out if you don't follow a proper bleeding process a lot of air will be let into the suspension.

Follow this procedure to thoroughly bleed the suspension:

1) Set the manual height lever on the centre console to the minimum height position, open the pressure regulator bleed screw by half a turn, then start the engine and let it idle for at least 3 minutes.

2) Close the pressure regulator bleed screw and allow the engine to keep idling for at least 3 minutes. (The car will drop during this period if it was already up)

3) Set the manual height lever to maximum and let it idle at least 3 minutes (or until one minute after the car has lifted to maximum height)

4) Lower the height to minimum and let it idle for at least 3 minutes.

5) Repeat step 3 and then lower the car to the normal driving height.